Clutch question

I went for a short ride Sat to get some gas. After I filled up I got on it pretty hard and found that third and 4th slips. Is this typical from sitting up a long time or should I be thinking about discs and springs at the least? On second thought this might be the new oil I'm using. Filled it with 20-50 supertech before I read about some saying use MC oil only or it will slip. Maybe I should do an oil change first.

 

Oil change first.

How many miles on it? Did it sit for a long time and that's the clutch that's in it?

 

Not only should you change th oil, you also flush out the engine good to get rid of the old stuff that made your clutch slip in the first place (if infact that's what the problem is)
Or maybe just some adjustment is needed with the cable? Worth looking into.

 

It has 26K on the dial. I have no idea how long it sat up. The last owner didn't know. He was over his head mechanically. I would guess everything was original by the amount of "takeup" protrusions ie: cable ends and brake adjmt threads. The last title was 1996.

 

Looks like you have your work cut out for you then. Take your time and do the recommended survice to it and you'll be happy you did. There's enough information here to be able to make a bike from scratch if you search for it. Don'tbe afraid to ask questions, even if you think they make you look stupid. We all had to start somewhere.

 

No problemo..I 'm already stoopid! New tires showed up yesterday. Already finished most of it . Been here a while now.

 

With 26K if it's the original clutch, just order up a set of friction plates, springs and a new gasket.

Clean up the plain plates and the pressure plate with Scotchbrite; you should be good to go.

If you install a new cable too you'll be amazed.

But still change the oil.

 

That clutch tension is gravy train compared to the Sporty I had. Even with a mousetrap it was a bear to pull. Don't miss it at all. I had the bottom off so I could get the valve chain back on the sproket. It was extremely clean inside . Not the first bit of sludge.
Discs,springs and a gasket. Sounds good. Cable is excellent. Could be a replacement.

 

Yep, as long as it wasn't abused and has burnt plates you're good. You will probably find some interesting "patterns" left on the plain plates from sitting; it's like counting the rings on a tree if you understand what you're looking at. Clean them up with Scotchbrite (along with the contact surface of the pressure plate) and they'll be fine.

The mileage is what makes it a done deal, my 550 was all done at around 22K; usually see 21K-25K for clutches starting to slip. You done good at 26.

 

I recently got a '82 XJ750J 16k miles, and it would slip under heavy acceleration. I decided to get new friction plates beacuse cable adjustment just wasnt doing enough. When I took the old ones out the friction plates were extremely worn and BLACK. The metal plates appear to be in good shape. I lightly sanded them with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper and sprayed clean with brake cleaner, then wiped down with a clean cloth. Then I oiled up the new friction plates with new oil.

One question I have before I put the cover back on and change the oil and then adjust the cable is:
The metal plates have a beveled edge near the inside teeth, and are flat on the opposite side of the plate (I don't mean the outside edge, but rather if you flip the plate over, the teeth/inside edge is flat on one side, beveled on the other). So, should the round side should face me when reinstalling, or should they face the bike? It seems that the plate deep in the basket (that is held in place by a retaining wire/ring) is round facing me. ---I am assuming that the plates go in rounded side facing me?

Also, this is maybe a really dumb thing I did, but I removed them and mixed them all up when I cleaned them and have no idea what order they were in. They all seem to be IDENTICAL as far as shape and thickness, This is the first time I have worked on a bikes' clutch, and a lot of posts on here say that you should rememer the order they were in. Hopefully it doesn't matter on this clutch. --I didn't remove the first plate becasue I didn't want to have any trouble with that wire/ring that was in there. None of my plates were black or warped, just a little dirty from those origional friction plates.

Thanks to anyone that replies!
I am going to put it back together in a few days, and I hope it works out!

 

Dallaspetree, all the plates are the same part # so as long as you've scuffed them your good. The beveled edge faces you, this is so they 'release' easily, when you release the clutch handle the springs forcefully push them back in so the beveled edge isn't nessasary.
Did you have a thin wire holding in the last plate? I'm doing mine today & found that wire. As of now I'm not removing it to scuff that last plate. Whadayathink?

 

Thanks. That's good to hear I may have put the plates in correctly. I agree on that last plate, unless its really burned up looking bad or something, I don't see the point in risking that wire breaking on you. My only advice is torque those 5 screwes how they should go. Not sure of the correct setting. I think the manual says 20-29lbs (don't quote me, I'm a novice) for a nut that size - 10mm i think - I just snapped one off trying to tighten down those springs. Looking for my easy-out set right now....

 

So you had the wire too?

 

Yup. Looks like there is a bent part that kind of makes a tab outwards according to the diagram. Should be able to remove it, and the plate behind it. That plate is the only special one I think. I'm not messing with the wire though, I hate breaking these parts on the old bikes.... grrrr :-(

 

If you are talented enough to have disassembled the Clutch and saved the money you'd have had to pay a shop, ...

I think you should treat yourself to a set of NEW Friction Discs.
It's Summer.
You deserve a New Clutch, man.

What if the Friction Plates were the reason you were slipping?
You started off with;
You got an '82 XJ750J with 16K.

Some people can go through a Clutch in way under 12K.

Own a '82 XJ750J with Zero-K on the Clutch.
You ought to be able to find a complete set of NEW Friction Pads for about 60-Bucks.

$60.oo
You earned it!

 

Yup, got new friction plates installed, paid new $74 for EBC brand.

Just need to figure the torque for the spring bolts. Just got the broken one out of there! I was thinking 20lbs or so.... per the manual 10mm needs 20-29lbs torque.

Any suggestion on the proper torque? Hopefully these bolts aren't old and crumbling apart... probably way too much torque.

Also I heard replacing springs is a good idea. I figure one step at a time. Not that hard to get this open and replace them later if needed.

 

The Clutch Spring Bolts Torque:

7.2 FtLbs.

(( Seven - Point - two - Foot - Pounds ))

 

Wow, no wonder I broke it off. Thanks!

 

FIVE point EIGHT foot pounds on the 550/600.