Drive Chain Question - Endless REALLY req'd?

My manual says that I need to run an endless chain on my bike. Seems like a real pain, given that you need to remove the swing arm for replacement. So here are a couple questions:

-Do you really need to use an endless chain? DID chains with a master link claim to handle 8,000+ lbs of force...

-What is the average life expectancy of a drive chain? I lube it about every 600 miles or so

-Any suggestions for chain/front sprocket combos?

Thanks guys. Pretty soon my XJS will be back in the game!


-Dennis

 

removing the swing arm won't get you anywhere. removing the front sprocket cover is all you need. wrap the chain around the front sprocket and string it around the rest. don't know about this endless thing. seems to me like you only need so much chain.

they don't seem to havfe a very long life expectancy.

 

Snowwy- Thats what I mean. Using a chain with a master link is easier because, like you said, you can feed it through. My manual claims you need to use an "endless chain" - not infinite length lol, the thing is just permanently fastened together in a loop. My manual claims swing arm removal is necessary...

I'm going on a long ride next week (800 miles). You think my chain with 10k on it is good?

 

What WE think of your chain is irrelevant; do YOU think it's good?

I've got two 550 Secas. Both came with endless chains; both are now running master-linked chains, and standard sprockets.

Life expectancy seems to be around 12000-15000 miles, depending on care (regular cleaning, lubrication, and kept adusted) and riding style. At least that's been my experience so far, but I haven't out enough miles on either new chain/sprocket set myself to give you an accurate answer.

An "endless chain" isn't really an endless chain, they mean one of the riveted master link types as opposed to the old school clip-type. I use the old school kind, always have, with no issues.

Here's the link to chacal's catalog page with a real good explanation of your options, chain-wise; it starts almost exactly halfway down the page: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... rt=30.html

Personally, I run a basic non o-ring standard chain and stock sprockets and am having excellent luck with them so far, and I do tend to hammer the bikes a bit. Others seem to have had very good results with o-ring or x-ring chains; read up a bit and decide.

How to tell if you need to replace the chain and sprockets: Grasp the pin of a chain link in the 3:00 position on the rear sprocket and pull it straight back. If you uncover more than half of the adjacent tooth/teeth then it's time.



DO NOT "push your luck" with your XJ. If you break a chain it's got a better than 50% chance of coming back up and tearing the starter out of the cases; it can cost you the motor.

 

If you had a drive line this wouldn't be an issue

 

It's NOT an issue; it's part of routine maintenance and proper care of a traditional motorcycle.

I've been riding street bikes for 42+ years, all of them chain-driven. It's just part of life on two wheels.

I have a shaft-drive bike now, although I haven't got it into rideable shape yet. One thing that still bothers me about the whole concept is the extra 100lbs, possible handling consequences aside. Seems wholly unnecessary.

Personally, the jury is still out in regard to this whole shaft drive idea...

 

If you are concerned, get the chain breaker and riveter tools. Personally, I've run master linked chains many many miles with no problems. O-ring chains seem to need marginally less lubing, but not enough to make the extra expense worth it. jmho

 

chains ho hum, ancient technology as drive

 

You can run a snap link type chain. Endless chains are a pain in the butt and if you can find a master link type that will fit your bike, go with it. Otherwise buy the chain breaker and riveting tool now... around $120 for the riveting tool. Also about $120 for 2 sprockets and a snap link type chain. I have the continuous link chain but thats because I didn't read the description of what I was buying. So a lot of swearing, an anvil, mallet, and a chisle... oh and about and hour of all of that... nevermind.

 

Unfortunately, Chacal doesn't carry parts for my "new" 94. I think I'm going to go with a DID520V. I found one on bikebandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/d-i-d-520v-pr ... m=8203&t=1

The add says that this chain is ideal for quads up to 250cc... but the tensile strength is 6800 lbs... will this work? The other alternatives seem to be over $175 and capable of 180+ hp... over kill for my Seca II.

In the past I've installed chains with the 'C clip' style master link on my Ninja 250.

My understanding of the rivet style master link is that you press the pieces together to connect the two ends of the chain. Can this be done using a C Clamp, or do I need specialized tools?

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Use this tool

 

of all the chain failures i have seen at the races (dirt, atvs) i have never seen a master fail. i would run an entire chain made of masters with no second thoughts.

on the hijack that runs within this thread: u-joints suck to replace. driveshafts introduce a new aspect of engineering into the design of a bike, and provide much more driveline weight to suck up HP and dock efficiency. chains wear and need replacement, but thats not a big deal for me. my bike was cheap and came with a driveshaft

 

the whole "endless" vs "masterlink" debate is confusion based on outdated info. At the time your manual was written riveted chains were stronger and manufacturers were dumping more and more HP into bikes. These days better alloys and manufacturing techniques make masterlink chains perfectly viable.
I'm big on adding little touches here and there that make the bike easier to service "just in case" on the side of the road and boy howdy I'd rather deal with a little clip than carry the whole breaker/rivet setter tool all the time, much less drop out the rear axle if I didn't have to.

I felt the same as Fitz until I started riding a Virago and only then did I notice what I wasn't having to do all the time anymore. I'm pretty sure the weight difference is more in the 20-30 lb department since when you weigh the housing, shaft and gears it would be only fair to subtract a normal swingarm, chain and sprocket.
Mine's got plenty enough GO!!!! for me to get into trouble and then some so for me at least, it's academic.

 

The original DID part number for your bike is DID520VL2-110LE, so I would guess you need 110 links.

I know chacal carries RK for his standard chain, rated at 7700 lbs; that's what I'm running on the 550s, although they run a 530 if I remember correctly.

That being said, according to the DID website, and your part number from the Yamaha fiche, a DID520V would also work just fine. Although Bike Bandit is a tad high: http://www.shopmotorcycleonlinestore.co ... logId=-534

You might want to consider RK: http://www.shopmotorcycleonlinestore.co ... logId=-534 compare prices and specs...


No, a riveted master link requires that the ends of the pins be staked over ("riveted") like the pins in the rest of the chain. This requires a special tool OR it can be done with a hammer and punch but it requires experience that I don't have enough of to depend on. Can't do it with just a c-clamp.

 

Thanks to all for the great info... and bigfitz, you saved me 30 bucks... I owe you a beer I guess.

Check this out:

http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/ ... -tool.html

Not to beat a dead horse... but I'd rather spend the 100 bucks on a GPS.