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HELP! issues on my 81 750 build

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by FiFdYnUtZ, Nov 29, 2010.

  1. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    hey guys, i have been working on my 81 xj750r chop project for a while now and just got to doing the rigid frame this weekend, rolled the bike on the trailer fine, got everything welded up and BAM the rear wheel is locked up as if the shaft is binding somehow or something in the transmission is botched...any ideas? this is devastating to me because now i have to cut the rear of my new frame off just to get at it...lmk what you think..

    the rest of the project will include:
    custom made 7metal west ribbed rear shorty fender
    while walls
    tc bros forward controls
    newer 883 sportster tank
    spoke front wheel
    new brakes
    chrome cap uni pod filters
    custom battery box with mock oil tank for electronics
    old school black paint job with white 2 tip scallops and professional pinstriping
    black header wrap
    seat springs on my west eagle spider web solo seat
    side mount speedo

    etc

    everything mocked up, tank will sit about 3in lower in the front when finished

    [​IMG]

    head light mocked up (billet harley headlight) with HD risers and custom made and fitted drag bars
    [​IMG]

    frame roughly molded and etch primed (stopped at this point before paint due to the shaft issue)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    if there is any more info you need please let me know because this issue is putting a complete hold on the build until i can figure it out, any help is greatly appreciated! and also if there are any 750r stock parts you guys are interested in let me know, i have A LOT, as well as some extra chrome drag bars thanks!
     
  2. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Couple things I'd check which should be pretty easy...

    1. make sure it's in neutral. We all miss the small stuff sometimes
    2. make sure the brakes are not stuck.
    3. unbolt the rear wheel and take it out. Inspect the pieces and spacers.
    4. peal back the ujoint boot with the wheel off and see if you can turn it there. (after step 1)

    I don't see enough of an angle in the shaft to bind it up.
     
  3. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    its definitely in nuetral when we tried, and even with the clutch in it does the same shit..i'll just have to start tearing into it or at least get the wheel off before i cut the from peices..
     
  4. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    and when you roll it it pulls and will act like its in gear, kind of a binding shutter in the rear wheel..
     
  5. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    I'd take the wheel off and inspect the brakes and make sure everything is back together correctly before cutting frame pieces.

    Also while putting it back together try rolling the wheel while torquing the axle in steps. Maybe you over torqued it?
     
  6. vanimal

    vanimal Member

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    first off, i know you dont want to hear it, but i think you should make the bike so you can inspect/service the shaft. Welding all that stuff in is a BAD idea. Do it before you paint it, IMO.
    secondly, pull back the rubber boot that covers the u-joint near the motor. Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the u-joint to the output shaft on the tranny. Then try spinning the wheel again. also try spinning the output shaft of the tranny. This will help you narrow it down to the tranny or other stuff.
     
  7. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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  8. vanimal

    vanimal Member

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    i guessed he welded in the swingarm down by the pivot. otherwise, yea, it should be able to come out.
     
  9. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    yeah it looks like im going to have to pull the wheel and check everything out, its definitely not over torqued, i never had the wheel off and it rolled fine right before we did the hardtail...and from what i understood from reading on here the way we did the frame is fairly common, and in the rare occurance i would need to service the shaft i would probably just cut it and re-weld it anyway..although those tube clamps would be a good idea, just having them exposed wouldnt look very good in my opinion..
     
  10. vanimal

    vanimal Member

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    so why exactly cant you get the swingarm off? looks like your "hardtail" bars bolt to the swingarm from the pics.

    exactly how far was it able to roll before it locked up?
     
  11. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    Check to see if the frame drew in or out of center after the weld cooled.
     
  12. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    frame measurements are all correct, and the ends of the hardtail were slid over the existing shock mounts and welded in, i cant bend them out so cutting is the only option to drop the swingarm..
     
  13. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    and it was locked up after the hardtail was done, no rolling at all, and was rolled in there perfectly fine beforehand..
     
  14. vanimal

    vanimal Member

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    you can still take it apart.
    remove the wheel, unbolt your hardtail, unbolt the universal joint from the output shaft, unbolt the 4 nuts that hold the gear box onto the swingarm, then unbolt the swingarm from the frame, and you'll be able to remove everything.



    if it only locked up after lowering/hardtailing it, my guess is you lowered it too much and the universal joint is hitting the driveshaft housing near where that rubber boot is, which is keeping it from rolling.

    Or it could be that the angle is too extreme for the universal joint all together. Another reason for not hardtailing frames like that, no offense.
     
  15. ST0CKM0NK3Y

    ST0CKM0NK3Y Member

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    Agreed, i think you should take a look at the front before you cut it all up.
     
  16. bobberaha

    bobberaha Member

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    I agree with the two above me. Ran into this when I hardtailed mine. I know when Craft hardtailed his he trimmed out an area so it would not rub that may be an option for you and save you alot of grinding and time would suck to have to tear all apart again.
     
  17. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    so you think the joint is rubbing inside the shaft? now that i think about it you are right that i can get it off without cutting...although i have seen many bikes lowered as far as mine but havent heard of this happening :/ thanks for the input thus far!
     
  18. vanimal

    vanimal Member

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    i'd bank on it being the issue. it's an easy check, just pull the rubber boot back so you can see. it takes less time than it did for me to type this.
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Go after it in Steps:

    Pull the Plugs and the Left-side Crank Cover, Neutral and Wrench the Mill over two full rotations.

    Add a factor:
    In Gear.
    Listen for Binding.

    The Brake Actuating Rod looks Tight.
    You're about an inch up the threaded rod on the adjuster.
     
  20. waldo

    waldo Member

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    The drive shaft angle really does not look that bad at least not enough to do what you describe. When you welded where did you put the ground I ask because if the current passed through the bearings and gears its possible they are now welded together. One more thing when welding you should unplug all the electronics so they dont get zapped. Good luck
     
  21. waldo

    waldo Member

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    Or it could be your brake shoes just fell apart or de-laminated as BigFitz tries to point out to everyone and that is a very real possibility as I have seen it a few times now.
     
  22. FiFdYnUtZ

    FiFdYnUtZ New Member

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    Ill be sure to pull the boot back and look asap. And if that's not the case ill be pulling the wheel and everything next...I was discussing the possibility of the gears tacking last night and I sure hope that isn't the case, the ground was on the frame rails...thanks again for the help so far!
     
  23. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That's my guess too; the rear wheel is just locked.
     
  24. bobberaha

    bobberaha Member

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    Takes very little change in shaft angle to make it bind up. For those of you who have shocks on your bike go out to you're garage and hop up and down on the seat and see how little travel there is.
     

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