xj700 Ghetto Bob

I don't have a build from stock thread. I might be getting another bike to swap some parts over to, if this ones issues aren't fixable without a complete tear down. If that is the case this thread will be much more interesting. I have an 86' Maxim 700 Ghetto Rat Bobbed out. I've got no working instruments, other than neutral indicator and fuel light. I had her running up until today. I've just begun tracing out the problem. It is not starting, no click, nothing from the starter. Also it has a PCV delete and a pod filter in its place on the gear box. When running today, it was blowing oil through the filter. I was think (hoping not) that it was bad piston rings. I need some input on these issues. I am pretty experienced with mechanics for my age (19) and having no formal education. I just need ideas on where to start looking for fixes. I have a lot of rats nest wire harnesses due to all the deletes such as controls and signals. I don't want to do a tear down on this bike. I am without a shop at this point. I would rather start fresh with another cheap xj, if the problems are serious. This bike is well weathered I don't want to put much more money into it. Not much on this bike was done right or safe. As I said it's a Ghetto Rat Bobber.

 

Maybe not right or safe but that's one kick ass bike! 8O
If you wanna start a new project from scratch we can trade. :wink:

 

Let's see- -
Suicide shift, Model "A" rear tire, and tail light,
Re-Bar struts, cool straight pipes, "don't give a damn" fuel filler rig,
still way too clean to be a "Rat".

"I had her running up until today."
Start with basic battery and electrical- - test for 12.8 volts, clean terminals.
Check your oil level for a over-fill condition indicating fuel leaking past needle and seat.
You have a sight glass window near the clutch.
Replace your oil if diluted with gas.
You should be back up and running in no time.
Then, check your rear brakes, see my sig !!

 

i LOVE the look of this bike

 

That's a sweet bike! Would love to see a close up on how you routed the exhaust underneath.

 

The exhaust is just piping from a car shop, it is welded passed the cat. (or what ever it is) It is VERY loud. It really sounds the way it looks. Thanks guys it is a real head turner and a blast to ride with the jockey shift.

 

Good lookin' scoot.

 

No starter might be the kickstand sw if it has one or the start button itself. I think these use the start button to provide ground to the start sol . try touching a ground wire to the sol (on the correct terminal) and see if it turns over. By the way...Nice ride! I like the back tire :lol:

 

It turns over when jumping the solenoid. It has an extremely bad blow by. I'm pretty sure the piston rings are done for. I really don't want to rebuild it. I may swap it out or just get another cruiser (maybe a v-twin) to hard tail and swap parts to.

 

if you do that and don't need the struts, gauges, and some other parts I might be interested.

 

Japrat, here's your start circuit test how-to ;

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... relay.html

What's your compression #'s ??
What do your plugs look like?? (post a pic)
Do an oil change with 20 W 50, ride it some, and see what happens.

 

gauges are dead, struts are junk.. they work though I'll let you know

 

Gauges are dead? Any chance of being brought back to life? I'll give it a shot if you don't want to.

 

idk.. prolly.. The speedo is busted and the tach goes up slightly and stays. You could rebuild them. I might just rebuild the engine. It depends on my funds this summer. I will let you know when the time comes.

 

Hey Japrat,

can you tell me where the battery and fuse panel are on that bike or better yet throw me a few pics. I inherited with a friend a bobber projct but i have to put it back together

 

Yeah man, no need for pics. Everything is in the stock position under the seat. It still pops off with the lever as do the side panels.

 

kool bike man, its definetly worth fixing. where you located?

 

As south as you can go in MD.

 

That's my favorite bike on this site. I've really grown to dislike rat bikes, mainly because no one seems to be able to get them right. But you have nailed it. That's what a flat black bike is supposed to look like. Rims, whitewalls,jockey shift.....beautiful! Nice vintage hot rod look.

Now, about that jockey shift. Have you had any problems with it popping out of gear or even shifting gears? The extra weight doesn't make it too top heavy and sensitive does it?

 

Thanks man, it's not really a rat bike. It's a rat rod style bike. I've had no problems out of the jockey shift, other than getting used to it. The bike has a really loose gear box, so that makes it a far reach.

 

I love everything about this bike, it was done perfectly, the only thing i would do is a tractor seat with a bicycle shock, but thats just me, this is now my desktop backround

 

That is a great looking bike.

 

Your bike is beautiful..
I want to do the same except for the suicide shifter because i live in Miami and that would be suicide out here.

Please tell me what size Ape Hangers you used and where did you get them..

I have a 1985 Yamaha XJ700 and i want to build a bike like yours...

thanks

Zach

 

good luck with that zack. japrat only has 15 posts and it looks as though his last post was 4 years ago. I doubt he even remembers his login.

by the way, welcome to the forum. be sure to list your bike in your sig line so we can better answer any questions you may have in the future.

CN

 

The "rise" of the handlebars appears to be 2 inches shorter than the length of the alloy fork tubes. Bicycle handlebars can work, as long as they fit in the clamps, and have ends long enough.

What's the spring under the headlight for ?? Looking like a mountain bike shock.

 

Nice bike. You're a braver man than I going with pods. I've seen enough people having trouble on here to scare me away.

 

What size are these Apes ?
Also I see how you lowered the front but how did you lower the rear ?

 

Jewishguy, check the dates of all the previous posts, this thread was four years ago. The guy hasn't been back.
To your question, the rear end doesn't look lowered so much as the fender was dropped to be closer to the tire, and the shocks replaced with struts.
BTW, don't use bicycle handlebars on a motorcycle, they are not made to handle the same stresses. Maybe on a lightweight bike, like super lightweight sub 100cc, but on a 475lb+ bike it's just asking for trouble.

 

Thanks for the tip...
Ive been thinking of getting the 7/8" Apes from TC Bros
I just wanted to know the size this guy used on this bike.. 12" or 15"
I am tall at 6'2" so i figured maybe 15" tall would be good.
I also need to locate an ignition switch and saw this aftermarket one by EMGO .. it just looks the same as the one in my '85 XJ700

 

What are the issues with running pods ?

 

Haha, its a hot topic issue to be sure! Sometimes it goes fine, sometimes you wind up running too lean a mixture and you literally melt your engine. Or sometimes it just won't run at all cause you can't get the air pressure right anymore.

Check the forums for various posts on the pod debate... I don't have any links handy just this minute.

Also check out sigma6 on eBay. I used their kit. They custom make your setup based on what make and model, what mods you've made to the bike, and even what elevation you ride at. They won't make you a kit without that info.

 

Handy POD threads - -


success stories

advise and debate

(click the links, check out the warnings too . \/)

Back to bicycle handlebars - if you can't bend them with your arms, then what stresses are they under?? I can see that the quality of the chrome wouldn't be at the "motorcycle" level, but wouldn't matter if painted.

 

There are two main things to consider:

1. Bicycle bars have thinner walls to reduce overall weight, and they can get away with it because they only have to handle your weight and the impact of hitting rocks, etc, at bicycle speeds. Motorcycle bars are thicker because they also have to withstand engine and highway vibrations. To the human eye, it looks like nothing is happening, but on a microscopic and high speed level, those bars are bending with every vibration. The cumulative effect is like that of bending the tab on a pop can back and forth until it fatigues and breaks. Not something you want to have happen while you're riding.

2. Bicycle bars are engineered for one mounting point, and have their greatest strength focused there. Motorcycle bars mount at two points further out from the center. If you mount bicycle bars away from the center, you are bypassing all the strength that was built into the center.

So I suppose if you really wanted to do it, you should buy two bars, cut off opposite sides, and mount the "center" to either side of the motorcycle.

Another thing to consider is that the bicycle bars I'm talking about are the high-end, competition ready, pricey mountain bike bars. Those things can be easily in the 200-300 dollar ranges, while perfectly fine motorcycle bars can be had for 30-60 dollars at most bike shops.

 

I thought I'd chime in here.... how did the kit from Sigma6 work out? I was checking out their site yesterday. I got my bike running before I tore it all apart but definitely have some carb tuning to do once I put it back together.

 

I am not using bicycle bars but rather the ones from TC Brothers...

I debated between 12" or 15" but I am a tall guy at 6'2"
and I plan on dropping the bike about 4 inches up front and slammed the rear via short shocks and still have a seat pad on the rear fender for my wife

TC Bros. 7/8" Ape Hanger Handlebars - 15" Black Powdercoated

 

I should preface this and let you know, if I haven't already in some other thread, that I am a carburetive newb. I bought the kit with the decision that this would force me to learn. Thankfully my father-in-law was also around to show me the ropes (he works on snowmobiles a lot, so the basics were there).

What you get from Sigma6 is a thick packet of papers with detailed instructions, diagrams, warnings and disclaimers, and folded and stapled inside this packet are little Ziploc baggies with jets, various washers, a drill bit... and I think that was it. The diagrams almost made sense to me, but then the instructions didn't seem to jive, and I second-guessed a lot. That's where my father-in-law came in, as it made more sense to him, and he knew more of the terms and phrases. That and he wasn't terrified of the magical and mysterious carburetor like I was. I've been less terrified of holding a newborn.

So he stepped me through it slowly, and we got all four done in under an hour. We even did a quick bench sync. So for the conversion, you have to swap the jets (obviously), pull the needle and put a spacer washer under it to offset it, and drill a slightly bigger hole in the slide valve.

Later on when I finished with other parts of the build, connected all the right wires and cables, and got the engine running, it started great. I've only had about 200 miles on it before Winter hit, but each plug looks like a perfectly toasted marshmallow. Again, newb, and I'm not a racer, but the throttle response seems pretty quick, both for pickup and drop off. I did have to play with the idler and the pilot screws, but it didn't take long once I realized how to go about it. I will note that my efficiency has dropped about 5mpg, but that's the price of jetting.