HELP!!! ENGINE CLANKING NOISE!!

Its understandable to get inpatient so you can ride but it can be a real costly mistake read through the manual on what your doing a few times first maybe even before you tear something apart. might just save you some bucks, there are no cheap parts on motorcycles.

 

Did you ever figure out where the screw came from?

 

The screw is from a small hose clamp. Can't find where it came from. Previous owner may have dropped it in the air box , possibly.

 

I finally figured out that the cams were binding because the timing was off. I followed the manual. It says to align the "t" with the pointer. There is no pointer on mine. There is a threaded hole where the pointer is in the picture so i aligned the t with the hole. That was wrong. So I figured out that the first cylinder is at the top of the stroke when the "t" aligns withe the top sensor thing. Anyway, the intake valve in the cylinder in question has an extra large gap. It seats and seals (liquid will not pass) and it opens, but the gap is causing a tapping noise when it runs. Will a shim solve this problem? If so, where can I get one? I saw sets online and was wondering if I can buy just one anywhere. And I'm wondering if the extra gap means the valve is bent. Any insight would be appreciated. As far as the gasket is concerned, just wanted to see if I could get it running properly . Eventually, I will order a new one.

 

I would suspect the valve could be bent slightly. You will have to decide to take the head to a machine shop or find a good used head off of a running bike. As long as it has to come back off anyway to put a good head gasket in. You should look for a timing pointer at the sane time so it will make things easier to line things back up when you get ready to put back togeather.

 

.Thanx. A friend at a shop said he could give me the shim I need to see if a proper gap will quiet the clicking. But either way, when I can find a good deal on a head, I'll get one. My budget is tight--just trying to get it back on the road right now. I do realize that valve could give me problems down the line so acquiring a head will be on my to do list.

 

You should double-check all the valve clearances since you had it that far apart; shims are cheap. Just get the valves all in spec and see where you're at.

And be sure your "valve" tick isn't a minor exhaust gasket leak at the head.

 

I am shimming the valve and I will check all the others for clearance too. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

looks like three of my valve clearances need adjusting. hope to get it done tonight.

 

Took it for a ride. The clicking is not as loud, but it's still there. Don't think it's an exhaust leak . It sounds mechanical , at the very top end , from the first cylinder. The gap is still more than what the specs call for. It's suppose to be .11 - .16 mm. Before I changed the shim it was .72 mm. The largest shim I can put (according to a chart I used) is 320. That brought the gap to .20 mm. So the gap still isn't exactly correct, but it's definately an improvement.

When I had the head off there was no score marks on the cylinder wall. After a four mile test ride I pulled the plug from the first cylinder and there appeared to be a very slight bit of oil on the plug. If there was no damage to the cylinder wall, how could the rings have gotten damaged? Can the condition of the plug be explained any other way?

 

Did you replace that piston?

 

I did not replace the piston. I smoothed out the gouges on the top surface of the piston, but did not replace it.

 

More than likely the top ring lands got smashed down by the screw and pinched the top rings. So if the rings are stuck thats where your oil on the plug is coming from.

 

Can this cause the clicking noise? does this mean I need to pull the head off again? What will I need to do if this is the problem?

 

The clicking noise is from a damaged valve / bucket problem. The head will need to be pulled and repaired by a machinist. There is no two ways about that. The cylinders need to be pulled and that piston replaced. So plan on a gasket set, 1 piston, 4 ring sets. while you have the cylinders off send them to the shop and get them honed and checked before you buy any parts incase you need to go to oversize pistons on all four.

Personally I would shop for a good used engine and swap it out. Probably would be cheaper. Get a shop & bunch of new parts involved its going to stress a tight budget.

 

looking for a used motor..

 

Look on Craigs list , you might have to pick up a non running bike and part it out to get an engine. Buy yourself a compression tester so you can check out any bikes you run across.
You may even want to place an ad yourself looking for a non running bike. There are lots of non runners stuffed into corners of pole barns and city garages. I am sure you'll find what you need. Good Luck and let us know how your search goes.