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My XJ750 wont rev up? HELP?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by XJbandit88, Apr 27, 2010.

  1. XJbandit88

    XJbandit88 New Member

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    So i ride my bike year round and since i got it i never had a problem. One day my bike wouldnt rev past idle. I took the slides out and sure enough there was acouple holes in the diaphrams. replaced the diaphrams and the bike still isn't reving past idle. now when i start it up i can some times get it to rev up but as soon as i load the bike(or start to ride it) it goes back to not wanting to rev up and after that i cant rev it up no matter what i try. Ive been through the carbs multiple times. Please any suggestions?
     
  2. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Broken or stuck throttle cable?
     
  3. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Throttle cable and choke cable reversed?
     
  4. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    Check to see if your cable has slipped off the throttle tube?
     
  5. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    How much did you pay for the diaphragms? Those mofo's are expensive!
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    If you cant get the Engine to Rev with the Throttles Open.

    Plugged Emulsion Tubes
    Diaphragm Pistons Sticking Closed
    Main Jets Plugged

    Do a "Clunk Test"

    Answer this question ... honestly!

    When was the last time the Carbs were 100% COMPLETELY Cleaned and Overhauled?
     
  7. XJbandit88

    XJbandit88 New Member

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    my cables aren't the issue, they are lubed up and in the right spot. To answer your question the diaphrams didn't cost me a thing. I know online new slides and diaphrams are $150-270 ea. i cant afford that. I had carbs off an xj700 '86, the slides at the base (in the venturi) are curved and more open vs the flat bottom of my 750 slides. But the slide diameter and diaphrams are the same. so i CAREFULLY took a hot "xacto" knife and removed the lock rings and swapped diaphrams. the rubber on the "new" diaphrams is in way better condition. the lock rings are still holding pressure so they're not leaking through there. I dont think. I cleaned my carbs while i was doing the slides. carb clean and pressurized air.
     
  8. XJbandit88

    XJbandit88 New Member

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    Ill go through them one more time to make sure the main circuit is clear and the slides are moving freely and get back to you all. thanks for the direction.
     
  9. Lou627

    Lou627 Member

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    Spray carb cleaner through the enrichment circuit (the small hole in the bottom of your float bowl) and see if a steady stream comes out the other end at the top (where the emulsion tube enters). If not, run a high E guitar string through it to open the passage.

    The red tube that comes with the carb cleaner is not thin enough to fit snugly in the circuit. Modifiy it. Have a friend hold a lit lighter, hold both ends of the straw, place it above the flame and stretch slowly it as it heats (without pulling it apart). Let cool and cut with an exacto knife so you have a tapered tip straw. Use this for your circuit cleaning (and all your carb cleaining needs).
     
  10. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Caution! "See" if the steady stream comes out the other end with a pair of goggles on (I'd recommend you get some even over safety glasses). You do want to be able to "see" after you get the circuit clean :twisted: Also, keep you mouth closed. When they are clean, the carb cleaner stream is pretty straight and strong
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    After I probe the Brass Syphon Tube with a Guitar String, ... I "Pressure Flush" it.

    Take a Small Diameter piece of Heat Shrink and shrink it on to the END of a Carb Cleaner RED TUBE, ... So that the Heat Shrink is snug on the RED Tube --> But NOT Heated and Shrunk passed the end of the Red Tube.

    Now, you can Slip the UNSHRUNK Section of Heat Shrink OVER the Siphon Tube and have the Carb Cleaner shooting right in the Brass Tube when you give it a blast of the Cleaner.
     

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