Starting problems

I'm a new bike owner and rider. I bought an '81 xj550 seca and was super stoked on it. It ran great when test driving it, though it had to be jump started.

Got it home and had to jump start it again, did that a couple times and it worked fine. So, I thought it might be the battery. Took it out and charged it. Got it to start once with that, but then the next day nothing. So, I bought a new battery. Now, it's still doing the same thing when trying to start it. Sometimes, there is a clicking sound and the oil light comes on. Sometimes, there is no sound with the oil light coming on. And, very, very seldomly, it will turn over, and, even seem like it's almost going to start, but does not.

I've seen some other discussions about similar issues. I'm super new to this and don't know a ton about mechanics . . . can anyone help me in basic terms?

Thanks.

 

its sounds like you might have a short somewhere that is draining your battery. It could even be a loose connection on your battery and you are getting resistance.

 

The new battery didn't get hooked up until just before I tried starting it, so there wouldn't have been time for it to have drained. And, I replaced the connectors from the bike to the battery because the old ones were corroded . . . And, it doesn't start with a jump anymore.

 

Check the starter solenoid. Then check the starter motor. Does the 550 have the side stand saftey switch? It might be keeping the solenoid off. The most common cause for a battery that drains overnight is a bad rectifier for the alternator.

 

my 550 start button is very touchy. Not sure if that is common but that could also be it. do you have lights?

 

1981 ..., huh?

You should check the Alternator Brushes for Length specs.

You should "Clean-out" or "Overhaul" the Starter.
Flush-out carbon dust from the Commutator.
Check the Starter Brushes length, too.

Bikes are no fun if you have to push them to make them start.

My best advice to you is for you to purchase a Factory Workshop Manual for your Bike.
You may not be "Mechanical"
Someone you know who is willing to help you, ... may be.
Having the information needed to perform maintenance and facilitate repairs is absolutely invaluable.

Yamaha Motors Publications:
1981 XJ550H Service Manual
LIT-11616-XJ-50

 

I've looked online to find the service manual . . . am I looking at around $80 or is there somewhere else I need to look? I've got a clymer manual for the bike at this point, on loan from the library.

 

You don't think of it in terms of how much it costs.

You think of it in terms of how much you'll SAVE.

 

did you test the solenoid? You didn't say your new battery was dead... just that when installed you still had the same problem. To me it sounds like a bad solenoid. It will either click repeatedly like the sound of a dead battery in a car. It might not do anything at all. It might have a very faint single click when you hit the button, then again when you let go of the button. And sometimes it might even work.
Test the solenoid by taking a small screwdriver and touching it to both of the posts. The starter should turn. Just do it for a sec to see if the starter turns.

The solenoid is under the seat behind the right side cover. It is directly to the upper left of the battery. Look at the clymer for where it is and what it looks like. The two post are what the cables are attached to by the same type of set up as what attaches the cables to your battery.
To do the test you do not need to detach anything. Just take a key or screw driver and touch it to the two posts. Make sure your bike is in neutral. I always unplug the spark-plug wires from the plugs just in case... any time I do anything.

Again, if when you place the key or screwdriver across the two posts you are bypassing the stuff inside the solenoid and creating a direct line of current from the battery to the starter. The starter will turn if there is juice in the battery and the solenoid is bad. If that is the case, it is easier to replace than the battery and cheaper.

 

i second chuckles on the solenoid.

check this out:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=7 ... rcuit.html

i just went through this on my bike. i replaced the start button and made sure everything was solid there. i heard clicking, but no starter. pulled the starter and tested. so, i replaced my starter. everything worked for a bit, but then on day, nothing. i bypassed the solenoid and it worked. so, replaced the solenoid. everything worked. then one day, nothing. i had a new battery, but realized that with starting it, testing lights, etc. that my battery was low and needed a little recharge. then, everything worked again.

as said on this site, these batteries do need a pretty full charge to make things start right. also, not sure on your bike, but on mine as soon as the starter spins the head light comes on. you have to turn the key off to get the light to turn off. if the light stays on and your battery is already weak, it can further hinder your starting efforts.

 

just a note that it's always a good idea to make sure the plug wires are either connected to the installed plugs or pull the plugs/wires and make sure the plugs are touching the engine. and don't quote me on this but i think the starter will still turn with the Killswitch Engaged )). i believe letting spark build up without a place to go is hard on the coils and the tci. wouldn't want anyone to inadvertently damage another functioning ignition system, there are already enough of us struggling to get ours working!

 

So, I tried to bypass the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and only heard a faint humming sound from the starter. Nothing else happened, does this mean that the starter is bad and needs to be overhauled?

 

Maybe, ... maybe not.

It might be the Commutator is filthy with Carbon Dust.
That will make it not spin.

That set's-up the possibility of that Starter needing Brushes.

Overhauling the Starter is a couple of hours work.
This is a problem with real old STARTERS.
The Starter needs a 100% -- BOTH Ends -- Overhaul and Cleaning.

I think you'll find the Planet Gears and everything on that end is caked with old, dead, grease.
You need to return this end to:
Clean and greased with waterproof synthetic grease.

The Electric end is going to be Ugly as Sin.
Probably needs New Brushes.
The whole thing needs to get sprayed clean and lubed-up nice going back together.
<+><+><+><+><+><+><+><+><+>

Do it yourself:

Here's my Starter write-up.

Pull the starter. Clean the heck out of it.

After you get it on the bench ...

Two long screws hold BOTH indexed ends to the main body.

Remove the gear end and COMPLETELY clean and re-lube that end.
You'll need to spread one Circlip to get the Planet Main Shaft out.
>>>Keep track of washers and spacers.
>>>Some are THIN as paper.
Look on the ends of the shaft and inside the housing for thin Thrust Washers that like to stay stuck where they are.

Keep everything in order as you disassemble the Planet end.
Two small Planet Gears on opposed shafts.
The Ring Gear and Main Shaft.
Every Spacer and Thrust Washer.

Clean the "Whole-works" of the "Business-end." All of it so nice and clean a Marine Drill Instructor would have the Company check-out yours as good example.

Check for washers and thrust washers hiding on shafts and bearing ports.

Clean the Electric end; too.

Pull the Case away from the Motor -- slowly.
There's NO slack in the wire connecting the Brushes to the External Power Post.
Slip the Brushes off the Commutator.
Look for a Thrust washer - inside the Case - surrounding the port for the case bearing bushing.

With the starter exploded. Clean.
Electrical Parts Cleaning Spray or Alcohol.
Use straight Isopropyl Alcohol loaded into a sprayer that has the Stream or Spray option.
("Honey, did you see the Windex. I can't seem to find it." Great for spraying!)

Withdraw the Armature.
Spray everything until its completely clean and what you are spraying ON is as clean as what is dripping OFF!

Shoot the Commutator, Brushes, Brush Housing, Electrical Lead and the inside of the Electric end Case. Clean.

Shoot WD-40 on the CLEAN windings and magnets.

Lube the whole-works as you reassemble the Starter.

Using Top Quality Synthetic Waterproof Grease:
Everything and every surface on the Planet - Business End - gets lubed as it's reassembled.
Shafts, shaft bushing I.D.'s, washers, spacers, gears, pivots, bushings, etc.
Grease everything. Either liberally -- for function, or smeared-on for both rotational forces on it ... or, to hold it from slipping as you reinsert bearing shafts into bushed port on the case.

Spin the Planet Shaft after its re-clipped in and grease the rotating Planet Gears -- "On the Fly" ... as they rotate around the inside of the Ring Gear.

Lightly smear washers and spacers on the Electric End ... but, don't allow the grease to contaminate electric connections and Commutator.

Get a dab of grease into the port on the Electric end; and smear the end of the shaft which fits there.

Now, the fun and games of getting the Brushes lifted onto the Commutator and everything lined-up and back together begin.

It's like a Chinese Puzzle.

Only ... "Made in Japan" !

 

It may. What's the voltage measure at the battery?

12 or more volts dc? Probably the starter. 12 or less volts dc? A short drawing down the battery or alternator not charging the battery when it's running.