I stink!

After a very short ride (35 degrees) today I noticed that I have a strong smell of exhaust on my clothes. Is this normal for these bikes? What can I do to prevent it? I can't see myself ridding this thing to work this summer and smelling like this all day.
It's an 82 650.

 

Damn! and here I was thinking it was me all this time :roll: !!! Are you sure it's exhaust and not maybe a little oil from a small leak in cam cover???

skillet
BTW definitely not trying to wish anything on you here :wink:

 

Is your engine running and idling clean on all 4??
The simple test is to spray the 4 headers with water at idle.
All 4 should fry the water equally. If you are idling on 3, then the gas fumes get blown around into your clothes.

 

The car that was in front of you needs work.

 

Is this a stock bike or do we have some intake mods in place?

Are you sure it's exhaust and not an oil smell?

I've got a couple ideas but I'm not going to type three paragraphs only to learn you've got pods and either no filter/a mini pod on your breather.

 

The bike is all stock. To me it smells like a rich exhaust/gas smell. It reminds me of the way my jacket smells after ridding snowmobiles. I guess it could be oil? It looks like at some point the cover on the top of the motor was cracked and then resealed where it mounts to the motor with some black RTV or something.

It makes the garage smell like this for days after a ride, so I think that eliminates the car in front of me!

 

Ok, thanks.

The cracked/resealed valve cover could be your source, or maybe not.

There should be a hose leading to the airbox from the top of your left hand transmission cover; that's the crankcase vent and it should feed into the airbox.

The airbox itself has an outlet hose/drain that I believe on your bike simply goes straight down about 4" or so.

Be sure all of these crankcase vent hoses are there, and not cracked, or plugged.

Take the lid off the airbox and check the condition of the air filter. Ensure it's not oil/gas soaked which could indicate a more serious problem. Be sure the airbox drain/outlet isn't plugged. In the 550s, there's a little "breather filter" thingie in the airbox that the outlet/drain attaches to, I don't know if your bike has one or not. If it does, it can become plugged.

Check your oil level. Open the filler cap, stick your nose in the hole and have a whiff. Does it smell like happy warm oil, or gasoline?

Inspect your fuel lines, vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock, and the carbs. Make sure they're not loose or cracked. Make sure the petcock itself isn't dripping out its vent hole. Put the petcock on PRI with the bike off and make sure it doesn't then pee gas all over the place; you might be dumping gas out the carb overflows only when it's running and not know it. Carefully inspect the lower edges of the fuel tank itself, be sure you haven't developed a leak.

Check the gas cap. Are you being "misted" by gasoline from a leaky cap gasket and don't realize it?

You shouldn't "stink" after a ride, and the bike shouldn't stink up the garage. Something is wrong; find and fix it, it could be dangerous.

 

i'm leaning towards a gas smell. gas can vaporize into the atmosphere forever. so vapors can fill up a garage and linger. if the bike isn't running. it can't possibly leave an exhaust smell. cept for the short running time it takes to park the bike. a little ventilation will take that away though. but if you ventilate the garage and the smell comes back. that's gas.

i recently took my suzi out for a ride. one of the exhaust flanges is broke now. directly underneath on the left side. so the left exhaust is now a 2 peace broken pipe. but it didn't leave me covered with an exhaust smell.

 

Went out and pulled the air filter. The smell is coming from the air box for sure! Thats all I had time for right now. The filter was dirty, but not oil soaked... just dusty. I'll dig deeper tomorrow.

It's a gas smell for sure. It's really strong inside the airbox.

 

I was thinking it was a vent hose off also. This is going to sound kind of odd have you checked compression on it. If the compression is low you will get a lot of extra gas oil smell out of the vents even tho its not spitting oil. Have you ever followed an old car with a lot of miles when they accelerate they have a worn out smell. On a car this happens when your vacuum drops the pvc valve closes and the exhaust gas smell comes out of the vents hopefully its not that smell. Sorry but thats the only way that i know to describe that smell

 

You need to be looking for gas in the oil; you may have a much bigger (and very common) problem.

 

I don't smell anything.

But, if I started smelling like my own exhaust, ... I'd stick a couple of Ait Fresheners in the Airbox.

 

I'm soaking the air filter in Fabreze right now!

 

My fuel petcock was leaking around the diaphram this past summer. You couldn't see anything unless you revved up the engine and looked from the back side. The bike and I both had a strong gas odor coming from us.

 

dont soak it to long you don't know if it will brake down the element .

every foam air filter i ever pulled out of a bike smells like gas. The air box is higher then the carbs fumes have to vent. plus the intake pulses pushing and sucking .

Does it smell like gas after you shut it off ?

 

HA HA I was kidding! I'm not really soaking the air filter in febreze!

Yeah it smells after it's shut off. I walked out in to the garage just now and it almost knocked me over, the smell is so strong.

There are no signs of gas leaking outside the bike anywhere. The first time I used the petcock I realized that the PO must have painted the tank himself and didn't mask off or remover the petcock. It plugged the fuel filter with red paint, so I pulled the tank and drained it and replaced the fuel filter. The vacuum line and fuel lines seemed to be in good working order.

I'll look for gas in the oil and missing of broken vent tubes today.

Another thing you might need to know about the bike, if you're trying to help me figure this out... I live at 9700+ feet in elevation. Could that effect the air fuel ratio? Maybe it's over fueling due to how thin the air is up here?
I bought it from around 6000 feet in elevation, but I don't know if it had this problem before I got it up here.

 

if you cant find anything pull a plug see what it looks like if its black and sooty you have a carb leaking problem. Also your tank might be leaking some where you cant see even if its not dripping look for wrinkled paint. I had to repair 1 a few months back that was leaking around the crimp where it goes over the frame in the front couldnt see it until you pulled the tank and flipped it good luck

 

Alright, I went out and started taking stuff apart (I'm no bike mechanic) I think I found where the smell is coming from.


The inside right side carb has gas all over the outside of it. It's been dripping down on to the motor. That's the carb that the vacuum line to the tank is hooked to.



Guess I might have to teach myself how to rebuild these things.... sounds hard...

any advice is welcome!!!

 

Not hard to do. It just takes time. Looks like a leaky float bowl gasket. Might as well clean them since you have them off. Don't seperate the rack unless you have too. It helps to take pics as you disassemble them so you have a reference for putting them back together. Plenty of info on here how to do it all.

 

Get yourself some kits pull the tops off the carbs carefully so you do not rip the diaphram (note they only go in 1 way ) Pull the float by tapping on the small end of the pin carefully you can brake the ear off very easy (note the way the float sits You don't want to get it back in upside down) pull the main jet out the emulshin tube under the main jet goes up. This can be done by screwing a float bowl screw partially in to it and lightly tapping with a screwdriver. On top of the carb there is a plug (if they have never been a part )use a small drill bit drill easy there is an adjustment screw under it remove the screw there will be a spring washer and a small oring on the bottom.(sometimes you need a small sheet metal screw to get the washer and oring out or a pick) Do the clunk test with the piston in the carb body. Pull the choke plunger out of the top. Clean the heck out of it. (note if your going to dip it do not get it as high as the throttle shaft seals. Blow the heck out of it make sure all passages are clean and re assemble. Keep the parts for each carb seperate. Then you can bench sync them ( articles in here on how to do it) and you need to set your float levels (again articles on here) Make sure your intake boots are not cracked put them on then get them synced Your best off if you don't know how to do it. Have someone help or find a write up with pics. It sounds hard but its not

 

http://cycles.evanfell.com/2008/09/how- ... right-way/

Just read articles like this one - - there's 3 really good ones on this site too.

 

should not be a problem now. That's a good article just take your time that's all. If your not sure about something take a pic and post it. It will be addressed for you better safe then sorry

 

I had a similar fuel smell when I parked the bike in the garage. When I cleaned the carbs, I noticed a stain on the alternator cover which turned out to be a leaky fuel rail. Fortunately for me, it turned out to be between the 1st & 2nd carbs so I only needed to break the outer carb from the rack to replace the o-rings in the T fuel rail inlet. I went to Lowes and found a suitable Nitrile butadiene o-ring set for $.58. If you didn't smell fuel in your oil filler hole then it might be the fuel rail as I discovered.

 

as you can see in the pics. he has a float bowl leak. he just needs a new gasket for that bowl. problem solved

 

I figure I have them all off the bike I'm going to clean them up. I was really surprised at how clean the carbs are! No sludge or varnish to speak of. The brass is pretty tarnished though. So why not break them down, right? It's snowing anyway! So far all I did was pull the bowls off so I could see what I might be getting myself into before I made the 45 minute drive to civilization. See if I needed anything I didn't already have in the garage.
I think I'll go with the break down and boil method from Evan Fell's site.

 

PS I'm slow too!

 

i think a can of carb cleaner spray oughtta suffice. maybe 2 cans.
take out one peace at a time. and hose em off with the spray.

looks like your missing a peace of gasket on that leaky carb. 2nd to the left. or is it the light?

 

Since they are off, read one of the loooong articles on this site about thoroughly cleaning them.

Do the "clunk test" polish, verify the jet in the float bowl is clear, run a wire thru the little brass tube, ETC. (too much to post)

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14692.html

Get a small glass jar, soak small parts in carb cleaner in the jar, keeps you from wasting the stuff, killing Spotted Owls, and blowing holes in the Ozone layer. :lol:

 

DO NOT submerge a carb that still has the throttle shaft in it unless you want to be replacing throttle shaft seals.

 

Does lemon juice bother rubber seals? I have never used it. Usually when i do them i will soak it just up to the butterflies Not much above that that you can't clean with carb cleaner spray. What works pretty well is simple green or purple cleaner in a sonic cleaner you can watch the corrosion zapping away and the crud float to the top

 

I'm the first to admit that I have no idea what I'm doing here.... but by looking at these carbs, I can guess that the throttle shaft seals may be going bad already.




All the gunk around the ends of the shaft must be from the gas leaking out from there right?


On to the Clunk Test.
I'm not sure I did the "clunk test" 100% correct, but here are videos from half way through and after I finished cleaning.

Half Way Point


Finished

 

clunk test pick up the carb slide with your finger move your finger slide should fall back down to the bottom you will hear it clunk when it hits.

There is no gas on the shaft seals if they are bad vacuum sucks in. There is a possibility that fuel vapors worked there way out of the seals after years. My guess someone sprayed them a long time ago it looks like dirt and oil to me . Was the bike idling correctly if so i wouldn't mess with them. Its a pita you have to pull the plates on the inside you will brake the screws they are brass then you need new screws after you get the old ones out .When replacing you have to lock the screws down so they wont back out and fall in the motor and mess it up. Thats why i suggested check them before you pulled the carbs just hose them off with carb clean unless you want to replace them.

 

the last 2 pictures above are videos of my clunk test.

 

you have to have the carbs put together for the clu nk test. without the caps and springs you've got no pressure pushing down on the clunkers and they prolly won't come down.

 

Be a good idea to check your float levels while the carbs are out... Float valve not closing properly could also be the cause of your leak.

 

Not the way I read the instructions....

From: Your Carbs NEED to go CLUNK!!!

Thats the part I'm working on right now.... This part really kinda sucks!!

 

jmemmer your are correct gravity does it. Has nothing to do with having your carbs put together

 

never saw the article. my bad

 

you can take the clips off of the two outside throttle shafts and see those seals then decide if they need replaced

 

Float levels should be dialed in. I'll have to double check them tomorrow... I think I'm HIGH from all the gas fumes in the garage!

 

The gook from the throttle shaft seals is the wrong "color." I'm betting someone a while back submerged the carbs in something and that's what's seeping out.

The overall "blackness" of the seepage makes me think "dissolved seal."

Take Polock's advice, pop the two outside clips/washers and have a peek at the seals; I suspect you're not going to find anything happy.

 

Thanks.... :evil:

I guess that will be on the list for this weekend. They are just O rings or something that has to come from a Yamaha parts bin?

 

They're VERY "proprietary" get them from chacal (XJ4Ever.) You may find them cheaper, but they probably won't be the real thing. And considering the surgery required, GET REAL ONES.

They have an "X" (or "modified H") cross section, and Yamaha will tear you a new one on price (if they even offer them anymore.)

 

polock is right pull the clip and check. We really couldn't get a answer if the bike idled funny or had throttle hanging issues. After spraying out a carb with carb cleaner and flushing with water i always give the shafts a squirt wd 40

 

I couldn't wait... so I pulled the e-clips and washers off the ends of the throttle shaft. I sprayed the seals with PB Blaster and was able to carefully pull one out. It was still in good shape, soft and pliable anyway. Is that how they should be?

Looking up stuff this thing is going to need for the carbs and intake alone total more than I gave for the bike!! $60 for a rubber intake boot that doesn't come with the bolts, vacuum caps or gasket x4 ??? and $4 for a glorified o-ring x8 ! Ugh!

Anyone have a new V-Star 1100 they want to trade for mostly good condition, mostly assembled 1982 XJ650 with 2 wind screens, and leather saddle bags? Carbs recently cleaned and a new rear tire?

 

I had a feeling they would be ok because you were not having any problems.
Is your boot cracked if so repair it for now or maybe someone has one they will give you.
The orings are a definate b*tch price wise i paid almost 7 ea for the ones for my virago Does chacal have them cheaper?

if you have a few days a whole set on ebay new yamaha right now bid is 20 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-81-82 ... 2eb2b38170

 

They are $4 from Chacal plus a donation to the UPS guy I'm sure.

All 4 front boots are cracked. I sealed them up with RTV just to make sure I could get the bike running. Thanks for the ebay link!

EDIT: I think those are the back boots between the carbs and air box.

 

damn, they've gotten expensive.

 

Your right i just glanced over them

 

Welcome to the hard truth about old motorcycles. Parts are expensive, even with the excellent prices we get from Len. These bikes have four delicate precision carbs, a primitive and somewhat overly complex hydraulic system for the front brake, and an electrical system that was designed to be right at full capacity when all was new.

In order for them to operate reliably and perform like a new bike, the things that get old, dry out, crack, crumble, corrode or disintegrate will simply need to be replaced. And those things aren't cheap, anymore than they were when the bike was new.

So it really doesn't matter whether you paid $1000 or $100 for the bike itself, the costs of refurbishment are still going to be there, if you want to do it right. And unfortunately, doing it right is often the only way to get it DONE, otherwise you just keep fighting with it.

You might want to read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14581.html