Now I'm really in trouble...

So 2 of the screws that hold the engine side covers on got stuck when I tried removing them. Tried heating them up and grabbing them with a vice grip and they broke off shorter. Today I tried drilling and extracting them and not only do I have 2 screws stuck in the crankcase now, I have 2 easy-outs stuck in the 2 screws stuck in my crankcase. Any help?

PS. Has anyone had success with easy-outs, or is it just my bad luck?

 

Last time I broke an ezyout in a bolt.. I took it to a local engineering shop and they sorted it for me..

But yea, ouch

 

Once the easy out is snapped & you can't extricate it, it's machine shop time.
Rewind: if you had used a lefthanded drill bit, just slightly smaller than the bolt / stud, usually the heat generated by the drilling will loosen it.

 

I had the same problem with a broken intake bolt.

Basically, my lady's father is a welder, and he welded on to it, and built it up until he could weld a washer and nut on it. After that, he just worked it with an impact wrench and it came out.

 

I've used easy-outs successfully for years. The key is proper preparations. You HAVE to get the hole dead-nuts centered or you will end up where you are. If you can, make a guide for the centering punch to center it up (drill a hole a few thousands larger than the punch in a small bit of metal and you are set). I've built one and reaped the rewards of success... http://spaco.org/Blacksmithing/TapDrillBlock.htm.
In a perfect world, you use a transfer punch ( http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... sfer+punch ) to make the divot that you want your drill bit to bite into. Quality reverse twist drill bits are a great investment for this application (hint: the Harbor Freight cheapies don't cut it, literally). You can find them at Lowes or other quality hardware store.
Use a lubricant! WD40, motor oil, tranny fluid, they all will work. They keep the bit cooler and will encourage better cutting. Use the drill bit guide to keep the bit straight. Once you have the hole started (small chips are a good thing, as is regular lubricating) you should press hard enough to see small chips being formed but not harder. You will overheat the bit resulting in temper loss and dulling. Be prepaired with additional bits (1/8" is a great size and cheap) to swap out as needed until you have your hole as deep as needed to engage the easy-out. Then drill out that pilot hole with the bit size needed for the easy-out. This will reduce the wear and tear on the larger bit, allowing for a longer tool life. I usually use PB-Blaster as my lube (Marvel Mystery Oil in a pinch) which has the added benefit of soaking into the threads while I am heating up the fastener with the drill bit. Gently tap the easy-out into the newly formed hole and, by hand with a short handle, turn the stuck fastener out. Remember, lefty-loosy, righty-tighty. For screws I have a nice set of drill extractors from Sears ( http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G1 ). They have less expensive sets available and they are perfect for screws.
Good luck to you on those broken easy-outs, a good machine shop should be able to set you right.

 

Hey thanks guys. Hopefully I won't need any of your advice again in the future but I do appreciate it! My uncle's a mechanic so when he gets some time I'll see if he can work his magic, but worst case we have a couple shops in town. It's just driving me mad because I was ready to put the engine back in the frame yesterday, short of getting these screws out.

 

You can DISSOLVE it: http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=574 This stuff won't touch aluminum but dissolves all ferrous metals. It should wipe out the EZ-Out and the broken stubs.

 

Intriguing... Is this stuff available at automotive stores or is it only online?

 

This will dissolve the stuck screws then too, right?

 

Yup.

 

Can I use that stuff on the bolts holding my exhaust headers to the engine head?

 

Are your cylinder head and headers non-ferrous? This stuff will dissolve anything a magnet will stick to as well as brass and other metals. Read the link carefully for the list of metals that it dissolves.

Loren

 

Well, I don't really care about the headers. Want to replace the whole damn thing.

 

That product was designed for "pinpoint" use, like a broken stud/bolt/tap/extractor. You can't just paint it on stuff and watch it dissolve, like your exhaust system.

To remove your exhaust system, get some Kroil: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ and "pre-soak" the exhaust flange nuts for a couple of days before attempting removal; they should come right off.

Then you could use the Tap-X product IF you were to break a bolt in the process. Chances are it won't be necessary.

 

Sorry, was that a yes to getting the tap-x in stores? Or is it just online?

 

An industrial-supply house might have it or be able to order it.

If you have problems with shipping to Canada, we'll work something out and you can just come over and pick it up.

 

have you ever used it yourself?

dave