FINALLY ! ! ! ! CARBS Done!

:arrow: I ordered my carb rebuild kits today I CAN'T WAIT !!!! :mrgreen:

Ill post some pics and vids of the progress once i get them set up and ill have to make a vid of the revival when i reinstall and push that button ! ! !

 

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did you get a good deal on the parts?

 

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Take that little metal disk and chuck it. You don't want to cap off your pilot adjustment screws.

 

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disc is getting chucked, i paid $44.50 for 4 kits plus shipping so it came to $49 even

 

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Did those come from Carb Kit Capitol?

 

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Place called Sporting For Less in Olean. NY

 

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Iam still trying to figure out why there is 3 O rings, on the old needle seats there is only one.

 

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1 for the pilot/needle jet 1 for the needle seat 1 for the float drain screw

 

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Is that significantly cheaper than Chacal? (I haven't starting pricing actual parts yet).

 

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Seems like a good deal, Thanks for the info.

 

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Iam not sure of chacals price, i did not look, i did request parts priceing from him but i got 3 emails on stuff and it was abit confusing.

 

Finally got my carbs all back together, Tomorrow is the big DAY!!!

 

Is it me or are you missing the copper washer under your main jet? I ask since I haven't a clue about 550 carbs.

 

I'll have to pull a bowl off my 700x carbs to be sure, but I think the washer fits inside the tube that the jet goes into.

 

Roberts right washer missing under jet. Wrong bowl Schumck

 

Damn, those are so clean it seems wrong

 

There is a washer under each jet ^_^
If your reffering to the last photo, that is the needle seat.

 

Is the washer resting on a counter bore sholder or does it rest on the emulsion tube? On the 650/700/750 carbs, there is a copper washer that rests against the carb jet bore opening, pulling the emulsion tube tightly against the body using the main jet as the fastener.

 

Yep the washer holds it to the main body and the main jet keeps it all tight.

 

Thanks! Now I know a little more about 550 carbs. Nice work by the way. I hope they run as good as they look!

 

I could not get her to fire, is getting fuel, the one gasket on the bowls seems to leak wtf......i have to remove them and see why the one gasket is leaking.

 

Did you bench synch?

 

Yes, i did, did the tube method for the bowls also

 

The spark seems weak also, what can i check to ensure a good spark?

 

<SLAP>

Care to rephrase that?

 

Sure Schmuck wrong bowl he is working on a 550 not a 700x. Do the 550 and the 700x use the same carb?

 

Okay, let's see if I can post a reply without being quite so confrontational this time. (You'll have to excuse me for that one... I'm trying to get the fuel levels set on that bank of carbs, and it's not going well.)

To answer your question, no -- from what I read, the 550s use a BS28, while the X uses a BS33. To the best of my knowledge, however, they are similar enough that the differences between them are minor. I could very well be wrong on this, but I doubt it -- to answer Robert's question, the washer does in fact sit on a ridge or "counterbore shoulder" beneath the edge of the tube it sits in. If you look at the second picture the man posted (below the stack of rebuild kits), the washer should be plainly visible underneath the jet.

While we're talking about jets in tubes, whose brilliant idea was it to stuff the pilot jet way the hell down in that hole??

 

There is no jet in that hole you see in my second pic, that is the fuel inlet where the seat and screen go in and the small threaded hole next to it is for the screw that holds the seat in place, Now getting back on subject, as i asked before i was hijacked, I have a weak spark, what are the possible causes?

 

"Okay, let's see if I can post a reply without being quite so confrontational this time".
SCHMUCK I did not realize you where being confrontational I thought the <slap> was funny. I am sorry I did not mean to tick you off truly not my intention.

 

Weak spark causes:
#1. If you have a weak battery, they aren't going to give you a good spark. Check your input voltage before calling this one.
#2. Coil grounding, if the ring terminal located under the coil securing bolt gets corroded or is loose, you got problems. Clean and tighten that ring!
#3. Not so common but the TCI can cause lousy spark if the chip gets zapped.
#4. Tired coils- the stockers are prone to cracking and corrosion. Give the bodies, wires and plug caps a good cleaning and looking over. You can overhaul them but that is a lengthy proposition and we've not space enough to cover it here.
#5. REALLY rare but the ignition switch can get gunk on it and the switch wafer plate can crack.

 

pet set to prime? on centerstand, you said you checked float levels with carbs installed? someone mentioned sync. i used the paperclip method with great succes. your spark could be weak but if you look at the spark comin off the plug its gonna look weak, it always does, hit that hoe with a dap of starter fluid just to get it started once, after that it should be good. you said a brand new gasket is leaking?? i dont think so if your float level is correct fuel shouldnt even touch the bowl gasket sounds like floading to me. my carbs did this the other day and alot of fuel gets in the area but it was coming out of my carb intakes.

 

Check your battery voltage while cranking and let us know.

MN

 

If you went from Good Spark ... before the Carbs came off.
And, ... Weak Spark ... after the Cleaning ...
99.9 -out of- 100
Battery.

If the Battery was aged and not "Tended" during the break, ... it loses the "Bottom" and quits delivering steady amperage.

Just running the Bike of it will tax it. It cant get a deep charge anymore so the whack it takes turning the Starter don't leave much to do anything more.

Take the Battery to AutoZone and have them test its capacity after you put a Full Charge on it.

(( A trick for getting some Starting Juice in the Off season for Tuning and Hard Starting ... is: Visit a Auto Junk Yard and buy a Battery out of a Late Model Wreck. Bring it home and use it for Aux Power. Or, buy a "Jump Pack" that comes with Cables and recharges to have in the shop. ))

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-ju ... 38391.html

 

I can clearly see the fuel leaking out from the top of the bowl on the 2 middle carbs, i just recently removed them, i do not have them apart yet, My started died in the process so i have to wait for a replacement. So far i think when i was cleaning the bowls i may have removed some material and the surfaces are not completely flat and thats why it leaks i assume. other then the float sticking.

 

Clean the Surface on the Carb Body that the Gasket sets on.
Clean the Surface of the Fuel Bowl that set on the Gasket.

I seal the Carb Body to the Gasket.
I smear RTV on the Gasket and set the sealant side to the Carb Body.

I Oil the other side when I assemble the Parts.
The Oil flattens-out the Gasket.
The Oil prevents the Gasket from sticking to the Bowl.

Removal is easy.
The gasket stays put on the Carb.
Does not tear or stick.

Re-use the Gasket many times before needing new Gaskets.

 

Oh trust me, there so clean you can eat off them.

 

find a piece of glass and lay the carb bowls on them. Maybe you have ground off too much while cleaning and they are not flat.

 

That is exactly what i was thinking.