Rear axle nut position?

When the nut on the rear axle is torqued to spec - 76lbs, is it normal for the slots on the outer edge of the nut to be well past the cotter pin holes? My intuition tells me that those slots are part of the nut to be channels through which the cotter pin can slide. I reinstalled the chain adjusters, spacers, washer, and nut according to the manual. I did not do anything with the bearings but I noticed that I could see into the bearing race on the brake side. The parts diagram doesn't show that there's supposed to be a seal or cover there. (I packed some grease in just because it seemed like a good idea.)

Thanks.

 

When I torqued mine to spec, the castle nut blocked about 1/4 of the hole. I backed it off just a little to let the cotter pin slide in. It was very close though, definitely not completely blocked.

 

To clarify, I'm saying the nut screws on quite far such that the cotter pin hole is beyond the outside edge of the nut, not covered by it.

 

OH, that definitely doesn't sound right to me, but I don't know about your specific bike. My cotter pin slides between the castle tops on both wheels, as you would expect. Maybe check a parts diagram and see if any spacers were missing?

 

Thanks. Sorry if I didn't make that clear in my first post. Chain adjusters, spacers, washer, and nut were installed as indicated on the parts diagram in my Clymer service manual. I'm less certain as to whether some some cap, seal, or spacer might have previously been removed from in or around the bearings.

 

My axle has two sets of cotterpin holes. One set are closer to the
frame side then the other. this allows for some leeway between
the torque setting and cotterpin placement.
Dbl check you axle to see if this is the case-the diff in spacing is small.

 

One of my 550s does screw on quite a ways further than you would think, but that still doesn't sound quite right.

4:29EDT right now for me; I will be home by around 7:00EDT and will go in the garage and have a peek.

Also check the factory book for you, the Clymer can be misleading sometimes.

 

I can't tell you if anything is missing or not, but the nut going down so far that it won't engage the cotter pin is not right. Kind of defeats the purpose of the cotter if it doesn't go through the slots in the nut. If there isn't anything missing I'd try getting a new nut or adding a washer under it so the holes in the axle are centered in the slots.

 

Sounds good. Thanks.

That's what I was thinking. I do want to clarify one thing, though. I stopped torquing at the point at which the nut was about to pass the outer edge of the cotter pin hole. My initial concern was that I was over-torquing, but I definitely still had a ways to go before I reached 76lbs.

 

OK. Both of my 550 Secas (slightly different rear brake) are at HALF the hole or almost (but not quite) past it.

parts is correct, there are two sets of holes, one set closer to the swingarm than the other.

I checked your fiche and the factory book, "stackup" should be as follows:

From right to left (as you insert the axle) the axle itself, adjuster, spacer, brake drum, hub, collar (fits in the outer hub bearing,) adjuster, big flat washer, nut.

If the rear wheel spins freely with the nut at the proper torque, put a cotter pin in it so the round head engages the castellations and call it cool.

A PO may have substituted the big flat washer with a "normal" skinny one.

 

I think what you're calling a collar my book calls a spacer, but if that's the case, then those are all of the parts as I replaced them.

In order to accomplish this without going past 76lbs, I had to leave it somewhere in the 65lb-ish range. I don't really think there's any way it's going to slip.

The washer is pretty heavy and measures about 2.5mm in thickness. Thanks.

 

A quick reminder to help put your mind at ease.
The torque setting is to keep us from OVER tightening,
not under tightening.
A few pounds on the light side will not hurt as long as:
1: your at leased 1/8 (or a little more dep'd) turn past finger tight.
2: a proper sized,new cotter pin is in place.
You seem to strike me as the kind of rider that checks
the condition of thier bike on a regular basis and as such
would be watchful for any probs that might accure after
working on the bike.
So just use good common sense and get out and ride :wink: :twisted:

 

Thanks for all responses.