Newb questions

So I apologize if this is a repeat question, but I searched the forum for like an hour and could not find the answer. I have an 85 Maxim 700 and I want to do an oil change. I was wondering if anyone knew that part code for the filter. Also, this will be my first oil change on this bike I was wondering what bolts I need to remove to get all the oil out and where the fill plug is. If anyone has any links to a write up or how to that could be helpful also. Thank you for your help.

 

FRAM CH6003 comes with both o-rings, and are readily available at most big auto parts stores.

The drain plug is a big 19MM hex, and it's located on the front of the sump on the very bottom/front of the motor, back a little ways between #2 and #3 pipes. Yours may or may not have a phillips screw in the center of it.



The oil filter housing is that big "Buck Rogers" finned thing on the front of the motor between the pipes. The center bolt comes out and the whole assembly gets removed; you install the new filter into the housing then reattach. In order: You put the bolt (#4) into the housing (with its new o-ring #5 on it) then the spring (#8) and thin washer (#7,) then the filter (#2) with the "dented" side toward the spring (and toward the front of the bike.) The flat side of the filter gets pressed against the engine block by the spring. It's a good idea to replace the crush ring (#16) on the drain plug but not super critical, it can get re-used a couple of times.



NOTE: The tightening torque for both the drain plug and the filter housing is NOT real tight. The drain plug goes to 31 Ft/lb; the filter housing ONLY 11 Ft/lb.

The filler plug is on top of your clutch housing, and has a number (for instance, 2500CM3) cast into the housing nearby. That number is your "official" oil capacity, in this case 2500CCs or 2.5 litres. A slight overfill will probably be needed to get the exact level:

With the bike on the centerstand or held vertical, motor OFF for at least 10 minutes, the oil should be right to the top of the sight glass (on the bottom of the clutch housing) with just a "bubble" showing at the top.

Use conventional MOTORCYCLE oil; Castrol 4T is readily available plus I often find Havoline or other brands at the auto parts as well. You can run 10W40 in cooler weather otherwise 20W50 (20W40 was originally recommended but hard to find these days.) You'll need to buy 3 bottles, and should have some left.

 

Well first off, please put your bike year and model in you signature so we know which one we're dealing with. Location helps also, so we know if you are using the metric system, or if you live 2 blocks down the street and we can just stop over and give a hand.

BUT....all XJ's are pretty much the same so here goes:

Use a Fram CH6003, it will come with the o-rings you need.

Oil drain bolt is below the oil filter housing (softball sized box on front lower of motor).
Pull oil drain bolt and let drain.
Unscrew oil filter housing and remove filter and o-ring.
Clean housing out with a lint-free rag and re-install oil filter(don't forget the spring).
Oil the o-ring and install in the groove on the housing.
Clean off the mating surface on the motor before re-installing oil filter housing. Tighten bolt to spec.
Oil bolt o-ring and install on drain bolt, reinstall drain bolt tightening to spec.
Oil fill cap is on right side of bike, on top of crankcase. It will have a number something like "2500cm3" right next to it. That's the metric amount of oil it will hold. Your number may be different depending on your motor. 2500cm3 is roughly 5.6 U.S. PINTS (a little over 2.5 U.S. Quarts)
Add oil SLOWLY untill the oil reaches ALMOST the top of the oil fill window on the crankcase. You should have a small "bubble" at the top of the window.
Re-install fill cap and start motor. Let run for a couple minutes, checking for oil leaks.
Then shut off and let sit for a few minutes to let the oil level
"settle" before checking and adding if needed.

I'd take a couple pics of the bolts for you, but my camera cord got chewed in half last night. If you need help PM me and I can take a pic with my phone and text it.

EDIT: Oh, I see Fitz beat me too it! Us Michiganders are helpful little s#@ts, aren't we?

 

Hey we try. It's CH6003; the "PH" prefix are can-type (spin-on) filters, "CH" are cartridges (just the innards.) No such thing as a PH6003.

And yep, other than the oil capacity, these XJs are pretty much all the same, oil-change wise.

 

Bigfitz, the Fram oil filter: CH6003 that comes with both O-rings would that also work for the 1981 XJ750R Seca? The motorcycle shop where I have been ordering my parts for this re-build just told me when I asked that the oil filter O-ring which go's into the block is $10.00 alone! I told him as you can guess that I didn't think that was going to happen this day. I'll be looking for your comeback! I thought that that should be one that would work where it wasn't called a motorcycle filter but rather an automotive. Also, who was the smarty that put the can all the exhaust pipes go into right under the drain center drain plug for the oil? To me it looks like I have to drop the whole rig to get to that drain? grunt007 ))

 

First off, a "tip" when quoting a post with pics, knock the "" links out so you only quote the text.

Yes, the CH6003 will work with the 750 Seca; it is the same filter for all the XS400DOHCs, the XJ550/650/750/900 and the 700s, both standard and "X." And it comes with both o-rings.

It's a "MOTORCYCLE" filter but most large auto parts chains carry them as well (and so does chacal of course.) Advance Auto has them for like $5; my local Yamaha store wants $14 [i]for the FRAM.[/i]

And no need to drop the exhaust system, the drain is just forward of the edge of the collector box; you will need a decently long extension, and I always recommend using 6-point sockets to prevent slipping off/rounding.

If you're referring to the exhaust blocking the [i]middle gear drain plug[/i] don't sweat it. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to touch the middle gear drain, just the plug on the front of the sump.

 

Oh, crap, thanks for catching that Fitz. I knew that but I deal with so many customers needing car filters that I just automatically type a "P" instead of "C". My bad. I fixed it to read correctly.

Grunt, the CH6003 comes with both o-rings, and costs around 7 or 8 bucks at the auto store. And yes, same filter as my 650R or Fitz's 550.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, super informative post. Can it maybe be moved to the tech writeup section for future users to find?

 

Bigfitz52, Hey, thanks for the info on the oil filter. The motorcycle shop I have been ordering parts through wants $10.00 just for the large oil seal, I think I said that before??? Funny how SUCKS THINGS just sort of stick in one's mind.
My wife and I were leaving for a motorcycle show this morning out to the Gibralter Center in MT. CLEMENS, MI. but when we found out that it was not going to also be a swap meet we canned it. Instead we ended going to a Grand Opening Yamaha store in Brighton, MI. I met the owner and he gave me their web site and explained to me that if I wouild deal directly through them that my prices on Yamaha parts ect. would be much cheaper???? Well see about that??? Either way it's nice to know about that oil filter, every few bucks saved helps to make it to the completion of the job. Question: Why is it when someone in here does a great right up on something like changing to a large round headlight which I have been wanting to do the wiring schematic and changes ect. I would have liked to have printed out on my printer but it never prints the important part??? How do I get around that?? Some of this stuff is darn good and I would like to print it out and file it. grunt007

 

Bigfitz52, Hey buddy I just got to disagree with you on the subject of not to worry about the gear case drain plug under the exhaust collecter. I working on this 81'XJ750R Seca I find that the oil is crap on draining it out with sludge buildups in it. In taking off the outer shift housing to change a broken spring on the shifter I found more SLUDGE going back into the block. I think what I am seeing is that the previous owner negected doing oil changes as regularly as he should have or????He had the belief that pumping the oil out is better because you don't have to worry about stripping the threads on the drain plug and it's easier. Well, same old story-NO PAIN NO GAIN!- There are valleys where when oil is pumped out the oil is never removed. Over time, now over 30 years on this machine this ends up being sludge which can block things which we don't want blocked!
I will always drain and change oil filters every time and with this machine before I am done I may just pull the entire exhaust system and pull the bottom pan just to make sure that I get all of the oil (sludge) out of it. As far as stripping the threads on the drain plug, a little bit of No Seize on the threads should ensure that there are never any threads lost. JUST MY OPINION!)))))) (Personally it wouldn't surprise me if by the time I get done with this bike that I don't have to do Pistons, and cylinders, 18,000 miles! grunt007

 

Just a heads up from my experience, Part #7 which is circled in the schematic above may have a tendancy to "Stick" to the rubber grommet #3 and need to be peeled off to re use. Also a good tip to prevent oil getting all over your pipes during an oil change is to get some tin foil and wrap the pipes, that way when you are done just remove the tin foils and no oil on the pipes or collector.
One last thing, there should be a tab on the top of the external filter #1 that lines up with a notch on the case, make sure you check that and that it aligns properly.
Make sure to use a torque wrench and not tighten it by feel. Just sayin'.

 

Yes, it does. Part #7 is often MISSING altogether; it was from both of my 550s.

Grunt; what you're saying can be true; HOWEVER: Because the middle gear drain plug is easily stripped or broken, when a self proclaimed "newbie" asks about it, we generally recommend it be left alone rather than have a neophyte mechanic cause himself a disaster he won't easily recover from.

 

Thanks for this post guys, helped me a lot to change my oil today.

The search feature on these forums is great!

 

FYI

Buy 4 quarts of Valvoline conventional motorcycle oil and a FRAM filter for $19.99. Oil Change Specials cannot be in your cart if using a coupon code. Please purchase separately.

No I don't work there, just saw it online. Picking some up today.

 

Sorry to jack your thread, but does anyone know the SIZE of the crush washer on the oil drain bolt? I want to pick up a new one at the store today, but need to ride my motorcycle there...

 

Try Len at XJ4ever, the engine icon at the top right of this page.