Show me your Rattle Can Paint jobs.

I want the good, bad, ugly and just plain horrific events. Pics would be outstanding. I'm pretty decent with a rattle can and want some input and or suggestions.

 

Here's a couple to get you going.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... art=0.html

Engine and tank as well as the frame and side panels are rattle canned. Key is lots of coats paint. Let dry completely then wet sand smooth. Good prep like a nice clean flat surface sprayed with self etching primer helps a lot too.

 

About how many cans did you go through? Great job btw!!!!! What brand paint and did you prime as well?

 

The maroon parts would take 2 cans, the black about 1/2 can @ most, the paint is high gloss enamel, always use a primer from the same company.

 

Did you do the lettering on the black side covers by hand or did you stencil them?

 

Would you recommend the same techniques for the frame and swing arm?

 

I would only prime any rusted parts of the frame, otherwise wash the frame down with de-greaser, dry with a clean rag & go at it with good quality enamel, I have found that when you prime the whole frame, it chips too easy.

 

so you wouldn't prime the entire frame? Amazingly I'm rust free. What enamel would you recommend?

 

Brand names are different over here, just go for good quality, one of the other guys will give you a heads up.

 

here you can get up close and personal with my paint job

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yfArN-e2OU

 

VHT brand paints are quite good
But the color choices are limited

Duplicolor is also good as well as Plastikote

My bike is currently Plastikote #313 Burgundy (it's really purple though)

One trick is to cook it GENTLY with a heat gun

With the VHT and Duplicolor engine paint they are useless until they get hot once to cure the paint. Once cured they are very shiny and tough.

I assume you are rattle canning due to lack of equipment?

You can get spray bombs (rattle cans) made at most automotive paint suppliers. Anyone that custom mixes paint should be able to make some.

There are also the do it yourself spray bombs. They can be pumped up with a bike pump. They do have to be cleaned though.

There is a brand Propel? That adapts a bottle to spray. I've used them in my youth but didn't like them.
It may have been due to lack of experiance though.

 

Aiight you got me!!!! I'm serious about this and you send me music video. LMAO!!

 

I rattle canned this one with Duplicolor Ocean blue, then used rattle can Spraymax 2k clear with a hardner over it a couple years ago.

82 XJ650 Turbo

 

Great job rpgoerlich. I don't have much plastic on my bike though. I'm more interested in painted frames and swingarms. Sorry for not being more specific. If the frame turns out well, I'll definitely try my luck on the tank and tins.

 

Sorry, missed that post, the letters are vinyl, get them made at your signwriters, cheap as........

P.S. Don't worry about Schooter, he's on the Bob Hope........

 

Not an XJ but my XL 8) all rattle can (duplicolor) except for the striping which is catylized one shot so it could be clear coated with 2k spray can clear.

 

And a customers Suzuki Savage done with duplicolor as well.

 

This is Duplicolor Blue metalcast "anodized" with 2-part rattle can clear over. The anodized is a 2-step reflective base coat and semi-transparent color over the top.

http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... ction=view¤t=tankafter.jpg

http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... ction=view¤t=trunk1.jpg

3 years running and the tank still looks perfect after a couple gas spills.

As others have said, PREP IS KEY...and PATIENCE a close second.
If you rush, it will be easy to tell.

If you do it right, the rattle can job will not save you that much over a real gun (if you have access to a compressor)....and by-far the cheapest option is probably to take it to a body shop where they can shoot the parts while they are doing a car in the color you want (or can accept)

 

My vote's for Duplicolor and VHT products, too. Great stuff, especially the epoxy paints. Being a guitar guy, too, I've heard alot of bad stuff about the Plastikote stuff being too soft. Rustoleum? Eh.... I, however, avoid Krylon like the black plague!

 

Great pics and awesome paint. Looks like duplicolor is the one. Thanks for the help guys.

 

you can see my gallery for some bad and ugly, all HD rattlecan

 

Lou, did you put your battery in an ammo box?

 

last 1 i did

 

When using rattle can, how much does the temp. of your shop enter into the outcome???

skillet

 

great question skillet.

 

i am not to sure either as a rule i never paint unless its over 70 1 think i know that effects it is humidity its hard to get an even coat when its humid it also dries with dull spots in it when its humid when it starts to dry and notice it i use a hair dryer to warm it up a bit key is keep your distance with a hair dryer or you will ruin your paint and dont get to close or you will blister. Here in georgia we dont usually have real hi humidity i paint most of my stuff outside in the sun mid day even if your on cement the dew in the grass need to be evaporated before you start so early mornings is out of the question

 

Check out PJ1's line of "Hard Epoxy" frame paint; I like it. Holds up better than regular Duplicolor gloss black, although I've been known to use that as well.

 

do they recommend priming the frame? Another member suggested only treating rusted areas, to lessen than chance of the paint chipping. I working under the assumption that you ALWAYS PRIME the surface you're gonna paint.

 

That's a great paint job, cutlass, what colur is that, it looks close to my 900.

 

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here is mine, i didnt do it right though so it kept chipping off. It was more of a test to see how it looked. Im in the process of stripping the frame down to bare metal and then repainting it with epoxy / enamel paint.

 

looks a bit lighter then yours . metallic blue stright from walmart paint dept. I painted it over 2 years ago saw the bike on ebay wrote the guy he said the paint is still perfect even tho they put over 19k miles on it. 1 thing i do is clear everything with hi heat clear works well

 

Someone asked about temperature while rattle canning...temp is essential to be aware of with ANY paint job! Make sure your tins or frame is the SAME temp as your room (read set temp and leave in there at that temp over night!) this help to promote adhesion and paint flow! I will not paint anything below 68*. It just causes more headaches than not. Again, prep is always your biggest key and as said before, unless you just don't have a compressor (spray guns are cheap!) you won't spend a whole lot less than regular acrylic enamel spray. If you are shooting urethane (HOK, etc.,) than your price will go up significantly.
All of your spray products should be from the same manufacturer and like materials. this helps to eliminate subtle differences and problems like crazing, etc., but doesn't guarantee anything.
Don't mix enamel and urethane or you will have problems.
My rattle process is pretty well the same as my spray gun process.
1) Strip to bare metal whenever possible.
2) Use a GOOD cleaner/degreaser
3) Use minimal filler to prep the surface and make it flat.
4) Use a good self-etching primer
5) Block from 200, 350, 450, 600
6) Apply thin layer of different color primer and block with 600 to detect highs and lo's until even.
7) Use a good cleaner and lint free cloth to prep for base coat.
8) Once flashed, tape for accents and spray.
9) Spray intercoat clear and let sit fot at least an hour (Light coat but well flowing.
10) Once all layers and accents are finished start final clear. Nice "wet layer" and let it dry for about 8 hours.
11) Wet sand clear using 600, 800, 1000, 1500
12) Apply final coats of clear and let dry for at least 4 hours.
13) Final wetsand of 1000, 1500 and 2000
14) Polish and buff

APPLY NO WAX OR ANYTHING FOR AT LEAST A MONTH!!!!!!!!!! Give that clear a chance to cure and be where it needs to be before you put any waxes on it!

 

I did this with satin black krylon enamel and the tank with caramel latte krylon enamel. I use high temp engine spray paint for the engine and header/exhausts. I only primed the tank using krylon primer. it came out pretty good.

(sorry bout the dark photo)