Float needle question

I may have made a newbie mistake, but just want to clarify. I pulled the float needle out and let it soak in carb cleaner for about an hour. When I put the needle back in, the rubber tip disintegrated. Is this because the needle shouldn't sit in cleaner, or was it probably about done with anyway? (Didn't realize until it disintegrated that the tip was rubber...again, a newbie mistake)

Since I now have to replace it, my next question is - should I also replace the valve, or can I just replace the needle with an OEM? I'll probably be reaching out to Chacal today, but wanted to get some opinions on where I went wrong first...

 

I don't think rubber likes carb cleaner very much. That may have something to do with it. If it looks like it melted off -- probably the carb cleaner. If a good chunk came off like it was crusty -- it was probably ready to go anyways.

You don't have to replace the whole assembly -- just the float needle with the rubber tip. I think they come in packs of 4 so you can just replace them all.

 

Better to replace the seats with the needles as a set.

 

It came off chunky, which is why I was thinking it might have been ready to go anyway.

I was considering replacing the seats as well, partially because my mesh filters are flattened, not half-globes likes I see in the pics in the manual. Is this something to be concerned with, or is it ok if the mesh is flattened?

 

Just pitch the mesh beanies. You're going to be running an inline fuel filter anyway.

 

That reminds me - need to replace one of the fuel lines (will probably just replace all anyway). What size/diameter fuel line do I need?

Also, completely separate question - I unscrewed the pilot fuel jet on my first carb (the notch was all torn up from the previous owner's attempt at carb cleaning, but managed to get it out anyway), and all that came out was what looked like a cap. Is this supposed to be a long jet (similar to the main jet nozzle) that is connected to the piece that unscrews? Having a hard time finding any pics of this piece.

Thanks for walking the new guy through some of the basics, by the way. I've read through all of the carb threads on this forum so far, which have been really helpful, but still finding myself with lots of questions...

 

wktiz
If you use after market needle and seat assemblies be sure to polish the seat area with abrasive type toothpaste on a Q tip in a drill motor. I have installed several of the aftermarket needle and seat sets and flooding occurs because the needles will not seal in the seat. The tapered area that was cut in the seat from the factory is rough and left tooling marks, you can see them with a 5 power loupe.
Also set up your float levels on the bench before you install them on the bike.
Or at least check the levels on the engine before you install the (Boots to airbox) the aftermarket needles are longer than OEM and will require a new float adjustment.
You will also find that all the float hight's will be a little different to get the correct fuel level on all 4 carbs. This may take many adjustments to get the levels right so be patient.
Wrench

 

Bigfitz, I think it would be unwise to pitch the mesh beanies, the are the last line of defense before the float valve, so if some crud happened to get by the filter it could be leak time where you least want it.

 

You are correct. That was an old posting (Feb) and we've since had a BIG discussion to that effect; and I've crossed over to the "replace 'em they're the last line of defense" camp.