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GearN00B 1982 XJ750 Project.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by GearN00B, Apr 21, 2011.

  1. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    So after the great response i got from the members of this forum i decided to keep the bike and restore it. So i drove it up to my buddy's place who has some garage space and tools. I brought along my laptop and camera to document my disassembly.

    Somebody really dropped the bike hard.
    [​IMG]

    I wanted to start on the rear wheel and check the breaks. So i get the bike up on center pegs and spin the rear tire. Is it normal for the rear tire to stop almost immediately. Its not like i pulled a wheel of fortune on the tire but it really felt like it was dragging.

    I thought i had to take the exhaust off before i could remove the rear tire. I am probably wrong there. But i ran into something interesting. I knew the bike had been dropped pretty hard for the engine fins to be snapped off. I think they also tore up the muffler and welded it back on.

    [​IMG]

    Picture of a weld i think someone made to the bike.
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the rear fender in its mangled glory before i took it. To bad i live in Washington. I would leave it off. But it rains alot here, and i wanted to turn the bike into my daily ride.

    [​IMG]

    Total Time - 8 Hours

    Since my friends house is out in the sticks, i will be going up there on my day off. Gas is just too expensive to drive out there to work for only 2-3 hours.
     
  2. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Shaft drive and sitting for a while = Stiff dirty brakes. By the looks of the last pic. your rear shoes are maxed or close to it. Deffinately plan on new shoes.

    Soak the cross shaft (axle shaft) with penetrating spray (PB Blaster) before trying to remove. DO NOT for any reason beat on the end of the cross shaft. It will mushroom the threads. If it doesn't move easy after lossening the nut. Don't force it!

    Nice bit of road rash on the hwy bar. cheaper than a new generator though.

    Start by getting a manual Haynes/Clymer or order the XJ CD.

    Will be watching closely
    Good Luck
    Ghost
     
  3. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    Working on this bike really brings me back to the days when i was a kid monkey'in with my huffy.
     
  4. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Your a natural then.

    Surprisingly, workin on vehicles is what I find most relaxing for me. Yes it gets aggravating at times, but relaxing none the less.

    Ghost
     
  5. Xplicit_XJ

    Xplicit_XJ Member

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    Gearnoob, where you from in Washington? Reason I ask is cause I grew up in Eatonville area. Might be making it back there near the end of the summer.
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  7. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    I live in Marysville.

    Thanks for the link bigfitz52, i'll be ordering some of that soon. Some of the bolts literally screeched with rust. Im glad there is a good craftsman metric set of wrenches there to get a good grip on the nuts. (I'll have to take pictures of some of the parts i had to destroy to get off. None of those parts i planned on keeping.)

    I made a comment to my buddy that half the money i'll be dropping on the bike will likely be new screws and bolts for all over. ^_^
     
  8. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    Ordered some Kroil, should be here in a few days.
     
  9. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    I spent my 2 days off working on the bike some more. I forgot my camera at home so no pictures yet. I asked my friend to take some with his phone, we'll see how they turn out. I got the electricals out, the wheels off, and the carbs are off. I didn't have time to start in on them. So i covered them with some plastic, and stuffed towels into the engine openings. I spent most of this morning with a brush and brake cleaner on the front and rear breaks. The pads were close to nothing.

    The bad.

    I still couldn't get the dang rear wheel off the axle. I pulled the axle rod out and kicked and shoved at the rear wheel. So i ended up unbolting shaft from the drive and pulling the whole wheel and shaft off. Tires say 5203. They both look in good shape to me.

    The right exhaust still won't come off either. Banging, shaking, pleading, begging. I may just undo the headers and remove it that way. I kept on thinking i might just cut the exhaust off.

    The reservoir for brake fluid has some truely rusted screws. I tried getting the lid off but started to strip the screws. So looks like i'll have to get an aftermark, or replacement.

    Kroil is on the way, but I've been tackling the rusty bolts with wd-40 and some good craftsman tools.

    I brought the seat home with me to refinish here. If the friend comes through with the pictures i'll have another update soon.
     
  10. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    MORE PICS!

    First thing i did today was change the oil on my Honda Rebel, it needed it.

    [​IMG]

    Then i got to work taking pictures i thought i would post for some advice. First up. The sticky posts about the delaminating rear break. I don't think that's happening to mine. I just can't get the damn rear axel off the wheel still.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The front brake caliper on the right side had some pitting on the plunger. Both o-rings look pretty good.

    [​IMG]

    Still trying to get the exhaust off one the one side. May just take the headers off. Here's a pic of the baffles.

    [​IMG]

    Got the last of the gas out of the tank, ended up having to stuff a old wife beater down in there to soak up the last bit. I was not impressed with the inside.

    [​IMG]



    Finally here's just a pic of the progress i have made in tearing the bike down. You might notice the '51 studabaker in the background my friend never works on.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. dwcopple

    dwcopple Active Member

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    Please be careful working on that bike that close to that car.
     
  12. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    No pictures today, but nothing impressive.

    I took the head off and checked the shims. They were all tight. Every one i could put the first 2 feelers in but not the 3rd. So i guess they were either never replaced, or were replaced at the same time.

    First number is the feeler gauge, second is the shim number and measured width.

    I recall hearing that as time goes on clearances get tighter?

    Out In

    4 .05mm - y275 (.008) .05mm - y290 (.014)

    3 .05mm - y275 (.008) .05mm - y295 (.015)

    2 .05mm - y285 (.012) .05mm - y285 (.011)

    1 .05mm - y290 (.013) .05mm - y275 (.008)


    So its coming along slowly when i get days off.

    400 Dollar bike with 220 in parts so far.
    Noah
     
  13. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    Ordered 150 dollars for parts, really surprised how much shims cost. Ouch, no wonder the PO's never did it.

    I'd like to mod the bike up after i get it running well. But we'll see how it smokes after i get it buttoned back up and manage to jury rig up a wiring harness.

    The tank is really rusty inside, might go with the "bolts and diesel, shake shake idea" suggested by a friend.

    Can't really think of anything else, bike is progressing slowly.
     
  14. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that tank, from there, doesn't look that bad but take the gas gauge sender off and see what the bottom looks like
     
  15. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    When i go up to the shop next week i'll bring the camera. I was just worried that i would do all this work and end up with rusty gas in a year or two. I would prefer not to use that coatings.
     
  16. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Just a couple options for you on the tank cleaning.

    Chain instead of screws - Easier to remove afterwards.
    50/50 CLR/Water mix instead of the diesel - Safe, Biodegradable, just pour it down the drain afterwards.

    If you are going to store the tank off the bike while working on it.
    Fill the tank with white cider vinegar. The slight acidic nature of the vinegar will keep the rust from reforming. noncorrosive, and will not harm metal, plastic, or rubber parts. Flush throughly before reuse with water, and use dry gas/gasline antifreeze, or seafoam to remove any remaining moisture from the tank.

    If your not going to seal the tank. Make sure you keep the tank filled to keep the rust from returning.

    Ghost
     
  17. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    Thank you for the advice, i'll pick up a length of chain and some clr from home depot.
     
  18. GearN00B

    GearN00B Member

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    Would CLR work on exhaust heads too?
     

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