WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Review

My journey to the (LED) light side is nearly complete. 8)

I'm no author and I ramble a lot. My intent is to give an honest and real life picture based review of Trucklite's 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight. At the same time I'm in no way associated with Trucklite or any of their vendors. That being said let the rambling begin... :wink:

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After reading about the LED headlights a while back, I started TRYING to find reviews and decent prices. Most reviews try to compare HID lights to the LED headlights. This did not really help me.

I upgraded from the Maxim's dim rectangle light to sealed 7" bulb when I installed my Windjammer Fairing. Then I almost immediately ordered a Euro style reflector/lens and H4 bulb kit with a 55/60W Bright White bulb. After finding a deal for the LED light, I pondered buying it for a few weeks. I acquired some "fun" money this winter and decided to bite the bullet and buy the bulb. The bulb just arrived today 01/24/2011.

Just to be clear, my Euro H4 bulb kit worked as expected. It had a narrower and whiter pattern than the sealed 7" bulb that came with my used fairing. My OCD-like tendencies, on-going LED conversion and the money burning a hole in my pocket led me to buying the Trucklite headlight. On a side note, I've ordered LED bulbs for my fairing's turn signals and only need to replace my rear turn signals (or bulbs) to be 100% LED lighted. (Thus my opening joke above).

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Because my fairing is removed for painting my initial testing today was limited to making sure the new light worked and take some color & daylight brightness comparison pictures. Weather depending, I may install a spare (and rougher) fairing and properly test the LED light before painting is complete. I don't know when that will be so bookmark this thread if you want to follow the review.

Initial Thoughts: Nice white color. The color and unique beam pattern should be noticeable to drivers during the day. As expected, light were at full brightness even when bike was barely idling around 1000 rpm.

Click on the thumbnail pictures below to read the comments for each picture.

NOTES: All pictures taken with choke open and 3000 rpm. I did my best to take comparative pictures at nearly the same angle/location. But I did not use a tripod (I used my cell phone today).














EDIT: Pictures taken around noon with a cell phone. No photo's were touched up. Only text was added. My real digital camera will take better pictures another day.

 

nice one, cant wait to see it on the bike! whats the draw?

 

Don't forget the night pics from driver perspective when you can.

 

what'd it cost you?

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

The only problem is that the light is so bright nobody will be able to see the paint on your bike! :lol:

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

5:30 PM Dusk and starting to snow and get colder again. Blurriness is because I'm using a cell photo that take forever to "snap" the photo.

NOTE: ALL PHOTOS TAKEN WITHOUT THE ENGINE EVEN RUNNING.

Light Source
• 10 Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs)
• Designed at 12.8v
• 4.5a (High Beam)
• 2.5a (Low Beam)
Product Page

FYI:
Halogen 55W / 12.8V = 4.3a
LED 2.5a x 12.8 v = 32W -- LED -> 1.8 extra amps
1.8a/19a *100 = 9.5% savings of "rated" amp for our XJs

First Dusk Impression: Nice and bright and good color. Can't tell anything about total throw distance or beam pattern YET.



P.M. If you want the eBay seller's name. The "Best Offer Price" he'll actually accept is $20 off. The seller is about 2/3 of the average "retail" price and way under MSRP which is ridiculous. A quick google search should tell you the retail price. Another ebay search should find you the cheaper seller

EDIT: Adjusted math to match manufacturer's 12.8V rating.

 

High beam amps are pretty close using a 60W halogen aren't they. 4.5 for led and 4.7 for halogen (if I did the math right)

 

Correct.

I personally don't use highs that often. I'm not THAT far in the country (and usually traffic on the roads).

MY reasons for LED include: Amp savings, color, cool factor, longevity, cool running lights, shouldn't need to worry about light dimming ALOT when braking and at stop signs and my 100% LED goal.

 

The led on high may also be a ton brighter than a 60w halogen. If the low is at least comparably bright (from rider perspective) as the 55w halogen, which it appears to be, I would expect it to be brighter than a 60w when it is drawing nearly twice the amps it was on low. Keep up the good work I may be trying some of your led mods if i can find a seca to play with.

 

nice headlamp can you flag down planes with it. Nice and bright for sure i am sure your happy. If you could aim it a bit lower you could melt the snow and drive thru it lol Great job

 

looks cold there

 

Minor Update:

After talking with TruckLite reps, apparently there may be something wrong with my light assembly. Depending on the model revision, I should have 5 or 6 light lit in LOW beam NOT the 7 I took pictures of. I'm awaiting an RGA #, address and UPS # for return/exchange.

I have been emailing Trucklite lately asking questions before and after my purchase. They have been very friendly and helpful so far. Most response are within 48 hours.

FYI: They do NOT recommend the use of a modulator, because the lights were not specifically designed for them.

 

I am running into that with my aquarium led strips also. They say leds do not burn out i have a set that partially did when you contact the vendor usually they look at you like your crazy. I am glad they are working with you

 

Well I have been bugging them a lot lately
Thankfully I have TOO many lit, not any burnt out yet.

Its hard to tell if leds burn out or the soldering and other components fail. Regardless WE can't just replace the bulbs. /shrug

 

Couldn't tell by the pics exactly, how does the width of the beam compare to the halogen, not only to see but to be seen as well?

 

Most of what I'm asking is how well can somebody see you? Have you ever looked at a led light from an angle? Usually not bright unless your looking straight on.

 

EDIT: In regards to your questions, this is EXACTLY why I'm posting this thread and why it is currently labeled WIP.

As I mentioned my bike is disassembled (well the fairing and luggage panels) and I wasn't planning on test riding unless it get nice out. (I'd toss on a spare fairing).

So at the moment I have no real idea about throw distance, visibility, brightness, etc other than the test pictures I provided.

This light assembly does have lens to aim/disperse the light and they are DOT approved. I will eventually do my best to document/photo/video the light pattern and oncoming view of the light.

I'm hoping the beam will compare to my Euro style H4 assembly I'm replacing which is narrower but more focused than DOT style.

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P.S. I got my RMA # and shipped out my light to day. Hopefully I'll have a new one in about a week.

 

Hey O-n-B,
I just realized I forgot to post a few dusk pictures that may help give you some brightness ideas.



Keep in mind I used a cell phone, and digital photography of lit LEDs is not very easy to do.

 

Anxious to see what you find out, just throw on a jacket and go for it you wuss....LOL I wouldn't go out in that either.

 

It was about 30F in the after noon and 25F or less and windy at dusk when I took those pictures.

I'll take more pics ASAP when I get my replacement light from Truck-Lite.

Weather permitting, I"ll back up the bike and try to get some beam pics.

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Although I'm always skeptical of manufacturer's PR photos, I'll share this one anyways.


This was mounted on a HD I believe.

 

The beam looks wider than the original in those pics.

 

I am wanting to switch my headlight for an LED one so hopefully this is a good swap and I will follow with the same headlight

 

If you're still waiting to get a replacement, then I don't think I want one!

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

I looked into getting one of those LED headlights, but the price is outragous. I can't justify changing my light for that price. I guess with LED tail lights and signals, I can just run with the Halogen for now and not have any electrical problems.
I'll just wait until someone can come out with an LED headlight that matches my headlight for a more reasonable price. It's just a matter of time.

 

NO NO NO... I got the replacement promptly. I just haven't had time/weather/fairing available to do anything for this review. (Fairing is out for painting).

Yes they are expensive. But I got mine for $200 instead of $300+. At the time I had $500 "fun money" so I said what the heck!

As long as I keep the headlight and can get my new led signals to work I think I'm gonna give my girl "Val" the full title of

Val the LED Lady

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

i'am working on a aux light, something like these
not so much to see with but to be seen

 

I'd be more curious as to which LEDs they're using inside the headlight... I've got another application those could be used for.

 

Minor Update:

First day time ride today (with wife) after I installed my backup fairing.

Here are 2 night shots outside my house with the LED Headlight installed into the fairing.

The closeness doesn't give a good sense of the high-beam, but I took the picture anyways.

 

Update coming soon - weather permitting and me remembering to bring my camera to work (2nd shift job with a ride down unlit country roads to get home).

 

I keep forgetting my camera when I go to work.

I've been doing 2nd shift for 6 weeks with my xj750 as my main vehicle. I love the led headlight's color, brightness and spread. It is still aimed to high but no one has flashed lights at me yet.

Hope to have painted fairing install within 2 weeks so I can aim it properly.

One DARK side road has lots of reflective signs I can see about a 1/4 mile away. I want to take pictures there. Maybe halogen vs led on 2 different nights.

 

Are you happy with it even considering the price? Would you buy it again, or would you sell it if someone offered exactly what you paid for it?

 

Since I think they are no longer for sale by the seller... I paid $200 (instead of 300ish) when I had about $500 fun money available (from a small inheritance pot).

Am I happy with performance vs. price I paid?
Yes but because of my purchase price.
I would have been happy with my H4 Halogen kit if I didn't buy the LED headlight, but would not have the amp/watt savings on my bike.

Buy it again?
Would I pay 200 vs. 300 again yes.
Would I pay 200 or 300 outright without "fun money" pot, probably not.
Would I buy them if I had a full time office job again making OK money like I was... Yes, but I would have saved up for a month or so.

Would I sell it?
If desperate for cash I guess so, but reluctantly (because I'd probably not be able to buy one again for a long time).
I might also sell it if I wanted the bike 100% stock again and removed my fairing and luggage.
I guess I'd also sell it if I bought a "modern" bike that doesn't use 7" lights and was selling my XJ and never planned on owning/riding a classic bike again. (Definitely sell it separately if I sold the bike!!!)

Do I think it is really worth $300?
NO. But considering they are mostly targeted at Hummers, Jeeps, Harleys and Classic Car restorations - those owners may not mind spending the money as much. :lol: (Keep in mind they are the 1st and only DOT LED 7" Headlights on the market at the moment).


Money aside - I am happy with the headlight and hope it lasts at least 5 years to get most of my money's worth


At the same time I have my eye on a $330 pair of HIGH Power HIGH output LED driving/fog lights. I'd rather pay around $200 but that's not likely to happen.

 

You don't really save much power with the LED headlight, do you? Both the LED and 60 watt halogen are pulling about the same power - 57-60 watts.

HID's are supposed to use about 30% less power.... I've got one for my XS650, but haven't installed it yet.

 

From Wikipedia: Present designs...give performance between halogen and HID headlamps, with system power consumption slightly lower than other headlamps, longer lifespans and more flexible design possibilities.

The Headlamps draw just 32 watts on low, switch on instantly, have a High and Low beam....and are legal, which HID conversions aren't, and supposedly are just as bright as HID with a better color light.

I love my LED flashlight, it can be the brightest flashlight you can get but draw the same power, or it can be a low power flashlight that lasts seemingly forever.

LED's draw less power per lumen, but from what I can gather they have a ways to go before they are good for motorcycle headlight. I'll stick with my Hella halogen kit, for $10 on that online auction site...

 

Just curious, why did you choose leds over hids? hids are much cheaper, and also a much whiter light than the blue that is in the pictures. but if you're going for the blue look thats cool though.

 

In real life they are really not blue-ish - Maybe just the tiniest hint of blue. Those night shots are not very good color wise.

If you look at my Signature I have a 100% LED lighted bike now (Headlight, fog lights, dash panel [gauges, turn indicator, high and neutral lights], Front Turn signals, Rear DOT turn signal, extra side turn signals, Rear Brake/running light + Extra brake/running lights on my trunk, license plate light).

Although my LED headlight is not cheap, I didn't pay full price and proper HID kits are not cheap either.

FYI: I did replace my alternator brushes late last year (very worn down). So with that fixed my battery/amps should be in even better shape. To bad I let it die and freeze over the winter... New battery in UPS depot since I was not home today. GRRRRR

NOTE: By adding all those LEDs, I don't worry about running my AMP'ed Head Unit (radio), cell phone chargers and any future heated gear w/o running out of battery power. (To tired to remember the correct terms).

 

Hey metal bob ,
Will that light fit in a headlight assembly of xj650 (no fairing)? Sorry if stupid question just wanting to know my options before I buy something. I'm wanting to put a round headlight on my xj750 instead of the factory square one. Thanks for any help!

 

It SHOULD fit in any 7" round headlight housing with some sort of front holding ring.

EDIT: They now have a newer version that looks more like a normal headlight. I think they call it a Phase 6 or 7. Seems more popular with the HD riders since it looks normal and smoked color when off.

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

Bob,

My question is did you change the turn signals and brake light to LEDs? If so what did you have to do to get them working?? I'm having problems getting them to work on my XJ650. :roll:

Thanks

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

You have to install electronic flasher relys that will work properly with the led bulbs.

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

I just ordered one but I don't think that's all you have to change on an Xbike with a single flasher indicator.

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

ALL of my lights are LED. (Though I had to temporarily switch back to normal brake light bulbs when I found my LED brake lights were mostly burnt out/failed. (Cheap bulbs don't always last). The new bulbs are in the mail.

I had no problems using LED for my tail lights. (Though my "atari" computer unit doesn't like it and constantly warns me but I don't mind.) That being said, the 1982 XJ750J Maxim's tail light is perfectly designed for rear-only lighted LED bulbs.

To get my turn signals working (rear's are DOT approved and fronts have alot of bulbs inside a large reflector cavity on my Vetter Windjammer fairing), I had to use an electronic flasher. I lost auto cancel feature but didn't mind living in farm land.

Here is the flasher I use from eBay - The extra wire goes to ground.


I have no knowledge of other bikes with a SINGLE turn signal indicator on the "dash". You will still need an electronic flasher on any XJ, but I think you need to do a bit of extra wiring when making changes with singal indicator dashes, but don't quote me on that.

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I haven't ridden much in a while because my bike is partially disassembled and I'm working 6 days a week without time/energy to get back to rebuilding the carbs & exhaust yet

I have order replacement 6" oval (semi truck) tail lights for my trunk. One light has some of the "running" lights burnt out/failed. I figured I'd replace both at the same time.

Also the extra amber turn signal bars I added to my hard saddle bags are 1/2 burnt out (both of them) and Amazon stopped selling that part number. I bought some replacements but they are not a perfect fit and I'll have to plug up at least one mounting hole from the other light bar. :evil:

 

I contacted tech support at SuperBrightLEDs yesterday. They told me I have two seperate problems.

1, The LEDs do not blink.
They said they have a blinker that may work, so I ordered one.
They also said, if it doesn't work I could return it and get the resistors to connect at each signal to fix that problem.

#2, The LEDs on all four corners come on with the igntion switch on. (Should be just the front ones.) And when I switch to left or right the front ones get brighter but none of the four blink.
They said this is due to the single indicator light on the dash, and that I need a "LED Turn Signal Diode Kit" to fix that problem, which they don't sell.

I found one made by Kuryakyn on Amazon and ebay and ordered one. $10.95 including shipping.

Does anyone know if this sounds correct???

 

Another review

http://www.triumphrat.net/club-cafe/347 ... amp-2.html

 

Everything that you were told is correct. With a no-load relay and the diodes you shouldn't need the load resistors. With a single dash light for both signals the light is conneted to both circuits at the same time. When using incandescent bulbs the small amount of current that leaks through the dash light isn't enough to make the blubs on the inactive circuit glow, but when using LEDs it is more than enough, so all four lights come on at once. By connecting diodes to the dash light you will prevent any current from flowing to the inactive turn signal circuit.

Mechanical signal relays won't work with LEDs because there isn't enough current draw to heat up the bi-metal strip. Load resitors are a simple work-around, but aren't a good solution in my opinion (you have the same electrical load as when using incandesent bulbs, so why bother with the LED conversion). A no-load relay eliminates that problem.

For those that have the ATARI; you can modify the internals to reatain the warning light function. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14068.html
Unfortunately the photos are no longer being hosted, but the descriptions are good enough that it should be clear what to do once you have your instrument cluster open.

 

looks like I might consider this for my current project.

 

Re: WIP: Trucklite 27250C 7" LED DOT Headlight Real-Life Rev

I'm interested in these, too. For like $26 a pop for the knock off versions, it might be nice for visibility if nothing else. The spot seems to be the way to go as far as actually increasing visibility at all. All the data suggests the wider you mount auxiliary lights, the easier it is for people to determine your approach speed. I don't think 2 watts will tax the alternator much.

I switched all of my blinkers and tail lights to led, and the trick seems to be using chrome tape to line the bulb housings. The reflection throws the light in all directions, not just head on. That and wide angle/multiple LED replacements.