Setting the floats

Good or bad this is what happened today.
I KNOW for a fact my floats were not set correctly, at least 2 of them were off. (the carb (s) were loading up at stop lights.
I didn't have the option of a clear tube method b/c the drain screws are stripped severely.
The next option was to use a ruler marked in mm's (17.5mm).
After a few minutes of measuring I found 1 and 2 to me be set high.
I played with the tang for another few minutes while measuring the progress.
This is the part where it gets dumb or genius... you decide.
I pick up the rack right side up... looking at the floats at eye level... going back and forth with the adjustment and eyeballing the floats hanging in front of me until 1 and 2 were the same as 3 and 4.

I hope it works.

 

If the rack is off the bike, a couple of seized-in drain screws are no problem. You're pulling/replacing the float bowls anyway; so you simply swap your good bowls around until you can clear-tube set all 4 carbs; then put them back where they belong.

Dry-setting, like you did, will only get you close; and quite often you'll have one or two still WAY off when you check their actual function with fuel. You're going to need to get at least one or two drains working, dry-setting simply isn't accurate enough.

I wouldn't depend on them being even "close enough" the way you did it, sorry.

 

Thanks Fitz, I did find one I can turn a little.
I'm going to try this again the way you mentioned.

DUMB QUESTION: As for clear tubing off the bike.

How do I get the gas in the float bowl?

 

You need to get a fuel source above the carburetors so the fuel will gravity feed to them. One thing that works without much trouble is sticking the carburetors back into the holders with a long fuel hose to the tank sitting on a tall stool or a bench.

If you've got the bowls off unsticking the drain screws should be easy. Screw the bowls to a scrap of wood mounted in a vice. Heat the float bowl in the area of the screw. The aluminum will expand away from the screw making it easier to remove. Don't apply enough heat to melt the aluminum though.....

I believe Chacal sells a set of nice socket head drain screws to replace those buggered Phillips ones.

 

I "borrow" the fuel tank off my kid's minibike because it has an on off valve, and just hang it from a rafter in the garage.

 

replace those drain screws. I stumbled upon this guy who sold me a set of four allen head stainless steel for $12 SHIPPED. best deal ever. just send him an email and he'll be surprised to hear from you. in fact when I emailed him asking to purchase a set, he was shocked cause he hadn't made or sold any in a couple years.

Carb bowl drain screws

btw: again sorry for the faulty brake switch. hope the other parts are working for ya

 

I learning to live without the brake switch LOL.
BTW, your link to the screws is dead.

 

Len carries the aftermarket socket-head drain screws as well as OE replacements.

 

anybody else try the link? work? i can open my link as well as the quoted link

 

Link check 4.0, Arizona Steve is still selling them.

 

As others have said; replace the drain screws (I had a similar problem with my 750J). Chacal does stock them; HCP864 for OEM philips, HCP54 for aftermarket stainless allen head, and a few other options. Plus, I'll just leave this link here in case you find it useful.

 

Did my floats last weekend - found that one of these radiator overflow tanks from the neighborhood autoparts store made a pretty convenient $10 aux fuel tank

 

Now that is Kentucky engineering at its finest. Not only is it inexpensive it includes the handy wall mounting bracket. I like! :wink: