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Fork cap removal

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Swissjon, Aug 8, 2010.

  1. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    Ok, I'm in the process of replacing the oil, and eventually the seals, in my front forks. (I hope) My bike is a 1985 XJ 750 engine with a XJ 900 frame.

    I took the black plastic caps off the tops of the forks and came accross a hex socket. Not having an allen key the correct size, at this point I decided to undo the drain screws and empty out the gunk inside overnight.

    Anyways, this morning I welded together a large bolt and a nut that were the right size, and tried to undo the cap. I've a large torque wrench, so I was able to get a fair amount of purchase on it, but the thing wouldn't budge.. When I say I managed to get a fair amount of purchase, I mean it.. I pushed so hard on the torque wrench that the bolt snapped (This is an M12 Bolt I believe!) So I was really going for it.

    So what have I done wrong here? Or are these caps just soooo stuck in place that I should be looking for new forks? Can I fill the forks from the drain bolt and just live with them weeping?

    Any help would be really appreiated.
     
  2. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    They can be real tight if they have been on there for awhile. Don't bother with new forks just go and buy the right size wrench. Leaving the forks on the bike and having a friend sit on it will give you some extra stability to get them out. You won't be able to refill them with oil properly without removing the cap. Its a good idea to dissamble and clean the inside of the forks if it has never been done. They will work so much better if you do.
     
  3. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    If you didn't already, loosen the top clamps on the triple tree. It makes a big difference.
     
  4. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    I managed it.. I moved the handlebars out of the way and slid the forks all the way up the yoke (tree) and found a bolt that was big enough to give me lots of purchase.. With a bit of grunting, I got it out. Thanks Carl, your tip worked.

    Next on the agenda is to fabricate a damper rodholding tool. Anyone got an idea what size hex there is down there?
     
  5. rpgoerlich

    rpgoerlich Member

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    19mm or ¾" will work.
     
  6. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    Unfortunately 19mm doesn't work, nor does 22mm and I've nothing in between. Oh well. I've put some cheap fork oil in there for now, I got a fairly heavy one 15w.. So I'll probably want to change it soon anyhow, in the meanwhile I'll go looksee in my local hardware store.
     
  7. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    You have to HOLD the Damper with the long-reach Tool and RELEASE the damper by removing the CAP SCREW at the very bottom of the Fork.

    There's a hole drilled in the bottom of the Lower Fork to allow access to the Cap Screw from underneath.

    Just trying to undo the Damper from within the Fork often WILL NOT release it.

    The Damper must be held from turning.
    The Cap Screw is then removed releasing the damper.
     

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