1982 Maxim 750 Custom Racer Project

MOTORCYCLE IN QUESTION: 1982 Yamaha Maxim 750 (Stock 45k miles)

THE PROJECT: Turn the bike into a reliable and practical daily driver/custom racer style, possibly some power upgrades but mostly cosmetic.

THE BUDGET: $1,000

THE DEADLINE: The first Sunday in October.

THE CATCH: I have never worked on a motorcycle in my life. My brother says "It will never run again."

THE BET: The project has to be completed on budget, on deadline and make the SLIMEY CRUD RUN the first Sunday in October. A steak dinner with all the fixins and my pride is riding on this.

THE PLEA: I have seen what some of the guys on this site have done. I am blown away and inspired. I am asking for all the input I can get. I have some basic hand tools and no automotive knowledge. Thanks.

 

why do you want to spend all summer working on the bike rather than riding it? pull the backrest off and windshirld... and you'll have a decent looking bike to ride around on.

if you do pull off that luggage rack, interested in selling it?

 

This is what I've done so far....

 

I can't ride for another 6 to 8 weeks anyway due to a rotator cuff surgery. It seems when I'm in the garage I hear a bike going down the highway every 5 minutes rubbing it in. Shoot me a price and and rack is yours, it wont fit now, plus that will help the budget a little.

 

Are you talking cafe build or just something with a little race inspired

 

Lookin good so far buddy!!! Keep the updates comin.

 

Something race inspired with a cafe style seat that at least has a small pad on the back of a semi boat tail so I can take the wife fo a ride now and then.

 

FIRST PROBLEM: I can't get the handlebars off.

 

BRAIN STORMING....

 

PULLING MOTOR TODAY: I will be pulling the motor this afternoon, not sure where to start. I don't have a manual and I don't have time to order one and have it today. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great!

 

what you do is you lay the bike on its side then life the frame off the motor.. that's what everyone says is the easiest...

 

Diggin the seat idea. The motor is easy, remove your carbs first, disconnect any wiring running to motor ( make sure you label them, since you don't have a manual this will make it easier to put back together, Pull back the shaft boot and remove the four bolts connecting the shaft and motor, remove all the motor mount bolts and she is free. You may have to remove the oil filter to get the motor out, I did.

 

MOTORS OUT! We took your advise Disconnected the carburetor, the electrical, pulled back the boot and disconnected the 4 bolts to the rear, removed mounting bolts, put a blanket on the floor and lifted the bike off the frame. We could never had done it without you (even if it took us 3 hours to do). Great big thanks!

 

What, ... in the name of all that's Good and Holy ... is Old Style doing ... on-ice, in the cooler???

I don't think you're supposed to cool it and drink that stuff.
I think that is supposed to be used at room temperature to take the rust of Anchor Chains on Mothballed battleships!

Must have been on sale!

 

Glad you got it out, see you still got the bars on though, wish I could help you with that one, but I have no clue. Mine had already been replaced with euro bars when I got it.

 

It was on sale $15 a case! All 5 of us looked at those damn handlebars but there they sit. I just don't get it. Melting the aluminum off with the torch was mentioned.

 

This might help, it comes straight from the manual. It is for vertical and horizontal adjustment, but if you can get to this point you might be able to figure out how to get them off. 1. VERTICAL- To effect adjustment, remove the two wiring finisher plates from the outer faces of the risers, each being secured by two cross-headed screws. Prise out the blanking plugs which hide the stop bolts, then slacken them and the two pinch bolts. (THIS SHOULD ALLOW YOU TO MOVE THE BARS UP AND DOWN) 2.HORIZONTAL- Remove the handlebar cover and top bolt blanking plugs, then slacken the top bolts and pinch bolts. (THIS SHOULD ALLOW YOU TO TURN THEM). IF THIS DOESN'T HELP, TAKE A HACKSAW TO THEM

 

STUPID BLANKING PLUGS: Bars are off! I owe ya Tank. I'm having problems with the camera, hopefully I'll have updated pics tonight.

 

NO PROBLEM, GLAD IT HELPED

 

UPDATED PIC: I am starting to mock up (or f#@k up) the frame.

 

I THINK I'M GETTING THE VISION: What a nightmare trying to figure out the seat. I finally got it the way I want it and I noticed the pan is too close to the tire. I heard 11" sportster shocks will fit this bike. Anybody heard anything on that? Also, does anyone know if you can lower the front shocks. (I'm only 5'6", I need all the help I can get.) Here are some updated pics.

 

Have read on here that sportster shocks will fit. No personal experience. I got a set of Suzuki Savage shocks for mine and they work GREAT. Dropped the rear a little over 2 1/2"...

skillet

 

Sweet! Did you get a certain year and do you remember how much you paid?

 

No certain year (Suzuki Savage 650). Little under $40 ($30 plus shipping). After looking for a while, that's pretty much the going price. Ask for condition. The set I got look factory NEW. I am real happy with 'em...

skillet

 

Cool thanks, when your shocks are compressed while driving, does the tire go past the frame at all? I think that's the option I'll take as long as the tire don't hit my seat pan and it doesn't affect the drive shaft.

 

FINAL SEAT PAN DONE! (ALMOST): Made the seat pan and the fender at work out of 16 g steel. I welded the fender to the frame, I still need to take a file to the fender then WooHoo BONDO. I am hoping to have the frame painted by this weekend. I plan on taking the seat pan in to have it upholstered. I need to be able to give my wife a ride so I need to have some kind of pad on the fender. I want it to look like a solo seat but function like a double. Any Ideas on the rear pad or tips on the bodywork or spray paint?

 

RE: seat design - unless you are also going to construct forward controls I'd recommend that you construct the seat so the height is the same as your pants inseam measurement. Reason - if too low, your knees will be bent at a very uncomfortable angle. The inseam height wil also let you flatfoot the bike at a stop.

Also - make sure the seat is level when you sit on it (not sloped forward or rearward), tapers to (approx) tank width at the front and out to your butt size at the rear. This way it will be constructed to support your specific anatomy. Depending on how your tail bone is constructed, you might also want to create a relief in the back of the seat (think of a "heart" shape) to keep pressure off the tail bone. Go to a good bicycle shop to see what kinds of seats are available for long-distance riders to get ideas. Padding can be layers of closed cell camping foam or garden kneeling pads glued with contact cement and shaped with an electric carving knife. When you get the shape that feels best you can take it to a boat upholstery shop to have it covered in marine vinyl.

Not sure what I'd recommend for your SO pad since you already have a steel version welded in - definitely provide some substantial base and grips. Maybe a removable HD solo seat that mounts to the steel tail?

 

RE: seat design - unless you are also going to construct forward controls I'd recommend that you construct the seat so the height is the same as your pants inseam measurement. Reason - if too low, your knees will be bent at a very uncomfortable angle. The inseam height wil also let you flatfoot the bike at a stop.

Also - make sure the seat is level when you sit on it (not sloped forward or rearward), tapers to (approx) tank width at the front and out to your butt size at the rear. This way it will be constructed to support your specific anatomy. Depending on how your tail bone is constructed, you might also want to create a relief in the back of the seat (think of a "heart" shape) to keep pressure off the tail bone. Go to a good bicycle shop to see what kinds of seats are available for long-distance riders to get ideas. Padding can be layers of closed cell camping foam or garden kneeling pads glued with contact cement and shaped with an electric carving knife. When you get the shape that feels best you can take it to a boat upholstery shop to have it covered in marine vinyl.

Not sure what I'd recommend for your SO pad since you already have a steel version welded in - definitely provide some substantial base and grips. Maybe a removable HD solo seat that mounts to the steel tail?

 

If you wifes not going to riding with you alot you could just get a pillon pad that has the suction cups. That way you can put it on when she rides and take it off when it's just you. I had one that had a tab in the front so you could bolt it down for added security, worked well. They are usually around 100 though.

 

Sweet! Thanks Tank. I think I'll try to find one of those, that sounds like the ticket. By the way bondo is on fender. I sanded fender with 80 grit, cleaned with paint prep, added one coat of body filler, block sanded with 150 grit, sprayed with self etching primer, added one coat of glazing & spotting putty, block sanded with 380 grit, sprayed one more coat of primer, then......putty,sand,paint prep,primer,putty sandpaint prep,primer,putty,sand,paint prep,primer and should do at least one more but I'm starting to get tired of sanding. He are some pics......

 

Great tip on the bike shop idea Zap! I also didn't know to use marine vinyl.