Clear coating engine parts

I am in the middle of polishing the engine side covers for my xj. I wont be able to do routine polishing on this like it will probably need. Anyone have any recommendations on clear coat? I have noticed Krylon clear doenst dull the appearance really but I dont know if that would be safe to use on the engine covers. Does the engine get too hot for some types of clear?

Preferably I would want to use a rattle can.

 

I gave-up on Clear-coating the Bright Alloy.

I polished the heck out of them and leave them alone.
When they look like they need to be brightened, ... I bring-out the Mothers and Buffer.

There's a lot of claims made by Companies that make Clear.
Handles heat. Sun resistant.

If you have the Parts off and they're all looking good. You can bloow some Clear on them to help keep them nice and shiny.

But, the Clear looks like you polished the Parts real nice and then put them in Plastic wrapping.

When somebody gets up close and looks at the shine they see that you Clear Coated the Parts.
If you Polish the parts and pimp them regularly, ... when you look at the Part you see reflections of Clouds and trees.

 

Ya... maybe I should just leave it alone. One less step.

 

+1
On no clear coat. It doesn't take much to shine it up again when it does get a little dull.

I use Mothers too, with success.

 

I agree. Clearcoat was what made it get funky to begin with. I've seen covers that were horribly grey, UNDER the tenacious clearcoat.

Mothers' Billet Metal Polish; no clearcoat.

 

No experience with it, but a product called ZoopSeal might help you out.... anyone here used it before?

http://www.zoopseal.com/

 

Whats to stop it from oxidizing again? Will polish alone remove oxidation?

 

Yes.

 

I gave up on the clear coat also. Polish and a coat of wax keeps it shiny.

 

I guess I should know that already. Everytime I polish it, the rag turns black lol.

 

Oh ya, before I open a thread to ask. Is the brake lever the same situation? Is it just metal that is polished and cleared? Thats the way it seems. I need to redo that as well and I dont want to try to polish something that might cause complications.

 

just polish it .i have been polishing aluminum for the past 30 years or so most of the oxidation comes from getting it wet and not drying it off so be sure the first thing you wipe off is the aluminum after washing it if you do that everytime you should be able to go a year or 2 before re polishing it. just make sure when you polish to get all the oxidation off or it will come back. if you sand it before polishing sand it till the dark oxidation is completely gone before you polish . Motor parts and wheels are easy to take care of some types of aluminum i call it cheap aluminum will tarnish quickly i had problems with my vmax side air scoops your best off with parts like that are just to have them chromed .Also what helps motor parts from oxidation after polishing is the heat keeps the moisture off of them.
Also when you clear cote after polishing all the polish has to be off or the paint does not stick. paint doesnt stick to shiny parts tends to bubble and run wich is a big let down after all that worki it can be done but takes practice and luck

 

On most of these bikes the rear brake lever is chrome plated steel, rather crudely "polished" before plating.

If you mean handlebar control levers, like brake and clutch, then it would apply. (If they're not black.)

Before re-polishing any once-clearcoated aluminum, you've got to get the old clear coat off. Aircraft paint stripper works the best.