Another compression check question

I bought finally compression gauge and tested my bike. Result was kind of depressing

First couple times pressures from first to fourth cylinder were around 150, 140, 60 and 80psi, then I squirted some oil in and pressures were about 155, 150, 130 and 155psi...

Test was made to cold engine and it has not been started since july, so my question are my 3rd and 4th piston rings broken or is there possibility that they were just stuck since bike has been sitting so long? Is there a way to how could I get confirmation without taking motor apart?

 

if the bike runs. you get better readings with a warm engine.

you also want wide open throttle.

try that and see what happens. then be prepared for a whole slew of possibilities. cuz this forum is full of smarts to help you out.

 

Check the valves and adjust.
Has it been standing stil for a long time? If so maseure it again after 1000 km.
Btw, How many km on the clock?

 

Agreed - valve check/adj is the next step, and,

I don't think you can do a "dry" test now until the bike actually runs a bit.
(always test with battery on a booster, WOT, all 4 plugs out, TCI disconnected. For consistent, maximum results)

 

Agreed. A cold, dry test on an engine that's been sitting for that long (since last July) won't give you anything you can trust. The above advice is valid; run it for a bit then test again.

 

And if we want to be pedantic, remove the air filter as well.

 

Ok, I will adjust valves and run it little bit and then test again (first I have to get rust out of my tank, or make some temporary thing to get gas to carbs. And almost stripped spark plug thread should get helicoiled too :roll: )

~65500km on the clock.

Battery was full, full open throttle, all 4 plugs out and TCI were disconnected when did test, but yeah, I should run it warm and test again...

 

The "almost stripped out" plug hole isn't by any chance #3, is it? (Might have affected the compression test.)

 

Actually it is, but test was done with cheap tester which has that rubber end what you push against plug hole Did many rounds though to get as good result as I could. Tester has 14mm and 18mm adapters but no 12mm and I'm not sure would it hold good anyway because there is only 2 or 3 rounds thread left in the end of that plug hole... Spark have holded somehow but it really should get fixed...

 

Spark have holded somehow but it really should get fixed...

 

Several Spark Plug Hole Repair Kits are available.
HeliCoil being the Pioneering Company.

There is also: "Save-a-Thread" -and- "TimeSert"

This one is marketed by Sears and is available through Amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14- ... B0002SRF4O

 

Tip for using the HeliCoil: Remove the exhaust pipe on the affected cylinder, and rotate the motor over slowly until the exhaust valve is open (you'll see it move through the port.) Replace the exhaust pipe with the nozzle of your shop vac and turn it on when you start the HeliCoil process, so it immediately sucks any metal shavings out of the cylinder.

 

Take the extra time to make sure that you are "Comfortable" when you embark upon the process of repairing the Spark Plug Hole's stripped Threads.

You can "Un-clamp" the Handle Bars and move them out of the way.

Use a stool or a chair that will let you be comfortable and precise when starting the Repair Tool Tap in the damaged hole.
You'll want to be able to concentrate on what your hands are doing and feeling rather than being distracted by a kink in you back.

Good light.
An assistant with a BIG Flashlight with new batteries is a huge plus.