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'82 Seca 750 Brake fluid change

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by KrS14, Apr 20, 2010.

  1. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Ok i've been delayin this all day cause i wasn't quite sure how i was going to tackle it.

    I'm trying to flush the brake fluid and refill with new... but i can't see any way to get to the master cylinder unless i take the top triple tree off, which would be rediculous.

    So how do i get at it, i'd like to get it out so i can clean the return orifice etc.
     
  2. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    <RANT>

    Honestly, this braking system is the most IDIOTIC design ever. The only way to make sure all the old fluid is out is to take the MC off... and you have to disassemble Johnny-5 to get it out.... I'm goin home before i throw somethin...

    </RANT>
     
  3. Bushy

    Bushy Active Member

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    I'm not positive about this but...shouldn't you be able to pump out th fluid if you open th bleeders and just keep pumping or do it as if bleeding them and keep going till th master is empty. To refill th master I use a 20ml syringe(don't have to be 20) with a plastic tube on it. Yeah I know th setup is hated by many but once you learn to work with it it ain't so bad.
    On th can't get at th master..have you got a fairing.. low bars? No?...turn th bars fully left.
    Oops..I read your first post again...you have to take off the headlight and tie it back out of th way and th fog light, no need to touch th triple tree. On a positive note it's only about twice a decade. I'd recommend a pipe spanner for th master to splitter pipe nuts or you'll like it even less.
     
  4. FJBell

    FJBell Member

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    I'm with Bushy, just keep adding until what is coming out is nice and clear. I put a clear tube on the bleeder and run it into a clear bottle so I can watch progress. Careful not to spill or get on anything of value...and don't run master dry to avoid air in system.
     
  5. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    I can get to mine (also an '82 seca) and all I have to remove is the vinyl cover over the Handle bar clamps (two phillips head screws). Then you can get a 5 mm (i think) long allen key into the fill bolt and remove it. I also use a syringe, and cover the tank and fenders. Have plenty of rags on hand.

    I'm pretty sure if you suck the old fluid out through the bleed screws, and keep the MC full, you won't have to bleed the HIGHEST point in the brake system...the MC/steel brake line that is behind the headlight. The only reason to take the headlight off is to bleed that connection.
     
  6. Galamb

    Galamb Member

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    KrS14,
    removing those 2 Philips screws is a bit tricky. Use Kroil before you strip the heads.
    Suck up as much of the old break fluid from the master cylinder as you can. Replace it with new fluid. After that is just pump the handle, hold it in and release the bleeder. When all fluid stops coming out. Re-tighten it and pump the handle, hold. Release bleeder, tighten. Repeat till you have clean fluid coming out. Need a helper to hold the handle in while you bleed it.

    Don't let the master cylinder run empty while doing this.
     
  7. FJBell

    FJBell Member

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    IMHO I don't bother with tightening the bleeder each time...takes forever, I just make sure the master has fluid and carefully pump until clear fluid appears and there are no bubbles coming out of the clear tube that is connected to the bleeder with the other end submerged in brake fluid in a clear bottle. Then when handle is pulled in, tighten bleeder. Move the the other side and repeat. A long wingspan helps if your doing it by yourself...do the one furthest from the M/C first.
     
  8. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Ya i can understand how to bleed properly, that isn't the issue. I need to get the MC OUT to check the return port, i'm sure it hasn't been checked (or even the fluid replaced) in 28 years.

    I did have the rubber center piece out to adjust handlebars, but i didn't check to see if i could get to the retaining bolt that way (good idea) i'll check that out.

    I did try to drain the system by taking the anti-dive banjo's out, i got a little but not near what's in the system.

    That one bolt that holds the MC bracket is going to be the problem in doing all this me thinks. I should be able to take another crack at it tomorrow. So i'll plan on taking the headlight, instrument cluster, fog light, and anything else off, that's in the way. Hopefully it won't fight me too much to clean the whole system out.

    Today i get to figure out my MY bike had no power on the way home from Dez's :(

    EDIT: Thank you all for your input! The Service Supplement for the Seca doesn't say anything about how to remove the MC at all :(
     
  9. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    oh...haha...yeah I just meant that you can REFILL the RESERVOIR with it in place (and get to the plastic plug-bolt). You started out by saying that you wanted to change the fluid.

    If you want to do any "work" on the MC, the headlight has to come off (not the triple tree), and you might have to unmount the whole bracket (last time I did this I just rebuilt the WHOLE front brake system). The reservoir is just "fitted" into the MC, and rubber grommet is unavailable, so be careful removing it.
     
  10. FJBell

    FJBell Member

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    This procedure drains the system but your replacing the fluid as you do it, killing 2 birds with one stone. But yes, if you want to check the internals, the M/C will have to come out.
     
  11. gitbox

    gitbox Member

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    What is "Johnny-5" ?? A Canadian expression?
     
  12. schnarr

    schnarr Member

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    if ya break anything let me know i just swapped out to a bar mount master and SS lines with blocked off anti dive so all my original crap is just laying around lol but i HIGHLY recommend the swap so smooth and my old beast can stoppie with 2 fingers lol
     
  13. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    That's awesome scharr! thanks for the offer, i may try to get Dez to switch to bar mount. Would be a hell of a lot easier, but i'm one of the kind that likes to keep everything stock, and have it work like it did originally :) BUT if it comes to changing we may take up your offer.

    Gitbox: It's from the movie series "Short Circuit" I've just used it in my vocabulary since i was a kid ;)
     
  14. schnarr

    schnarr Member

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    but factory worked like crap too lol

    good luck let me know if ya need anything
     
  15. shooterhead

    shooterhead New Member

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    Just wanted to thank everyone for your info on brake fluid change. After looking at mine, Im still very afraid to get started on this. Cant even really see how to get the plastic fill screw off! Geez, what a mess! If anyone could give me any insights at all or even better a step by step procedure for a first timer, I'd sure appreciate it!
    Thanks again! Great forum thanks to you all!
     
  16. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Start a new thread asking for help with what you need Shooter :) This thread was from 2010 ;)
     

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