Torque Spec's for steering head XJ650J

I'm replacing my steering head bearings and need the torque values for steering head. The spanner nuts, top bolt and pinch bolt.

D

 

The Bearing Mfg. put a Torque Value on the Bearings so that you will --> TIGHTEN the Bearings and SET them. Once the Bearings are SET the age-old rule is applied.

Install the Races.
Pack the Bearings and replace the Steering Stem
Install the Upper Bearings. Add the Upper Plate.

Here, you should ...
Tighten the Lower Steering Stem Nut using a Spanner if yo have one.
KEEP tightening slowly while moving the Steering Head ... Lock to Lock ... Tightening if the maneuver causes the Races to further seat.
Moving the Steering Head back and forth ""Feeling"" the Bearings tighteneng and eventually BINDING.

When yo have Tightened the Steering Stem to the POINT where the Bearings are Bindning ...
LOOSEN the Nut.
Loose enough to be able to be turned with your fingers.

Lastly ... (But, you'll revisit this step in 500 Miles) ...

Tighten the NUT by hand.
Apply the Spanner and add: ...
JUST ENOUGH TIGHTENING to assure the Bearings are snug in their Races ... with NO Free Play.

Use your Pinky Finger on the End of the Spanner.

The PROPER Adjustment is just enough pressure on the Lower Nut to assure there is NO Freeplay.

The Lower Nut is used to Adjust the Bearings to ZERO Freeplay.
The UPPER Nut ==> Locks the Pair.

Once you find ZERO Freeplay and the UPPER Nut is where it needs to be and needs to be locked.
Hold the bottom Nut and have an assistant place the UPPER Nut in place.

Hold the Lower Nut FIRMLY in Position with the Spanner.
Have the Assistant ""Tap"" onn a Spanner Cog with a Suitable Drift Pin until tight.

 

whats the definition of 'Spanner' nut? Lock nut?

 

The lock nuts are spanner nuts...like these:
http://www.thread-rite.com/sps_nuts/spanner.htm

 

I almost forgot, in addition to what Rick mentions above, I do another test.

with the front wheel off the ground, no play at the bearing, you can 'bounce' the stearing head off one of the side locks/limit points. if the head Juuust reaches the other side of the steering lock, it's good. point is, it shouldn't be a violent bounce and should be too restricted. I don't have the manual in front of me but torque vaules for fort tube pinch bolts were surprisingly low 'to me'. I think around 12-18 lbs. no need to hercules them

 

ok...The bearings I'm using are from "ALL BALLS"
What torque should I "pre-load" or "Set" these at?

SNIP_The Bearing Mfg. put a Torque Value on the Bearings so that you will --> TIGHTEN the Bearings and SET them._SNIP

 

You don't have to "Torque" the New Bearings.

You have to TIGHTEN the Bearings until the BIND.

Since the BOTTOM Bearing Race is going to "Bed In" after some time and need the Free Play removed; all you need to do is get the Free Play out the first time.

After you ride the Bike for 400-500 Miles ... you REVISIT the Steering Bearings Tightness.

That is when you manipilate the Front Wheel examining the Headset for any play.

The SUGGESTION that the Bottom Lock Nut NEEDS to be TORQUED is intended to make you think you NEED a Steering Stem Lock Nut Spanner with a convenient 3/8" Socket Wrench Fitting they add-on to the sale.

The sell you a Tool that you don't need, and tell you to apply an arbitrary Torque Value to their SPECIAL Bearings for about one minute or less, ...

Until you BACK-OFF from that phony torque load that, ...

Didn't-need-no-torque-wrench-anyway tightness, they told you was needed, to con you into buying their espensive special wrench, they sell at 300% markup, that you really never needed in the first place.