Clutch Parts Question

Anyone have experience with the Barnett Clutch or EBC clutch springs?

Which one is the superior spring?

Edit: I miss wrote this. It should have been Barnett Clutch SPRINGS or EBC clutch springs.

 

I've used EBC on 3 of my bikes with zero issues. Not sure on Barnett though.

 

Those in the High Performance and Racing Community would steer you to Barnett.

But, I think Barnett makes Clutches using different materials for Performance applications. Kevlar and metallics and such.

I know you can order Heavy Duty Hardware.

Be true to yourself.
Put the Bike together for the way you'll ride it.
If you're a guy who goes to the end of the Tach and Engine Brakes before taking the off-ramp, ... stick a Performance Clutch in it.

 

I've done quite a bit of testing of clutch components, both OEM and various aftermarket manufacturers, and can tell you this:

The Barnett springs will be a tad stronger, and have a more "linear" feel than the OEM but not quite as stiff as the "stiffer" aftermarket (K & L) springs.

I would recommend Barnett springs with a Barnett clutch; but I would use them ONLY with a Barnett clutch.

Personally I prefer OEM Yamaha springs for overall performance without tiring your hand out.

I found the "15% stiffer" K & L springs unnecessarily stiff.

I haven't tried the EBC springs or clutch components.

I am currently running a full Barnett clutch in one of my 550 Secas; and a rebuilt clutch consisting of new OEM springs, K & L friction plates, and the original plain plates, (reconditioned with Scotchbrite) in the other 550 Seca. The rebuilt clutch performs flawlessly; I adjusted it once about 200 miles after installed and haven't touched it since; that was over 3000 miles ago.

I only have about 700 miles on the Barnett so far; it too works very well (as expected.) It does have a slightly heavier pull than stock.

 

If you aren't going to Track Day or run the Bike in quarter-mile duels, ... don't bother with Heavy Duty Springs.

I thought having a "Competition Clutch" in my 900 was going to be real cool and let me get to the next traffic light before everybody else.
Nope.
Bad choice.
I was using the Bike as a Daily Rider.
The "Heavy" Clutch tool its toll on my left hand.

I found myself shifting into Neutral to give my hand a break from all that squeezing.

 

Racing is not my thing.
Im riding mine mostly in town. Lots of stop and go in Tulsa.

 

I recommend you do a basic rebuild; as long as your plain plates are fine all you'll need would be friction plates, new springs and a gasket. Stick to OEM springs, run whosever friction plates you want, and you'll be happy.

 

Any special tools required?

I just bought a new torque wrench for this job.

 

No special tools unless you need to remove the hub (which you shouldn't have to.)

 

whats the torque spec if anyone knows it off the bat?

 

7.2 ft/lbs

read this
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... +spec.html

 

thanks a million Bill!

 

WHOA! Which torque spec? The clutch hub? It's like 52 ft/lb. And use a new tab washer.

The bolts for the SPRINGS are either 7.2 ft/lb(650/750, etc.) or 5.8 ft/lb(550/600.)

Case bolts are always 7.2 ft/lb.

 

i was looking for the spring bolt spec

but deff thanks for the extra info!

 

There's no such thing as a dumb question.

But, there are questions for which answers are readily available all in one neat volume.

The Factory WorkShop Manual.
Or,
The Haynes Manual
Or,
A Clymer Workshop Manual.
Or, God forbid ... you should decide to get each and everyone of the Yamaha Manuals illegally pirated onto a Multi-Disc Set ...

At least you could look something up.

Put Workshop Manual on your list of things you should have right away.