top end noise

havnt run my seca 750 in a about 2 months it ran fine then started it up today and the normal ticking sound is about ten times louder its actually louder than the exhaust at idle anybody know what this is and how to fix it


ohh and the last time i rode it i ended up sideways in a snowbank but it drove home without the excessive noise that didnt happen until i started it today
only damage to bike appears to be a bent turn signal

 

i think i'd check all 4 pipes at the head and going into and out of the collector...perhaps you've jarred one loose. when i installed a "new" #1 pipe on mine i didn't have it all the way in the head and it made ahorrible valve sound all down the left hand side...i mean horrible. i worked to get the pipe all the way in and mounted properly and the noise was gone.
again, i think it's yer exhaust.
just my .02, sure others will chime in

 

My 1100 was making a similar noise. I adjusted the chain tentioner and it cleared right up.

MN

 

Did you have it on the sidestand or centerstand for the two months?

Oil level ok of course?

 

sidestand

 

My money is on the cam chain. Ant if that is the problem, you are going to notice a significant power increase when you correct the problem. on the down side, it may require a carb adjustment once you fix it.

 

if the problem is in the cam chain what do i do
my seca has an automatic tenshioner

 

oil level is ok and i was wrong it was on the centerstand while it sat

 

I'd put money on it being an exhaust leak at the headers/manifold.

 

you can detect an exhaust leak by holding your hand up to the suspect area (without touching!) and feel for air rushing out of the joints. exhaust leaks at the headers commonly sound like loud ticking.

as the others said it's also possible the automatic tensioner has failed somehow (weak spring?). it should be easy to remove to inspect its operation.

 

I found the best way to detect an exhaust leak is with a lighter. Preferably one of the long ones used to light a BBQ grill.

 

Make a "Probe-o-Scope"
The fiberglass rod used for driveway markers is ideal.
A small-diameter wooden dowel will do the trick.
So will a broom stick.
Even a ski pole.

The idea is to have a rod that you can place one end on the Engine, ... and the other end to your ear.
You may use you imagination about what to affix to the "Ear end" to make it comfortable to place your ear to, ... to listen to the mechanical sounds of the engine.
Suction cups
Erasers
Modeling clay
Chopped Air Valve Stem
Miniature baby-doll head ...

Or, ... just hold the "Probe-o-Scope" in your fist and place your thumb over the end, ... and "Listen" with your ear placed to your thumb.

Probe the whole engine while its running.
You'll definitely hear a host of mechanical sounds; primarily rotational.

But, if something is knocking or scraping, ... or making a noise inside the Plant ...
You can pinpoint where the noise is coming from and have a better idea about what it might be.

 

ok here is an update i have put brand new gaskets from engine to exhaust and the noise is still there

to me and a couple of my friends it sounds like loud valve train noise

i have pulled the valve cover and checked the shims all of them are in tolerance and i have rotated the motor the cams are moving the valves and the cams are slick with oil

i can move the camchain up about 2 to 4 mm by grabbing it between the cam gears and pulling up with my hand is this too much slack should i replace the automatic tensioner i have tried backing the tensioner nut out 2 turns then tightening it this did nothing

and the sound gets a little quiter when it warms up but not much you can also only really hear it below 2000rpm

i havnt been able to make the stethescope thing yet but i dont really know what i would be listening for

 

Wait, whoa stop.

Which type of adjuster do you have? The kind that has a bolt and nut on the side or the fully automatic type?

If it has the bolt/nut then there's more to it than loosening the nut.

 

The '81 - 650H got built with Manual Tensioner.

You have to get walked through the process of presenting the Cam Chain Slack in front of the Tensioner and Adjusting the Cam Chain Tension ... Manually.

Search: Manual Tensioner Reset. I remember Posting that a ways back.

 

this is my 82 750 seca it has the automatic i turned the screw that holds all the guts in

 

Turning that Hex Nut DOES Not Tighten the Tensioner.

Pull the Plugs.
Pull the Left Side Cover.
Wrench-over the Engine 2X in the Normal Rotation.
Bring to a slow steady stop.

Suddenly, turn the Engine over in REVERSE Direction.
The Tensioner will take-up the Slack.

Repeat.
Hint:
Have assistant Tapping on Tensioner with Butt end of Hammer Handle when you reverse direction.

 

No need for a search, I don't mind some typing.

Manual cam chain tensioner reset:

Remove ignition pickup cover (left end of crank) 4 giant screws.

Using a 19mm or adjustable wrench on the end of the crank, turn the motor over CCW (forward) until the "C" mark on the timing plate aligns with the pointer. (NOT the "T" mark.)

Be careful not to crash into the ignition pickups with the wrench.)

Using a 12mm deepwell socket loosen the camchain adjuster bolt locknut.

Using a 10mm socket, loosen the adjuster locking bolt. Just a couple turns max, enough to loosen not remove.

From the left side of the bike, reach in with a hammer handle or the end of something reasonably stout and give the tensioner body a couple of stiff taps. This is to ensure the tensioner didn't hang up (not likely.)

Retighten bolt to 51.6 INCH/pounds (4.3 ft/lb.)

Retighten locknut to 78 INCH/pounds (6.5 ft/lb.)

Replace cover (it should have a gasket.)

Can't help you on the automatic tensioner, mine are manual.

 

Well alrighty then. By the time I got that typed up...

 

pulled tensioner should it look like this
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy11 ... 1_1030.jpg

 

did manual adjusting before pulling it didnt work

 

Is that how far it was out when you removed it?

You might be getting into the area where replacement of the Timing Chain is necessary.
That usually depends upon how far the Bike has been driven, though.

55,000 ~ 60,000 Miles is Par for the life of a Timing Chain in a well maintained Bike.

 

i have only had it for last 1000 miles but gauge says 10750mi i do poroper maintenance

 

Maybe we're all barking up the wrong tree. Might be time for a train of thought reset.

Reading back, you said something about a snowbank. This noise started after some sort of a tipover mishap back in the spring, and you're still struggling with it?

You said you replaced all the exhaust gaskets; did you carefully examine the headpipes/collector for damage?

Has the sound changed/diminished at all as a result of your efforts?

 

Sometimes when a Bike gets dumped ... the "Splash Plate" ... Over the Oil Pump gets dislodged.

But, that will make quite a racket.

 

cam chain is definatly loose i can pull it with my hand are there any guides or something like that that can be jammed loose

 

http://www.highlandsyamaha.com/pages/pa ... amaha.aspx

This is a good site, you can look at parts fiche for your bike and see how things go together.

I'm looking at yours now,

 

Look at the INSIDE of the Cam Cover?

Is there a MARK where the Chain has rubbed against the Cover?

The Timing Chain Guides fit into locking areas and are secured from movement.
Try moving the Guide and see if it is loose.

With under 11,000 miles the Chain and Sprockets ought to be as good as new.
But if the Chain is loose you need to troubleshoot why.
See if the Tensioner will operate correctly and is not binding.