Is the exhaust from a Maxim 550 too hot for JB Weld

Hi Folks,

Although I'm sure that this question has been asked and answered I couldn't find it so I'm asking myself. I've already accepted that I'll need to replace the exhaust due to many many holes but the 4 to 1 I've ordered is backordered and I have a rally that I've gone to every year since I obtained my bike (this will be my third year but a tradition is a tradition, dammit). I really need a quick fix to get my bike through the next few weeks, or at least that ride, and I'm wondering if JB Weld will do the trick. I tried the JB Stick previously and it worked well until I decided to really push the bike and then the whole mess blew apart. To be fair though I hadn't actually prepped the surface and there was so much oil and rust I'm surprised it stuck at all.

What I need to know is whether JB weld on a prepped surface can hold up to the heat and pressure of a Maxim 550. The holes are primarily in the collector (I think that's what it's called) between the header and the two exhaust pipes, although there is a crack in one of the four pipes right by the collector which I was hoping to fix up. Will this work as a suitable temp fix for a long leisurely cruise or even as a more long term fix or am I just wasting time with this one? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here... have some pictures.

 

Although, I imagine these are not new holes so I suppose I could just ride with it as it is... I imagine this was what the seller was referring to when he spoke of this bike's "loud pipes". Still, after having ridden it without the exhaust leak I'm not sure I could go back.

 

from when i researched this jb weld probably cant handle the high temps of the exhaust. go to autozone or checker, they sell exhaust sealer and patch kits to fix small holes like that. only costs a couple bux, i've use the sealer before to "glue" a stopper to a muffler to hold the center stand and its worked well.

 

I have used JB weld on the joint between the exhuast pipe and muffler successfully. I first wrap the joint in saran wrap then added JB weld on the saran wrap then added another layer of saran wrap and mold to shape. this allowed me to remove the muffler and yet sealed pretty well (about 99%).

 

I didn't see anything like that while I was just there... I understand that the JB Weld can handle up to 600 Degrees and I wasn't sure if it was cool enough by the time it hit that section of the exhaust. I'm thinking I'll try the JB Weld and if that doesn't hold I'll try another strategy. I was hoping someone here had first hand experience trying this so I'd know what to expect. I mean, it doesn't seem like 600 degrees... then again I don't make a habit of grabbing my exhaust.

 

When I switched to "sreamin eagles" I had to cut the ends
off the stock pipes and JB Weld them into the new ends so
they would slip back on. The JB didn't take the heat well
and became brittle and cracked. I used the slow set mix that
requires 24hrs to set-thought it might be a better bond then the
quick dry. But for a patch job it may work better since there
won't be a load to carry.

 

While thoroughly cleaning the metal of rust and debris I see that there are plenty of spots where the original JB Stick I had used are still holding strong. As I recall when the last JB failed it did so as a giant piece covered in oil water and rust, so it was probably the pressure and the poor adhesion that did it in not the heat. Still, I was really hoping to hear a "Hell yeah, it worked for me". Hopefully I will be the first

 

technically JB Weld (particularly the high temp version) can take the heat but once cured it doesn't take too kindly to the heat cycling expansion and contraction of the surrounding metal.

 

If you have a tractor supply where you are they usually have high heat repairs for exhaust that are more industrial than the normal JB weld from hardware store.

Also, if you dont have a welder you could always clean them up and get mapp gas and oxygen and try and braze them. I've done this on exhausts and never had a problem.

 

i had holes in the mufflers. i used aluminum plating and jbweld. put clamps on to hold the plating and let it set for 24 hours. had no problems.

 

There is a product called Milliput that will work. It's a two-part epoxy putty.

It's sold in hobby shops, but the manufacturers make some really interesting suggestions as to what you can use it on.

My #3 pipe on my '81 had the little ega port "bump" torn loose (something had obviously snagged the bolt) and I patched it with Milliput. That was almost three years ago and it's still solid.

That being said, that collector box is toast.

I have a decent spare collector box you can "borrow" until you get your 4-1, but I don't know if you'd want to go the added expense of new muffler gaskets, etc., for that only to replace it soon. I might be able to help you with a decent used head pipe-- which cylinder?

 

Not sure how it's labeled... 3rd from the left if facing the front. And, yeah... I hadn't even planned on putting this one back on at all... much less actually replace parts for it. Thanks for the offer though.

 

Pipes are 1-4, left to right, sitting on the bike.

PM me if you'd like to "borrow" a pipe, if you're gonna go ahead and patch the collector for now.

 

And, the answer is... Yes and No. The exhaust isn't too hot but yes, it will crack from the expansion and contraction of the metal making it less than ideal. Hopefully, it will last until the new exhaust comes in but it's a temporary fix at best.