Electrical ?s - Want to add AUX power - Key on only

So I want to easily & cleanly add an AUX power line into my 6th fuse panel slot. (IE cigarette lighter for usb phone charger use).

Can I:
A ) Tap off the "Main Line" just before the fuse panel and run my tap to its own fuse?
B ) Or Just after the 30 A fuse and feed it back into its own new fuse?
C ) Tap off somewhere just after the circuit that sends power when the key is turned? (The name and location elude me currently at 1am).
D ) Other?

Also should I add a simple on/off switch for this AUX power line?

FYI: I'm also attempting to replace normal bulbs with LED to help with the extra power usage. (Keeping turn signals non-led for now).

 

I ran a separate line direct from the battery + to the new fuse/circuit. That then goes to the relay for controlling whatever the load.
The switch controlling it gets it's power from a switched lead - in this case the headlight circuit - so it only works when the engines actually running.

If this is for something like a power outlet, you could do the same thing but just use the headlight circuit to turn on the relay (eliminate the switch) so the outlet is only live when running.

 

why not wire the adapter right in, then tuck the wire away and pull it out when you need it
if you make it come on with the key your battery won't last long with the lights on unless the engine's running
the adapter by itself won't hurt the battery, mine's sat for 2 weeks with no effect just take out that fuse for the winter

 

Polock:

1. To get to my fuse panel I have to take off my right saddle bag to unlock my seat.
2. Since its an ebay purchase, I'm not sure if the adaptor will ALWAYS suck up a little power to light up its little power indicator.
2a. If that is the case, just having it installed directly WILL drain the battery.
2b. This is why i wanted to have the adaptor power up WITH the key (yes it will have its own fuse).
3. I hope to tuck the actual adaptor under the seat if it fits and I'll have a UBS extension wire to charge my phone (main use for adaptor).

Altus I was thinking of a simple ON/OFF switch (via Pos wire), if that don't work I will grab a relay so I don't fry anything.

Regardless, I'd still like to power up the adaptor only when the key is turn - or ignition on (would be ideal).

 

Was it you who posted up about the PDU a while back?

Maybe in your case it might not be a bad idea.

Keep in mind one thing: The XJ's electrical system is RIGHT AT the ragged edge of its capacity as it comes from the factory. You need to be very careful that you don't overload the old girl and smoke your harness, seriously.

Go easy on the lighting ok?

 

PDU?

I did post that hitting the brakes and turn signals dims the headlights significantly. I still need to check the brushes and charging but I fried my first multimeter /doh

LED brake lights seem to have helped.

Bare minimum I want to charge my phone via cig lighter usb charger.

 

why don't you just put a 12 volt lighter plug in one of the saddle bags and be done with it
you could even get a new phone and not have to change anything, then get a plug and put it on your battery tender and use it to charge the battery then get one of those led lights and have light in the saddle bag
the possibilities are endless, i want one now

 

To alleviate some confusion:



My intent is the cut off the lighter plug, hard wire it into the relay/fuse pane.

Then I could (alternator permitting) charge 2x cell phones (me and my wife) with either a usb cord or auto charger plug for our phones (phones have mini usb input).

The cut off plug could be soldered to other LED lights for situational use if I so desire.

No one is quite answered how/where I can tap in the POS so they adapter only works after I turn key or after ignition. (I don't know exactly where the wires are).

 

You can Power the Plug-In Device by tapping into Haress wires inside the Headlight Bucket which will be easy to do.

The RED Wires are +12 Volts (Hot) +B

The RED Wires w/ White Runner are + 12 Volts (Switched).

 

GOOD to know. PM sent to avoid excessive confusing questions here.

 

One caution -- if you're going to be cutting off the plug for direct wiring, make sure the voltage regulation circuitry is in the body of that unit, and not in the plug!

USB spec is very specific to a controlled 4.4 V to 5.25 V at a max of 500 mA

 

I popped open the plug to check wire colors before I chop it. No circuitry in the actual plug.

I'm gonna put it back together and test it in my car before I get it anywhere near my XJ's wiring harness.

 

I didn't think he's cutting the plug off the acutal charger but rather the socket he's got the picture of.

The USB control circuit should be in the charger cable. That splitter just splits one 12v socket to two.

 

Yes I plan on cutting the plug off the device pictured above.

I own both Cigarette lighter phone chargers and usb cables that can charge my phone.

The "device's usb plugs" are rated for 5v 2a for the usb outlets "for faster charging" will this potentially hurt my phone? Worse case I'll just use the Cigarette lighter car charger meant for my phone.

NOTE: IF still confused, look at the picture again - It has 2x 12v plugs and 2x usb plugs - the reason I purchased it...

 

I did miss the USB plugs in your socket. Their control circuits are probably still in the big end and not the plug. As for hurting the phone, I don't know.

 

If this will be too much load on the charging system, you might be able to find a higher amp rated stator to handle the increased demand. Check with your local automotive electric rebuilder for the stator, also you will need a heavy duty rectifier.

 

As I mentioned I still need to check and/or replace brushes.

I have already replaced the two tailights with a LED cluster. Last night I ordered led Atari cluster lights. My semi custom aux driving/fog lights will be LED. I'm not switching to LED turn signals YET, but I might.

Basically I've made an effort to lower my load so I can charge my phone and add extra LED lights as desired. ;-)

 

Almost put LED tail light on mine but wasn't bright enough, guess you have to do a good bit of searching and be willing to shell out more money.

 

My taillight cluster was around $24 and I installed with L brackets and super duty Velcro.
I also have super bright semi trailer tail lights on my touring trunk. So that makes up for any brightness loss.

Also my tail light is perfect for rear firing lights. So if the cluster does not work out I have my eye on some 4watt led bulbs on eBay. I'D need two so it would be bright.

 

I installed a cigarette lighter jack for my GPS with a a small Radio Shack 12 Volt relay using switched power from my headlight bucket and power directly from the battery with an inline fuse...simple and works great. If you are concerned about over taxing the alternator, switch to LED back-lighting on your instruments. Changing two 3.2 watt incandescent bulbs to LED's will free up approximately 6 watts of power for your aux power port.