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front brakes

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by usdart, Jul 5, 2010.

  1. usdart

    usdart Member

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    The grease trick worked great..now they are clean I have to press them back together with a "C" clamp I guess.
    Not going to rebuild at this time! Can't afford any $$$ so I will make do with what I have. Was able to remove the seals clean and re-install them using locksmith tools. They look real nice.

    Best I can do at this time.
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You should be able to press the caliper piston back in by hand once the caliper seal channels have been properly cleaned and the seals are in place. If it requires a c-clamp then either you didn't get the channels religiously clean or your old seals are swollen and should be replaced.

    New seals are a lot cheaper than the hospital stay will be.
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Don't try to replace the Caliper Piston ... "Dry"

    Use some fresh Brake Fluid from the Bottle and Lubricate the Caliper Bore, Caliper Seal and the Piston.

    Without any Fluid in the Caliper and the Bleeder out and the Brake Line Fitting open, ... the Piston will still provide resistance to being pushed-in past the New Caliper Seal.

    The Geometry in lining-up the Piston should be perfect on every plane.
    If the Piston tilts while being replaced it becomes very difficult to get the Piston to move and you might need to: "Start All-Over" lining it up and inserting it back into the Bore.

    A C-clamp, Big Socket and a Quarter will help with stubborn cases.

    Protect the Outboard Surface of the Caliper from being scratched.
    Tape the Quarter over the end of the Socket with the 3/8 or 1/2 Inch Square.
    (Use the Biggest Socket that fits the open-end on the Caliper Piston.)

    Keep the Geometry true and Press the Piston home.
     
  4. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    You said it. Even with the bore squeaky clean, I needed the C-clamp (with a 9/16 socket). That said, closing the c-clamp slowly was very easy with little resistance from the piston. Getting it in straight is pretty important, but also pretty easy - you'll know right away.
     
  5. usdart

    usdart Member

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    Used a 'C' clamp and everything went perfectly. It was difficult to bleed the brakes though. I had to add low air pressure with the bleeders open to get it started.
    WOO HOO...brakes are just like new. Just test rode and all is well.

    Thanks to all who helped and cared for my safety as well.

    Dave
     
  6. cutlass79500

    cutlass79500 Well-Known Member

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    another success story
     

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