Bike dying while riding

so my bike just stops working sometimes almost like i hit the kill switch. the only way to get it going again is to turn the key off then on again. when it dies and i pull over if i dont touch the key, the neutral light stays on and so does the headlight. just no power to the plugs i guess. anybody have this problem before? btw i just replaced the fuse box.

 

Was it doing this before you replaced the fuse box? Or is it a new problem? Could be several things going on, bad switches or loose wiring connectors, TCI issues, relays. The list goes on. Run the bike on the centerstand and pull and poke at the wiring and relays to see if you can get it to cut off. Maybe you can isolate a problem area.

 

Double check the connector in the headlight that the ignition switch plugs into. I had that happen and it was a bad connection. You can test it by starting the bike up and bend or move the connector around. When the bike shuts off you found the area where the problem is.

MN

 

Revisit the work you did replacing the Fuse Panel.
That's where I'd go first.

Then, ... I'd get a can of Contact Re-New and attack all the Connections and Switches.

"Feel" the Kill Switch.
Does it move smoothly, ... or is there a little "Catch" to it?
If the Kill Switch has a catch in it, ... It might be coming apart.

Plus, ... your Bike is an '81
You need to pull the Alternator Cover and check the Brushes.

Spray Contact Re-New right in the Key Slot of the Ignition Switch.

http://doitbest.com/Degreasers+and+part ... 589322.dib

 

Classic TCI issue. Could be bad solder joints and/or capacitors starting to fail. Swap out the capacitors and touch up the solder joints. Or, like Rick said, others have had problem with their kill switch (loose wire, if memory serves).

 

My bike has done this a couple times.
The first time was exactly as you mentioned - quit - pulled over - shut bike off- sat for a minute - turned key and fired right up.

The second time - I realized all I had to do was make sure the key was fully in the "ON" position. Seems as though my ignition may be "loose" so to speak. Until I fix this, I've just been reaching up and making sure the vibration of riding isn't turning the key "off"

 

Does it start right back up?

I've seen bikes with the timing so badly advanced, they would start to overheat and "soft seize", get tight and just die out while running.

Would have to cool off for a while before they'd crank over again...

 

Timing is fixed on the XJ series. Either it's right or you have a major problem.

The problem is almost certainly electrical based on the description; unfortunately it could be ANYWHERE. The side stand switch could be flaky, suddenly thinking the stand is down and killing the bike.

ANYTHING electrical is possible; I would start by unplugging the safety relay and seeing if it reoccurs. It may have nothing to do with the ignition system itself.

OR

 

OK, I knew mine was, wasn't sure about earlier models...

 

Thanks for the help everyone... OK so i rode my bike since i replaced the ignition. i haven't had the dying problem while cruising but i do still have some idol issues. Its really frustrating so i have decided to rebuild my carbs. So i Have a few questions. 1. can i get the link for the instructions on how to adjust my float bowls. 2. If i rebuild do i need to play with mixture screws or can I just do a bench sync and float adjust?

3. not relating to carbs but you guys kept mentioning it... what is a TCI?

 

Good to hear... like Fitz said, the problem could have been anywhere.

1. It's still a work in progress, but try this: Setting fuel levels

2. Abso-fragging-lutely you'll be playing with the mixture screws.

Transistor Controlled Ignition. Also referred to as the Ignitor Box -- it sends voltage to the ignition coils to fire them. It also controls ignition timing. Kinda sorta like an automotive distributor.