wet plug?

My number 4 cylinder plug is always wet,what could be the options I have to fix this problem?

 

What is it wet with?
Gas? Oil? Both?
It could be something as simple as float that needs adjustment or as serious as new piston rings all depends on what its wet with.

 

looks like gas to me

 

Time to remove and clean the carbs. The float or carb slide on #4 is not working. Search the forums there are excelent articles on carb rebuilding.

 

Yup if it's gas check you slide/diaphram and your float height.
looks like a carb cleaning is due. I'm in the same boat as you are right now. It's time for me to clean my carbs.

 

i guess you tried a new plug already ?

 

I thought they weren't bad,but this really started the last time I messed with the float level. Now I'm getting a charcoal plug.

 

Please use the Location and Signature Section of Your Account.

Location?

Signature:

Year ... Model ... Miles ... Stock or Mods ... Remarks.

Makes it easier to get help.

Is your Petcock Line hooked-up to the #-4 Manifold?

 

My #4 is also doing this but only when I ride on the interstate. 5500 RPM's about 20 min. in lose the cylinder. Pull off on the ramp and it goes away. I need to clean my carbs and tune them I hope.

 

No I haven't tried a new plug yet. could be fouled out? sorry I haven't figured out how to add my info.

 

When the tiny AIR Metering Ports of the Main Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) become clogged ... the Main AIR Supply diminishes.

The AIR ... which normally enters from the cavity surrounding the Nozzle through the Nozzle's 16-20 Ports ... helping to siphon FUEL from the Main Jet Supply and Emulsify it ... so it enters the Intake Air Stream as a MIST, ... gets BLOCKED-OFF which causes the Fuel from the Main Jet to enter the Intake Stream in a Droplet Form, ... close to a Liquid state.

When you crank-it-up ... a Carb with a stopped-up Emulsion Tube will let gas flow into the Combustion Chamber like babbling brook, ... wet fouling the Plug and sometimes letting the hole re-fire at lower rpm's.

 

ok so I tore the carbs apart and can't really find anything that looks out of place. The only thing I notice is that the one diaphragm just acts kinda weird to me and that is the one I'm getting carboned up. So I'm gonna try to move it to another carb and see what happens. Just don't see anything wrong with it. Oh and they all clunk ok.

 

You can "Clean-up" the Diaphragm Bores without removing the Rack off the Bike.

Just get some ScotchBrite (Gray) and cut a strip just a little wider than your finger.
Scrub the Bores.

 

It acts fine the first couple times I push it up and down. This is with it all together on the carb,but after that it acts like the diaphram isn't sealing. I turned the piston upside down and fliped the diaphram up to hold water to see if there was a pin hole. I can't find any leaks.

 

Maybe the Diaphragm --> ISN'T sealing.

Try smearing the Diaphragm Lip Locating Channel with a very thin smear of Waterproof Grease or Dielectric Grease to act as BOTH an Adhesive and Sealant.

The idea is to keep the Diaphragm Rubber in place, ... in its locating channel ... while the Carb Hat is positioned and tightened-down.

Also ... examine the Exit at the Top of the Emulsion Tube where the Diaphragm Needle extends into. If the Hole is severely "Egg-shaped" and visibly --> Out-of-Round ... replace that Emulsion Tube and any others that are showing their age and look out of round.

 

Well I thought I had the problem fixed,but my needle valve must still not be seating. When the bike sits my fuel line empties and my #4 plug is always wet. Is there a trick or does some new needles and seats just not seat?

 

take the seat out, get some 000 or 0000 steel wool and a q-tip, pull some cotton off the q-tip and wrap some steel wool on it,push it in the
seat and give it 10 or 20 spins, clean it all up then look at where the
little pin hits the float tang and make sure it's smooth so the pin can slide smoothly on it
that should do it

 

I successfully "Lapped-in" a Float Needle and Seat, some years back.

Get a New Pencil
Cut it clean-off 2-Inches below the Eraser.
Chuck the Pencil in your Drill and hold the Eraser to some Sand Paper.
Sand the Eraser to Narrow it down a little bit.
The Eraser needs to be Flat and sort-of pointed.

Now, use a Brand New Razor and put a Shallow Cut on the end.
Cross Hair cut half way through the Eraser.

Then, ... all you have to do is take the Wire off the Float Pin ...
Stick the Float Pin in the Cr0os Haired cut.
Add a "Touch of Rubbing Compound" to the Tip of your finger and stuff it in the Back side of the Float Valve.

SET THE DRILL TO RUN S-L-O-W to Medium.
Put the PIN in the Valve Body
Spin it.
Stuff the Back-side with Compound.

Badda-bing; badda-boom.

After this, ... if it don't leak ... take any prize off the bottom shelf.

If it STILL leaks, ... fuh-gedd-dah-bod-dit!

It's ruined.