Here's a new one for us chain-drive guys

This will be for everyone (like myself) who is resurrecting a chain-drive bike that sat for an extended period.

My '83 only has about 8K miles on it; the chain and sprockets LOOK fine. The chain was a bit rusty when I got it; I cleaned it thoroughly and lubed it and everything seemed fine.

As I've finally been able to start riding it again, I'm discovering a problem with the rear chain: it just keeps getting loose, within 150 miles it needs adjusting big time. Adjust it and it's loose again 100 miles down the road.

In addition to this, every time I lube it theres a section of it that keeps "bleeding red."

My theory: When the bike was parked for its last 7+ year layup, the chain was dry. Maybe it got wet, or maybe it was just the exposed or dry section, I don't know. But I strongly suspect the chain is badly rusted internally, at least in that one area, enough to compromise the surface of the pins and/or insides of the rollers, and cause accelerated wear.

I'm replacing it, parts on the way (thanks chacal.)

Thought I would pass this along as something to watch for, it's a new one on me.

 

I wondered about that on the chain for the 400 - pretty rusted. I plan to change the sprockets and chain when I get the title. Thanks for the heads up

 

Bill, are you going to stick with the stock sprocket config, or change sizes? (not that there are a lot of options) hehe

 

Right now I don't know enough about it. I understand the math but am not familiar with the trade offs....

 

Bill; In regard to gearing with a chain-drive bike, I find it's always best to start with the stock ratio; ride the bike, and decide if you want to change it. The difference one tooth makes on a rear sprocket IS noticeable in lower rpms at speed but not significantly lower. I re-geared my 500 Triumph slightly but I like the 550 Seca the way it came (the later 16/45.)

RUSTY CHAIN UPDATE:

It just gets better. Replaced the chain and sprockets (NOS black Yamaha rear) and the front sprocket was rust-pitted in the "pockets" where the rollers engage, as were the pins on the link I pushed out to break it.

Picked up an old bike with a rusty chain? New chain and sprocket time.

NOT expensive. Thanks, chacal.

 

I was lucky. My chain was covered in so much grease, gunk and (I'm not sure but I think) feces that it wasn't rusty at all! I took off the front and rear sprockets, thoroughly cleaned and inspected. They look almost new. The area behind the front sprocket cover was equally as filthy as the chain. The chain I first soaked in kerosene, scrubbed clean with a soft brush (was tempted to use my wife's toothbrush, we had an argument... but I was a gentleman and didn't)and soaked in 10W40 for a few days. But yeah, I had no rust to worry about.
Oh, and I think I've discovered the 400's 'been sitting for years chocolate milk in the crankcase' syndrome: the airbox inlet is up under the seat on the left side, angled up instead of down. The airbox has a hose connecting to the 'pcv' filter/valve thingy which (on my bike at least) is a rubber hose.

 

I had this happen with my 400 as well, but i already had brand new sprockets and chain. I think it's because i tend to bottom out the shock quite a bit cause i weight over 300 pounds

I've got the preload cranked up, but it still bottoms out every now and then on a nasty bump.

I have to tighten my chain usually after every tank or two of gas cause it gets pretty floppy. Usually a couple full turns on the screw will get it back in shape. BUT i do have to leave it looser than 1 inch of full play, just cause i KNOW it's gunna stretch back.

I went from the stock 16/35 to 17/35, i dropped about 500 rpm when in top gear. Power didn't feel any different.

 

Please let us know if the new chain and sprockets fixes the problem. I have the same problem but my chain is not and never has been rusty.

 

I can tell you this: On my '81 550, which has a relatively new chain (half-life or so) I found the "factory spec" to simply be a tad too tight. If I adjust to 35-40mm, it will loosen up right away; if I set it to 45-50mm it stays that way for quite a while.

 

*shameless BUMP*

I've seen a few posts recently from guys who have just picked up a 550 that's been sitting for a while, and I figured I would resurrect this thread.

If the bike was parked with a poorly-lubed chain, it is probably rusted INTERNALLY and will wear rapidly or fail. Lubricating now won't help pins and rollers that have already been damaged.

I cut the one I pulled off apart to investigate, and the pins were all rusted away inside the rollers.

If you just got ahold of a chain-drive bike, you might want to plan on a new chain and sprockets. Cheap insurance, and you're going to have the rear wheel off anyway to check the brake shoes.

 

When I used to have chain drive bikes (both of mine are shaft drive now)
I used to spray the chain down with penetrating oil, and drop it in a pail of motor oil for a couple weeks during the off season. It usually comes out nice and lose and worked like a new one.
I guess it all depends how far gone they are. If they are too rusty, you should replace it and be done with it.

 

Hmmmm guess it's about time for a new chain and sprockets too, mines not holding tension well either......

I need to pick up a 2nd bike so I can give the old girl the attention she needs, hard to do when it's your daily ride...

 

My chain has stretched like mad since i bought it new. DID w/master link non o-ring.

 

Is the 550 a non "o"ring chain model?

 

well you can get an o ring or x ring chain for any bike now a days. on my last 2 bikes, my cbr and my xj one of the first things i did was replace the drive chain. neither was rusted but i just wont trust such an important and relatively cheap part to the word of a PO. maybe i should use kroil as chain lube on my standard chain from now on

 

The standard chain that came on the 550s was NOT an o-ring chain.

Kroil, magical substance that it is, isn't sufficient as a chain lube. Personally, I prefer PJ1 Blue Label; I've used it for years.

 

I need to change mine as well... what would be my options??
The manual says something like "50HDSS100L" but that's the OEM chain.
I can't seem to find an aftermarket equivalent cause i'm not sure what the numbers mean???

 

ive got a chain drive kawasaki that i adjust the chain about every 200-250 mile(non-o-ring) and lube every 100-150(a tank of gas usually)

from what i understand this is fairly natural for a well maintained standard chain.

 

Does no one run a Scott oiler or something similar?

 

Check chacal's catalog under the listings for the 550s. I'm pretty sure your chain is the same, just a different number of links. His listing contains a lot of information about the different types of chains available.

Replace both sprockets too, it's easy and inexpensive.

Kickaha; ---they've never really caught on here; I honestly think it's because a very large percentage of the chain-drive demographic here aren't long-distance riders; or at least that's the perception.

 

Thanks Bigfitz!!