Chain rubbing on center stand XJ550Seca ???

:evil: so, I just noticed after I bought this bike the other day that the chain is pretty fricken loose. I then looked closer after a ride and noticed the chain is resting on the center kick stand when the stand is tucked away. I know I need to tighten the chain now but does anyone like the center stand? What will I lose/gain by removing it? Thanks!

PNelson

 

the only thing you'll lose is the ability to put bike on the center stand. i guess that's your option.

i thought it came in real handy at times. specially if your at an angle on soft ground of parked in some rocks or something that using the kickstand could actually sink in.

it kinda sucks that the newer bikes don't have center stands. and the kickstands can really lean low sometimes.

i'd just tighten the chain. it's not that hard.

 

Alright, cool, thanks for the response!

 

If the Chain is resting on the Center Stand ... you have a MAJOR Problem that you need to address.

Removing the Center Stand ain't going to make the problem get any better.

You probably need:

A New Chain
A New Front and Rear Sprocket.

Look and see if all the Adjustment is taken-up.
Inspect the Sprockets.
If they look closer to letter "C's" than they look like "U's" you need to replace the Sprockets and probably get a New Chain.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 29,r:3,s:0

That much SLACK can cause you to "Slip the Chain" and have a wreck.
Don't ride until you get to the bottom of the situation.

Having that much SLACK in a Chain can definitely get you hurt!!!

 

OK: How many miles on this bad boy again?

Your chain should have between 40mm-50mm free play, measured at the tightest point, when the bike is on the CENTERSTAND. Check immediately and adjust if necessary.

You also check the oil level on the CENTERSTAND.

Point: KEEP the centerstand. But you have to address something, your problem may be elsewhere:

You have a 4-1 exhaust, don't you? The stock LEFT muffler (which you no longer have IIRC) has a stop bumper on it that keeps the centerstand from coming UP too far and fouling the chain. This is not an uncommon issue for owners fitting a 4-1; the "kit" that comes with most systems includes a bracket to duplicate the function. Problem is, few can figure out what it's for and simply pitch it.

You can easily fabricate an "up-stop" for your stand to solve the problem; a simple 3" long "L" shaped bit mounted to the rear of your left passenger footpeg bracket mount will do the trick. The stand needs to be just about parallel to the ground in the 'up' position.

Now back to the chain and sprockets. How many miles on this bad boy?

 

If you are going to do any serious riding, you need to change the chain, front & rear sprockets, as a set, keep the centre stand (work stand), as Fitz said, check there is a 'stop' for the stand in the closed possition.
That 40 to 50mm slack is 20mm up & 20mm down, not in any one direction.

 

While were taking bets on how severe this situation is, ... I have a vision of a dry, light-brown chain draped between two well-worn sprockets and the rear wheel adjusters maxed-out.

If your situation is anything close to this, ... get yourself some new Sprockets and an O-Ring Chain.

If you ride a Chain Drive Bike you have to be acutely aware of the condition of the Drive Chain.
As the Chain gets some hours on it, the slack needs to be adjusted to the recommended limit.
As the Slack is adjusted out of the Chain you can Monitor the progress by observing the Markers on the top-side at the rear of the Swing Arm.

As the Indicator shows that the Rear Axle has been moved back to the further markings on the frame; you begin a close scrutiny of the condition of BOTH Sprockets to replace them when they show moderate wear.

 

Rick, the sprockets look good and last night I tightened the chain and all seems well now, I appreciate the concern.

Fitz, I have a little over 11k on this badboy.

Rick, my rear adjust was hardly even adjusted, it is at about half way out now. The O-Ring chain is definitely something I want to get, thanks for reminding me, I forgot the O-Ring chain wasn't invented yet for this badboy. The chain was a little brown but no rust. I lubed it up and it looks and rides like new.

Man, each day, I'm liking this Forum more and more, you guys are awesome!

 

COOL.

Now let's talk chain and sprockets for a sec:

At 11K miles, you may be getting near the end of life of the chain and sprockets, both from wear, and depending on how it was maintained and how long it sat, and in what condition.

When a chain-drive bike sits for a long time with a dry chain, the chain will invariably rust internally and thus compromise its strength once put back in service. The rust may not be obvious on the outside but it doesn't mean the pins aren't rusted inside the bushings.

KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON YOUR CHAIN for the next few hundred miles. If you notice that it won't seem to stay adjusted, and/or if it bleeds red all over the rag when you lube it, you'll need to replace it.

Once it's worn out (which it's gonna be in another 3000 miles at the most if it's not already,) then it will be time to replace it. To check chain and sprocket wear: With the bike on the centerstand (chain hanging free) grasp the pin of a link at the 3:00 position and pull straight rearward, as in the diagram. If you can see more than 1/2 of the adjacent sprocket teeth, it's time to replace the chain and sprockets.




ALWAYS REPLACE THE CHAIN AND BOTH SPROCKETS AS A SET.

O-ring chains seem (to me anyway) to be overrated. I've not found anyone who has had an appreciably longer service life from an o-ring chain compared to a properly maintained standard chain to justify the additional cost.

I'm running standard chain and sprockets on both of my 550s and have no complaints. I've ridden chain-drive bikes for over 40 years and never had an o-ring chain yet.