nOOb starter clutch question.

So I'm a nOOb here, I've been a Yami guy for years, and got my first XJ series bike (82 XJ750R) The bike was a "barn find" 13k on the clock, hasn't run in 6 years, etc.

So, carbs are cleaned, new battery installed, starter acted like it stayed engaged when the bike started so I changed the solenoid, and it still does it, it burned the main 30a fuse and killed the bike after a few seconds of this happening. My question: does this sound like the starter clutch is not disengaging after the motor starts? I've got a fleet of Yamahas in the garage, but none have had this problem yet. Should I pull the starter/clutch and clean/inspect them?

All help is greatly appreciated.

 

Was it the starter clutch or the starter motor?

Have you flushed the motor with fresh oil? Could just require some lubrication.

The starter clutch is buried in the middle of the engine and requires a full motor strip down to access it... So you really want to be sure.

Welcome

 

If the starter keeps running it's probably the relay (solonoid) sticking, or it could be just the button, disconect the wire from the starter & run a + from the (a) battery.
Here's a diagram of the starter clutch, you'll see it's not like a car with a bendix that can get stuck in the engaged possition.

 

I replaced the starter relay, but it still acts like the starter is engaged while the bike is running, then when it shuts off, I can hear it disengage from the motor, so I think I'll start by doing an engine oil flush, I use ATF to do this on our street sweepers and plow trucks, but not so sure how to go about it on a bike, would using the ATF be a bad idea due to it's high detergent content?

 

The starter is engaged with the gear all the time, it just free wheels, see diagram. Try running the separate cable, as I said.

 

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You may have a mechanical clutch problem, but in case it's electrical, see what Gamuru posted.

Recently I had a sticky starter button on the 900.

And Welcome !!

 

Time, the starter has to be driven electricaly.

 

Allright, I'm going to go out and check to see if the starter is still getting power through the solenoid after it is running. Will return soon!
(my garage door is 3' from the computer

 

Okay- I did Gamaru's test, this is the deal, I jumped the relay, got power through the relay, bike started (connector disconnected from wiring harness) the test light went off (of course) when I stopped jumping the relay, yet the starter still sounds like it's driving the motor, and continues to do so until the motor is shut down and "kicks back" at the end of it's last rotation. The previous owner told me when I bought it that he just quit riding the bike, and it sat pretty much untouched until I bought it, but was in good running order when it was parked, so I'm thinking that the starter drive is gummed up from sitting too long and just doesn't want to completely release from the motor, I am going to start in the morning with a good system flush and some light weight oil to attempt to free up the starter drive. I will update when I get more accomplished. If this thing gets me too fired up I'm going to push it into the back row of the shop and get back to work on finishing my little bobber.

 

If the rollers are 'gummed' in the engaged possition, the engine will be turning the s/motor, that's a different scenario.

 

have you had the s/motor off for a bench test ? it take 5 mins' flat.

 

Dartmanx5 - - you are a good candidate for a "RickCoMatic" suggestion where you remove the starter and "douche out" the clutch mechanism with some kind of solvent that would hopefully de-crud the starter clutch.

It's a crap shoot.

 

This is EXACTLY what's happening.

 

There's a chance you can get the Starter Clutch to release.
50-50.
Nothing ventured; nothing gained.

Pull the Starter, Plugs, Oil Drain Plug and get ready to do battle.

Using a Pump-type Oil Can, a Coat Hanger and a length of Windshield Washer Hose, ... Make a Rig that you can use to REACH-IN and SPRAY the Back Side of the Starter Clutch.

(You have to make a Jig out of the Coat Hanger Wire. Hook the end back-around. Attach the Hose to the Wire, ... so you can snake the wire in and get a shot at the back of the Clutch.)

Then, ... Hook-up the Hose to the Oil Can.
Fill the Oil Can with a Strong Solvent.
(SeaFoam, Naptha, Lacquer Thinner. Strong stuff.)

Get the Hose snaked-in and douche.
Rotate the Engine with a wrench.
Clean, clean, clean.

Apply "Initial turning torque" to the Crank and smack the wrench with a Rubber Mallet.
Clockwise & counterclockwise.
Re-spray.

50-50 Shot.
Sometimes you win.