Valve Adjustment

Hey everyone,

Okay, I know it is probably in here somewhere but I get so many hits I can't find it.

Does anyone know where to find good detail instructions on how to check and adjust my valve clearances.

Thanks...

Dave...

 

All the really good stuff is still stuck in "FAQ Suggestions."

Here you go: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

 

Thanks bigfitz,

Now at least I know what to do. I didn't have a clue until now.

 

Two things that make it a lot easier: METRIC feeler gauges and BRIGHT lighting. And take your time.

 

I used bigfitz's FAQ when I checked my valve clearances and can say it really made the job easier. Check out further down that thread for the Zip Tie Tool to assist with removing the shims. If you do not have the Yamaha shim removal tool this works great. Just make sure you use a nice thick zip tie so it doesn't break in the cylinder.

 

Okay I looked at the instructions on this page:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

Now I don't understand how to use the chart. In these instructions (which are amazing) the guy has an EX gap of .006 and his shim has the number Y250. So I am assuming that you go to the chart and find the shim number (11th across) then go down and find the gap (2nd down) and you get the number 245. So does that mean I replace my Y250 shim with a 245 shim.

If this is so then how do you take into account shim wear on the old shim?

Any help explaining how to use this chart would be appreciated. Oh and does anyone have a chart for a xj1100. I understand they are different.

Thanks.

Dave...

 

I just finished correcting valve clearances this past weekend.

The instructions are a big help, but be sure that you have everything cleared out of the way and the right tools in hand before you start.

Taking off the choke cable helped clear up some additional room to work around and reach the inner valve shims, and make sure that you have a high quality flat head screwdriver in hand that is strong enough to pry up the shims from their seat.

The chart is simple.

Find the matching shim number on the top row. The left column shows you the corresponding shim that will give you that clearance. Look for the in spec and you know the new number you need.

You can measure the wear on the old shim with a caliper, but the dealership I traded the shims with didn't really seem to think that it made a difference. After changing in the new shims, using the chart as a guide, I re-measured the clearances and they were exactly where they should have been.

 

another reason to use a stout one is that it needs to be thick enough to hold the valve fully open. if the valve shuts too much as the cam comes off the there is no clearance to get the shim out.

 

If you absolutely have to go shoving something down the plug 'ole, which I personally do not recommend, then use a piece of #12 insulated solid electrical wire. (House wire.) A nice long piece, and just put a kink in one end to slip under the lip of the valve.

 

I have reservations though for different reasons than Fitz. His fear of shaking loose some carbon IS valid. I'm timid of putting side load on those trumpets. They're stout enough to withstand a bomb-strike in certain directions but are amazingly fragile in others. To allay my fears I put in a zip-tie on each side of the stem. To allay his I run a clean, tuned motor with next to no fouling.

 

I figure the factory knew a little bit about the bikes they built.

If the plug hole option was best, then the factory tool would be a long "J" shaped thingie, most likely with a "soft" end of some sort.

But it's not.

 

Thanks guys,

I think I get it now.

Dave...

 

Dave,

I have a valve shim tool for my 650 and live in the Kitchen(er), not sure if it will help but you're welcome to use it.