Usage of STP Oil Treatment to The Engine

Is the usage of STP Engine Oil Flush to the engine prior to oil change,say for 10 minutes on idling, harmful to the engine and its transmission?

I intend to drain the engine oil as its contaminated by the fuel through the airbox,fortunately too i have managed to aquire some parts via the e-bay and frm USA...they are on the way
Managed to clean and rectify the carburators too.(bench ...so far )

I also intend to use the STP Engine Oil Treatment after filling with new oil....will this harm the engine's components and the transmission too?

Any advice please?

Thks.

 

I had the same problem when I bought my bike. I think the guy left gas in the tank before he stored it for 2 years and the first few times I fired it up, gas and oil came spewing out of the airbox.

I drained everything out of the crank case, changed the oil filter, filled it with 5w-30, ran it for about 30 minutes, then drained and changed the oil filter again, and filled it up with some higher grade motorcycle oil. The bike runs great now.

Cant help ya on the STP Treatment as I've never used it, but I definately feel your pain on the oil/fuel situation.

--Gremlin484

 

as Gremlin mentioned you could drain your old oil then re-fill it with a lower grade oil run it for 5-10 mins (not under load) then drain and re-fill with a good oil, the STP treatement am not familiar with if its made for that application then i would imagine that it would not be harmfull to your engine.

i wouldnt run it for long and definetly dont run it under load meaning dont drive it down the road for 10 mins with the STP in the crankcase just idle.

theres another product that you can use its called seafoam the company claims you can use this in your crankcase for flushing purposes, same application 5-10 mins no load flush then re-fill with fresh oil but i dont know if you can get it where you live.

maybe someone in here could chime in that has done this before see how they made out, personally i think you would be o.k to use the STP flush in your engine, drain a bit of the old oil out top it up with the STP flush(dont over-fill) then run it for 10 mins at idle then drain it all then re-fill with new oil and i think you would be good to go.

 

Don't know about STP treatment - I'm not a big fan of oil treatments or additives in general. Unlikely that using it to flush would be a problem.

However, if you really want to clean out the engine to make sure you get the sludge and crud out, you can use the good old classic Kerosene for a short run, or many of us have used Seafoam to great success.

 

Thanks for the quick responses...Gremlin484 / OU812didntU,
STP is a USA product,(STP Products company,1221 Broadway,Oakland,CA 94612) ( www. stp. com ) and i have used them a lot in motor cars petrol engines and they work wonders! The engine Oil Treatment is a "high viscocity oil treatment specially formulated to fight metal to metal friction by providing a thicker cushion between moving parts"
Seafoam ..isn't it like diesel fuel?

I am still waiting for the oil filter tho ..
Thanks again.

 

Don't add the STP Engine Oil Treatment to your oil!. STP is a fine product, but isn't made for wet clutches. Reduce the friction to any large degree (STP's purpose), and you'll probably be buying a clutch.

As to getting the fuel-contaminated oil completely out of the engine, just do a normal oil change. The first time you get the engine fully warmed up afterward, any fuel and other volatiles (ie: water) will flash off and be gone.

 

bosozoku is right, any type of friction modifiers in your oil will greatly effect your clutch perfomace and wear. I would use some form of cleaner like everyone else said. run it without a load,drain it and change the oil

 

seafoam is a product that contains 100% pure petroleum for use in gasoline and diesel type engines.

you can add it to the crankcase(oil) frees sticky valves lifters and rings, cleans parts,increases rpms vaccum and compression.NOTE doesnt say whether or not to run it under load in the crankcase, so i personally would not.

you can add it to your gas tank(fuel) cleans fuel injectors and carbs, jets, De-ices and removes moisture,cleans carbon build-up stabilizes fuel, lubricates upper cyclinders, smoothes rough idle.

inject seafoam thru carb and spark plug holes to store and fog cylinders.

this product i have used(and many in the forum) with great success.

 

seafoam this is the canadian label i think the american label is diff, but same product

 

Looks about the same as I remember it...

 

Think about it... if STP makes your oil slipprier then you clutch will be slipping in no time!!

When I got my bike it had been sitting for 10 yrs and the carbs were gummed up and well what a mess!!!
I got to thinking, if you have an intake valve that isnt closing all the way because of being varnished and left in a partially open position. that might just be causing the gas out the aircleaner that many have seemed to experience.
If that cylinder isnt sealing up the compression might be blowing the fuel out the intake side of the carb???!!

When I first started running mine, I had the same problem with stuck valves but not quite so bad.

I just changed the oil & filter right off and added some diesel to the oil and ran it for about 3-4 min, dumped the oil and refilled it with cheap straight grade 30 wt detergent oil and SeaFoam, only ran it for about a total of 30 min. no more than 5 min at a time.
Dumped the oil and started with Castrol Syntech 5-50 wt oil and a quality filter, I ran that oil for a total of about 2 wks. (I used the high $ oil too soon!)

I also NEVER use a motor honey type product, as I had a friend who lost an engine due to poor circulation on an arctic cold day. When we pulled it apart the only thing we could find was that his oil was too thick and the honey was all gummed up at his oil pick up tube.

I changed the oil at about 1500 miles and then about every 2500 miles since and have had no problems.

Good Luck

 

If you really NEED to flush-out the entire engine. Let it get HOT on a fill of 10-40. Drain it. When its still pretty warm ... fill it up with STRAIGHT SeaFoam.

Pull all the spark plugs.
Turn-over the engine using the Starter Motor for 20 seconds.
20 seconds.
Wait one full minute between using the Starter to turn-over the engine.
Repeat the process 5 or 6 times; working the Clutch lever to clean the friction pads; too.
The plugs are OUT.
The engine is only rotating under the power of the electric motor.
NO load.

After your done circulating the cleaning agent.
Drain it all. Clean-out the Oil Filter cover; too.

Put it all back together and fill it with 10-40, again.
Don't put the plugs back in yet.
Run the starter for 20-seconds -- three times -- as before ... to circulate the 10-40 throughout the plant before actually starting it.

Put the plugs in it.
Start it and let it idle until fully warmed-up.
Kill it and drain-out the 10-40 until its all out of there.

Change the filter, clean-out the filter housing and button it up.
Add your new, clean oil.

 

If anything, the fuel has already acted as an engine flush. I put some motor flush through my bike last summer before changing the oil. It was a waste of time. Even with 80,000+ km on a turbo, there was NO sludge in the motor at all. I think a lot of these type of problems have disappeared with the vast improvements in lubricants over the last few decades. The engine in this bike also throws off heat like a nuclear reactor in traffic as well, so I was well surprised to find it so clean.

Just my experience.

 

I think the engineering of the XJ Engine has a whole lot to do with preventing sludge build-up.

There's very few places, outside of the very easily cleaned camshaft tunnels, where oil gets to sit, before gravity returns the oil to the sump with the superbly engineered scavenge system.

I have done a few bikes and found some build-up in the oil filter cover. But, those few bikes had sat for months without being run. Even so, that crud most likely dripped off the oil filter and was never introduced to the lube circuit.

That little bit of oil, which accumulates in the low spot of the oil filter cover, has the responsibility of ruining the good shirt you should have took-off before loosing the cover and converting that good shirt to another work shirt!!!

Been there; done that!

 

wow - 80000+ km's, I was getting worried because my max was getting close to 40!

 

Mine has 65000 miles, roughly 90000km on it at the moment. Just keep up on the maintinance and treat her right and she will last longer than your wife. No offense.

 

Awwww C'mon.. I like all my Yamahas
But seriously: "superbly engineered' is a bit much Mate.
These have at least as many mistakes built in as most machines.. and likely a few more by my direct observations.
Ohhhh.. Old time Mechs used Diesel as Engine flush ..cheap/easy effective but totally unecessary on any engine that gets regular oil and filter changes... the REAL reason for the lack of Sludge.

 

Superbly engineered.

Sure. All the improvements made to motorcycle engines since 1982 make all those new engines the ones which are "Superbly engineered."

But, "Superbly engineered" isn't just my opinion regarding the venerable XJ-Series engines ... born from Yamaha Racing Technology. The Motorcycling Press had that to say, plus a few more accolades for the XJ-Series engines back when they debuted, just after Disco.

My favorite: "Bullet Proof"
Properly maintained and serviced ... you might see some of these still running strong after 20 years.

Imagine that?
Guess they hit the nail on the head with that one ... huh?