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tuning for high end power with pods

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by mestnii, May 14, 2010.

  1. mestnii

    mestnii Member

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    Ok, this isn't a thread about "to pod or not." I've podded (if that's a word) and aim to keep them despite the drawbacks.

    I've read a whole bunch of things about tuning for pods, but found very little info about tuning for a specific band range. Right now, the bike runs rich all the time, and has amazing power between 1k and 6k RPM. After 6k RPM the engine gets flooded with fuel and stumbles, so I have to baby the throttle.

    I want to make a trade and have crappy power at below 3k - 3.5k in a tradeoff for it running like scolded dog in between 3.5k and red line. Now, is this an issue with changing out the main jets? Typically everyone says they need to be increased in size for the extra air flow, but I'm still real rich so ... maybe they need to be decreased?

    In short, I want a usable powerband in between 3.5k - 9k, instead of 1k - 6k. How is this possible? People with pods care to chime in?
     
  2. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

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    3.5K to 9K is a pretty broad range and is the pilot / needle / main jet territory.

    Are you SURE it's running rich up top and not lean??

    Seeing as it runs OK up to 6K, start with changing the main jet and see how that goes. If you go smaller and it's worse, then you know it's lean, not rich.
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You can figure that out from doing some spark plug reading.
     
  4. mestnii

    mestnii Member

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    Yea, it's running rich at that range. I ride around and keep it at 6k for 15-20 mins and the plugs come out black (except for #3, which looks great).

    Also the whole things just starts to bog as it gets closer to 6k giving it WOT even caused it to stall out, making it very ineffective at climbing hills unless in first gear only.
     
  5. mestnii

    mestnii Member

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    Oh, right, forgot to add this in: looks like I'll be getting some smaller size pilots soon and see how she does with those.

    It used to bog down closer to 5k and was really quite unrideable, but i put in new float valves and the difference was incredible.
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I doubt its actually RICH that's Blackening the Plugs.

    The Problem is more likely that the QUANTITY of FUEL leaving the TOP of the EMULSION Tube ... is NOT sufficiently Atomized to provide a "Clean Burn"

    The Situation during Mid-Range and W-O-T is that the Volume of INTAKE Air passing over the Emulsion Tube has no form and there is insufficient reduction of PRESSURE to have MAIN AIR be drawn into the Turbulence.

    The resulting FUEL which does exit the E-Tube is NOT atomized.
    The Mixture is LEAN
    BUT, ...
    The QUANTITY of FUEL that does get drawn-in the Cylinder is in droplets too large to for a POWERFUL Ignition.

    The AIR needs the Shape and Speed provided by being drawn through a Velocity Stack.
     
  7. darkfibre

    darkfibre Member

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    If you changed the float valves and had a big improvement, it sounds like you actually have carb problems.

    I have seen people who have a bike running poorly and then change to pods and have all sorts of fun with jets.

    Was the bike running perfectly before the change to pods? Probably not if the float valves were stuffed.

    Get the basic tune right first (plugs leads valves etc).

    If all the carbs are jetted the same and one carb is burning right, you either have one or three carbs with problems.

    Try to get it burning evenly across all 4 before jet changes is my suggestion
     

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