Free XJ650...what needs to be done for sure?

Ok, so my dad gave me his 1980 Maxim XJ650. It's been sitting for 5 or 6 years. I turned off the gas and tried to start...the engine does in fact turn.

So, I know I need to drain gas, probably get new gas filter, new plugs, and change the oil. Will the carbs have to be cleaned? Is that something I can do myself, or have someone do fairly inexpensively?

Also, the front brake squeezes all the way to the throttle with no resistance. The front wheel feels like the caliper is squeezing some, but not enough to lock the wheel. The brake handle has to be manually returned to the "open" position. Will one of the rebuild kits probably fix this or am I looking at buying a new one?

Some parts I know need to be replaced...the left mirror mount, the seat grab bar, the seat, misc little emblems.

I've never owned a bike, never driven a bike, and never worked on a bike...but I am very mechanical, so I'm hoping to get it into riding condition mostly myself, but any helpful hints and things to do or look for are appreciated!

 

carbs have to be cleaned. gas turns to varnish and gums up the carbs. you might be in for some scraping inside the carbs. you'll also want to make sure the fuel switch isn't gummed up.

my kz900 was completely filled with slime inside the carbs after sitting for who knows how long.

get the bike running first. then move onto the rest of the stuff. you may change your mind and decide not to keep the bike for whatever reason.

check the brake reservoir for fluid. it might be empty. or very old fluid. start with a fluid change to see what happens. then go from there. you may end up rebuilding the calipers AND reservoir with new seals. and quite possibly new pistons in the caliper. and even new front brakes.

you'll also be recommended for valve adjustment and new rear brakes. the old brakes if they are original will be coming apart from there mounting plates. and maybe even generator brushes.

a complete fluid change should be a must. brake fluid, oil, final drive assembly. AND, fresh gas.

don't forget a new battery. and new plugs. a new fuse box wouldn't hurt either. and check your charging system when you get the bike running.

and lastly, A REPAIR MANUAL will walk you through everything.

 

You'll want to get new tires too. Old tires no matter how good they look aren't always safe to ride on. They start to break down inside. Do like I did. Replace the front and rear brakes and both tires. Snowwy66 was right on with his suggestions too. Lots of work ahead but it will be worth it.

 

++^^^ Here here on both accounts, although I would put the book at the top of the list.

 

You've already done the best thing you possibly can by joining this site. Tons of info on this site. I didn't know much but had the ambition and now I have practically rebuilt my bike. Just a little side note, I have a bunch of parts so if there is anything you need and you don't mind used then I might be able to help you. If I can't or if you'd just rather get new then look up the user Chacal. He runs XJ4EVER and is a great guy. I've spent at least $600 with him and have been satisfied with every piece received. Good luck with your build and most of all have fun.

 

if it was parked with a partial tank of fuel, the exposed parts of the tank interior are probably solid rust.

This will shed into the fuel once you fill it up. Run an external filter in the line if this is the case, or you'll be having more carb troubles all the time.

There's a way to clean a tank out with hydrochloric acid, but I've never done it. They can also be coated with a product I can't remember the name of at the moment.

Once you get that front brake working, check the hose for cracks or to see if it balloons when you squeeze the lever. You don't want it to blow up when you need it.

Don't bottom out the brake lever against the grip, you can damage the bore and seals. I had a helluva time getting mine to bleed when i changed the fluid. If you run into this, I'll describe what ended up working, just holler.

 

Dude... welcome to the club... you got a lot of fun (and some aggrivation) ahead of you. I have yet to have a question that wasnt answered quickly and accurately. If you are thinking of doing all or most of this yourself... save yourself some aggrivation and drop $100 on a bike jack. Everything else mentioned sounds like a good start, but i agree. Don't pick up any tools until you get a manual. That's probably the tool i use the most

 

I'd dissagree with the above, I bought the manual and its a POS. Waste of money, spend the time searching on here and save the 20 bux.

 

Depends what kind you get. Factory manuals are great.

Clymer's will screw you up worse than not knowing what you're doing.

Haynes are kinda in the middle...useful, but not overly so.

 

Thanks for the advice! Where can one pick up the factory manual? I'll probably do all the work myself. I ordered the Haynes last night.

 

I use the Haynes primarily with the factory manual as a backup (better diagrams). I have used the Haynes quite happily for near 20 years. I'm not impressed with the Clymer manual.

 

I should specify... i have a factory manual... i've never looked at the others. I'm also fairly new at this. Mechanically inclined, a bunch of small engine work and minor car repairs. Never anything this big....

 

Don't be daunted, tear into it after a bit of research! I know that the gang here is very interested in seeing you succed (or at least I know I am).

 

Phosphoric acid. That works real good. I did it on mine. You buy it for like 15 bucks at home depot, like in the cement/driveway cleaner area is where I found it. It's in a big bottle, called concrete etcher. You can dilute it about 50/50 with water and let it sit in the tank for a bit, making sure it's all the way full. It not only takes rust off but coats the tank with rust-resistant layer. Neutralize the acid with some baking soda and water when you drain it. Nice thing about this method is that phosphoric, especially diluted, isn't as corrosive as muriatic or hydrochloric acid, and you can pour it down the drain(it's in coca-cola after all) but wear gloves anyway.