1st month anniversary

So I have my 750 maxim for about a month now and I LOVE IT!!!
A cruiser with a sport engine, what's not to love Plus it'll be a work in progress to keep me bussy for.... like FOREVER
So far fixed a few electrical probs, changed oils and some minor stuff(ie. PO was running resistor caps plus resitor sparks.)
Tires and brakes are on the list.
Having no experience what so ever some Q's might look kinda simplistic, but I figured the only stupid Q's are the ones not asked.

1. Compression test. Haynes doesn't give a how to, some googling came up with: disconnect TCI, disconnect fuel, full throttle, press starter for 4/5 cranks. And do it again with a spoon of oil, diff between wet and dry should be minimal.
Sounds about right or...? And disconnecting fuel; will putting pet cock on ON (vac operated) and disconnect Vac hose cut it?(empty carbs)
And haynes doesn't give me the specs either, it specifically states UK models only :roll: I'm making an "educated" guess of 150 psi with a 15 diff up or down and between any 2 carbs?

2. Speedo problems, an extended search came with slow speedos but mine's running too fast, my wife in the car going 60 (or so she says ) me going 80-90. All the sollutions I found make sense for slow running speedos, not so much for fast running ones and the only thing I can come up with is the PO installed the wrong speedo gear. Any Ideas?
*EDIT* Before some1 asks, I'm running stock wheel and tire, not quite stock but 110/90x19 shouldn't matter I think.

3. No 2 isn't that much of a biggy since the instrument box will going anyways. Which leads me to aftermarket tachs. Still thinking about Acewell or Mikesxs. Will either take the wasted spark into account?

*EDIT* Looks like the xs has a wasted spark as well, so one from mikesxs should work.

Time to go play outside, the sun's shinning, the neighbours are awake, time to go hunt down a vacuum leak.
Thanks in advance!
paul

 

I had the opposite prob with my speedo I was going 65 my buddy was going 90 to keep pace. I was just blowing by cars. I bought an aftermarket speedo for I think 80 bones and it had LED indicator lights for oil, high beam, turn signal, and neutral. Found a site might be able to find a better deal. You'll need the 2240:60 ratio I believe. They are hard to find now I guess. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... medium=cse Copy this link they are 95 bones now. Found a Procycle autometer tach on Ebay for 90 bones, making a mount currently.

 

Yah I found lots of info on slow reading speedo's but no solutions or ideas on a fast running one. Seems to me if things wear down it'll start giving a slower speed not a faster one. :?
Still undecided on speedo, the link you provided are the same ones on mikesxs, they go for $65. It's gonna be either one of those or an Acewell.
Nice score on the Procycle tach, all I could find was well over $150.
But even than, ain't got the tools, space or the knowledge for that matter to fab a decent housing.
Actually I might just run no tach as I think about it.

 

Quick update with questions solved but more popping up, lol.

Obviously the compr. tester came with a manual. DUH
The only thing is the manual said with bad rings the compr. wouldn't increase over the course of the 5 cranks, while all over the net peeps are suggesting doing a dry and wet test and "guestimate" the shape of rings according to that. Anyhow, untill further notice i'll just leave it be with a dry test.
They came out 120 across all cylinders, nicely increasing with each crank.
Another DUH moment; so pre-occupied with my first compr. test i forgot to hold open the throttle. :roll: which gave the same results except for cyl.4 with only 105. :?

Another thing, I did a plug chop at 1050(idle, no load), 3000, and 5000rpms and came up with 2 and 4 being being only half coloured. I guess a plug being half white, half black doesn't count as an overall tan
Any thoughts on the half/half colour?
I did read a post a while back but for the life of ... I can't find it anymore. But I'm pretty sure that plug chop wasn't preformed properly for some reason. Not saying I did an excelent job! :wink:

Found the air leak; intake manifold gasket cyl 1. Not so cool! That's the only one the bolts will break without a doubt, considering what I've read on here. So I think I'll just close it up with rtv sealant for now and leave it be untill winter.

On to my first attempt of removing the carbs. :twisted:

 

Hmmm, 76 views one reply? But then again only 5 members online vs 28 visitors. And I keep forgetting 75% or so of the world is in a diff. time zone 8O and the others have a bike that runs and are cruisin in the sun. :lol:
Any word on my excecution of the compr. test? and if anyone has the exact specs for an 82 750 maxim that would be great.

Anyways, carbs are off the bike!
Not hardly as much trouble as I thought it was going to be, knock on wood.
Turned the "study" into a shop and will start tackeling the carbs tomorrow.

 

The way to get the highest (and most accurate) numbers is to "boost" the battery with a 2/10 amp charger, all 4 plugs out, throttle held open, ignition defeated.

I get 147-149 's and never added oil.

When adding oil to check for bad rings, try to use exactly the same amount. If compression does NOT improve it's a burnt valve, or a "tight" valve- - did you check your valve clearances yet??

 

Thanks for responds TIMEtoRIDE.
I didn't use a charger, but the bat. was fully charged, should be ok for 20 cranks I guess, although it would be nice to have a steady flow of voltage to the starter.
I must also admit that the engine was just "hand warm" not at operating temp. So that should improve my compr. readings as well.
Is there a reason to "defeat ignition" other than to prevent arcing of the spark?

Ok now I'm confused do you use oil to check for bad rings or bad valves?
Or you mean when compr. doesn't improve with each crank it's a bad/tight valve and when the end reading is much higher wet vs dry it's bad rings?
Haven't checked my valve clearances yet, valve cover gasket and shim tool is on it's way.
Thanks again!

 

Oil will not seal up a warped valve, but will help seal up your 4 rings.

Leaving plug wires off while cranking can overload the coils, causing them to spark to ground somehow, possibly damaging them.

 

K, thanks.

While I'm at it, what's the diff. between valve shims and pads. A lot of posts seem to use them interchangeably, like in the "AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics" topic, while Chacal's catalog makes a clear distinction between them?

And again, anyone has the compression specs for 82 750 maxim?

 

Your actual numbers will vary with your specific gauge's accuracy and the condition of your starter and battery, which is why you would want to boost the battery and pull all 4 plugs. (and open throttle).

The "low" end of the factory specs was 120 ?? IIRC.

What you are hoping to find are very close numbers- - 149, 147, 149, 145
At around 90 PSI that hole won't even fire at idle.
A 135 would look suspicious, maybe a valve too tight, something to keep an eye on, but nothing to keep you from riding.