How to read the oil glass window

Hi guys i just got this old 81 xj650 up and running and was wondering what is full in the window?? when not running window should be filled and when running should be a half??? and what is everyone running for oil?? right now i have 20/50 in it

 

On the center stand, engine off, it should be near the top of the window. Running it'll empty the window completely and is meaningless.

When I ran 20W50 in my XJ650 I couldn't get the clutch adjusted to a point where it would release cold and not slip hot. It liked 10W40 much better. It's possible my clutch was less than perfect. Lots of people run 20W50 and like it.

 

Not sure I'm right, but on the kickstand, cold, I try to keep mine around half. I've never run anything but 20w50, and I've never had a problem with it.

 

Yeah, from what I've seen, you won't see little if any oil in the sight glass when on the kick-stand, only when level or on the center stand, and then, from what I have read, you want it almost full except for a little bubble at the top of the sight glass. This works well for me as I started off with bad floats and could immediately tell when they were dumping gas into my oil because the bubble would disappear. I'd go with 20w50 (motorcycle oil) not car oil and fill it so that you get a little bubble only in the sight-glass and go from there. Remember if you smell gas on the oil cap or in the hole, that you will need to change the oil and filter, pull the carbs and clean them and adjust your floats. Plenty of great write-ups on here about how to do all of it.

Good luck!

Mac

 

what everyone else said, center stand, bike not running, middle or high on the window. Really if you can see any in the window you'll make it home just fine.

I run 20w50 year round, in the winter the clutch does drag a little until she warms up.

 

If you're seeing ANY oil when the bike is on the sidestand, it's overfilled.

Oil level checking has to be done with the bike vertical, as in on the centerstand. If you don't have a centerstand, it needs to be held vertical when checked.

Might want to be sure your air filter isn't oil-soaked.

 

A quick note on the oil, make sure that it is for motorcycles with transmission and crankcase combined. Regular automotive oil has friction modifiers which will affect clutch operation and drastically reduce clutch life.

 

adding to the above good advise is the "why" -

fill on centerstand so you just see a small bubble so IF your carbs happen to flood out and you get gas in your oil, you will know.

Having the oil this full also helps keep the engine oil level light from coming on during acceleration.

Engines consume oil - new oil "outgasses" light elements. If you fill to the middle of the sight glass, you will soon be too low.

 

Thanks for the correction. Never got a straight answer from anyone... they all had newer bikes. With dipsticks.

 

I've been using Shell Rotella 15-40 for many years with no problems..clutch or otherwise. Good stuff and not terribly expensive. Everything I've read on using automotive motor oil in bikes from people who've actually done the research has lead me to believe you won't have any problems doing so. In some cases the "motorcycle oils' actually performed much worse on many levels than average quality automotive oils. There are multiple articles throughout the web which can back this up using real data and statistics. Read this: Motorcycle Oil Vs Auto Oil
Do some research of your own and I think you'll stop wasting money on expensive super-duper motorcycle oil.
Read this: Motorcycle Oil Vs Auto Oil
There are many more.
That's my two cents...
Mike

 

Not to highjack the thread. This is a controversial topic. At a quick glance, the article, Motorcycle Oil Vs Auto Oil, to engines only, not combined transmission/crankcase. The friction modifiers used in automotive oils, will over time, affect the clutch life. The effect may not be immediate but is it worth the gamble?

 

+1 on the Rotella T oil from Wally World !

Reading further into that article - amazing at the amount of viscosity lost at just 800 miles (in a bike) was more than 3,200 miles in a 4CYL car.

 

The problems with using "automotive" oils in motorcycles with wet clutches (and sprag-type starter clutches) are a recent development as more and more manufacturers are adding "fuel economy improving" friction modifiers to their car oil.

Yes, there are "conventional" automotive/truck oils that will work ok in our bikes; just as there are semi-synthetic products specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches which work well also.

But as a general rule of thumb, and for recommending to a "noob" what oil to buy, sticking to "motorcycle specific" is a good way to stay out of trouble.

 

On the topic of oil is there a certain brand and visc that anyone would suggest I have always used Castrol GTX in all my cars and trucks Will run valvoline as well absolutely hate penz and quaker (have seen what those two can do to an engine) all opinions welcome I do live on the front range in colorado so i am at high alt approx 5 to 6 thousand feet

 

Just found this article referenced by Chacal. It confirms the use of motorcycle oil in power sport equipment where the crankcase and transmission are lubricated by one oil.


http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... oroil.html

 

I have lived on Castrol GTX 20W50 for the last 40+ years until they betrayed us.

Now Castrol themselves admit their "car" oil probably isn't the best thing for motorcycles. Friction modifiers, and all that rot.

Bastiges. At least they fessed up.

I run Castrol 4T conventional for 20W50, and Spectro conventional for 20W40. I'm currently testing Castrol's ACT>EVO 4T semi-synth designed and formulated especially for inline fours. So far, results are quite favorable; but I'm not recommending just yet. Not enough miles.