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82 650 seca jet kit

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by etg29, Sep 26, 2008.

  1. etg29

    etg29 Member

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    is a dyno jet kit worth it for 82 650 rj seca????
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Some people swear by those Dyno Jet Kits.
    Other's never stop swearing.

    If your Bike won't tune-up right ... as it is; without the Jet Kit ... you won't get a miracle fix and have the bike start running great with it.

    In my opinion, any Jet Kit that don't come with four new Emulsion Tubes and some Oversized Main AIR Jet's is just going to be aggravating any situation preventing the Bike from being tuned-up good without them. Simple.

    That's just my opinion.
    Only my opinion.
    Not an Official Opinion of the Site.

    But, it's fun to get the box in the Mail and put-in all the parts.
    It's what happens after you follow the directions and get all the parts in and see how it runs for you that can be discouraging, sometimes!
     
  3. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    And don't forget that part of "installing" that dynojet kit is drilling open the air bleed hole in the bottom of the vacuum piston.....and once that's done, there's no going back................(until you buy replacement diaphrams!)
     
  4. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    <NECRO>

    What would be the benefit of drilling that hole? Faster diaphragm lift?

    </NECRO

    Just curious.
     
  5. yamaman

    yamaman Member

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    i believe faster drop, I'm thinking the air jets lift the diaphram?
     
  6. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    The DynoJet kit is a pain. I've not been able to successfully get mine working right on the 750, and I've struggled with it for almost 3 years.

    I ended up closing up the drilled-out piston holes with JB weld, and then re-drilled them to original spec. I did not notice much of a change with them drilled out anyway.

    All I ended up using from the kit are some of the jets. I upped my pilots to 41 and mains to 122 to accommodate for a high-flow air filter and the Mac 4-1 exhaust. Everything else is stock.

    The needles do not work like you would expect them to. The profile is a bit different, and they can create dead spots in the throttle.

    I suppose if you have access to a dyno stand and an EGA, you could probably get that DynoJet kit working right. Otherwise it's just stabbing in the dark, over and over, until you get fed up with it and go back to stock.

    For the record, the kit came with the bike, so I did not spend any money on it... Just hours and hours of frustration, which could've been spent riding. :evil:

    Just my $0.02
     
  7. FJBell

    FJBell Member

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    IMHO the hole is drilled out to keep the slide from going up to fast. With pods on the carbs the increased flow of air causes the slides to rise faster then the rest of the carb would like it to...bigger hole slows this down so the other systems can catch up.
     
  8. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    After thinking about it more, i think your right Fj, makes total sense.
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    The applied Physics of the second Hole would do BOTH.

    Cause the Diaphragm Piston to Rise more rapidly in an attempt to deliver more Fuel to satisfy the Lean Condition.

    The Piston rises quicker BUT the FUEL doesn't get pulled-up out of the Emulsion Tube any quicker despite the Needle being lifted opening the source.

    The additional hole also allows the Piston to return quicker because the air returns to the Inside os the Diaphragm chamber more swiftly under the spring-loaded condition.

    To repair the Drilled-out Diaphragm Piston.
    Chuck a Brass Machine Screw into your Drill Bit.
    Flatten the Head and reduce the Outside Diameter with a "Chalked Ignition File"
    When the Head of the Screw is filed-down tp where its Outside Diameter FITS the Pistons Drilled-Out Inside Diameter ... leave the threaded shaft on the Screw ... Hold it in the Drilled-out Hole with Needle Nosed Pliers ... and "Sweat" the Screw Head in Place with Silver Solder.

    Dress the Bottom of the Piston with a Dremel cutting the Screw threaded-end away.
    Sand the Bottom with 400 and 600
     

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