750 clutch adjustment for dummies?

Started out that the bike was slipping a bit in high RPMs, figured I'd try adjusting the clutch first. Now it's so far the other way I can't get the bike into gear without it dying. I've tried reading the threads here and the Haynes, but nothing makes sense. Can someone help me with a step-by-step walkthrough? Pics would be nice as well, especially where the swingarm is supposed to line up to on the case. Thanks.

 

all the adjusting in the world won't help sacked out clutch springs

 

The way I did mine was diconnected the cable from the swingarm and pulled it up until it gave me resistance. Extended the cable all the way out until the fat end is almost below the top of the arm. Then tightened it from the lower adjustment while keeping the top adjustment out about a 3/8 to a half an inch. Gives a good amount of adjustability at the bars. You should have almost 0 freeplay at the bars. If thats good then could be clutch springs,plats, or maybe even oil. My bike used to slip if I jolted the power on at any rpm but since ive adjusted it like that it hasent even dared try to slip.

 

You don't want zero play. You want 1mm-3mm, as specified. If you run zero play, you'll quickly burn up the "wafer bearing" on the backside of the "pull"rod.

If the clutch slips when properly adjusted, then it's time for new springs and quite probably new friction plates. Thirty year old friction plates tend to start slipping long before actually being "worn" out, thickness-wise. They get old, and dry out, becoming petrified in the process. Once subjected to actual use again, they quickly glaze up and/or begin to crumble. Replacing the clutch friction plates and springs is nearly as necessary as replacing the brake pads on a thiry year old bike. Do it right the first time and you can cross it off the list. Or fiddle with it forever.

 

I'm not sure it started properly adjusted, felt like it was tightened just a bit more than zero play. Also, thought this would give me some good practice for when I do replace the springs and plates. But then, I had to drive the SUV to work today.

 

Over the years, I have found that ZERO LASH, ... Not an Inch-Pound tighter, ... But where all the Wiggle Room is removed from the Clutch Cable is an ideal adjustment.

The Clutch Throw-Out has a Mechanism to assure that the Adjustment isn't too tight.
The Clutch Perch Cable Tension Adjuster will allow you to make a Highly Precise Adjustment to the Cable to remove the Slack.

The Clutch NEEDS ALL the Throw-Out you can supply.

A Firm Cable provides:

NO "Red Light Creep"
NO "Neutral Finding Fight"
No "Clunking-down into Gear"

If HEAT or AGE affect the Cable and an Adjustment is necessary; it could NOT be more Simple.

Just UN-Lock the Thumb-Wheel and make which-ever adjustment is necessary.

 

Well now I have the handlebar adjust all the way in, case adjust all the way up, can't get the swingarm off the pushrod, and the clutch will not fully "let out" so only part of the power hits the rear wheel. Am I on the right course?

 

Nope.

Put the handlebar adjuster at about halfway.

Put the lower cable at about halfway.

If necessary, remove the arm from the clutch throwout shaft and reposition it so it stops moving clockwise (when viewed from above) at the point where it lines up with the end of the cable, give or take.*

Then reattach the cable, and fine tune your adjustment at the top.

* When the throwout shaft operates, it moves clockwise (viewed from above.) You can only turn it manually to the point where all the slack is taken up in the mechanism (inside) and that is the point at which the cable pulling on it starts to release the clutch, rather than just taking up slack.

Your lever position might be fine, and you've run yourself out of adjustment with the cable. Loosen them both up; put the bottom more or less in the middle; and then see where you're at, as above.

 

The arm does not move clockwise at all, and it almost lines up opposite the line on the case at rest. I'll adjust the cables to halfway in the morning and see what happens.

 

With the Free Play turned-out of the Activating Rod extending into the Case, ... the Throw-Out Arm should be at 8 O'Clock on the Top of the Rod's Splines.

The Pivot Swivel on the Throw-out Arms Cable-end Attachment is Pre-set to 5.0cm's distant from the LOWER Cap Screw which attaches the Cable-end Mount to the Case.

Eight O'Clock, ... or Back, ... closer to 7:30 than forward approaching 9 O'Clock.

Undo the Hex Nuts at the Cable End Barrel End Adjustment and MOVE the WHOLE Cable to get it right.

MEASURE ==> 5.0 cm's (Ctr -to-Ctr)

 

Thank you Rick! I'll have to measure that up tomorrow before I work the cables.

 

Got it fixed! Now the clutch grabs torque like I grab my wife! Granted, it takes the whole clutch lever to disengage and shift, but it's no big deal and I'm guessing might even be normal. Thanks for the help, especially Rick.

 

I hate making adjustments to the Lower Barrel Adjustment.
It's "Minimalistic Design" is frustrating.

I modified the arrangement to allow for quick adjusting.

I drilled Holes to allow Small Tie Wraps to retain the Barrel and not let it slip-out during adjustment.

I added Hardware.
Flat washers and Nylon Washers inside the Hex's. (Rubber Cable End removal Required).

The Nylon Flats "Squish" into the Bracket ends, ... holding the Barrel Adjuster firmly in place.
Flats protect the Nylon outsides and platform the Hex Nuts.

I can loosen the Barrel and move it up or down without it popping-out of the Bracket.

 

Lots easier to get to on the 550s. Until I got my 650 I never realized why the lower cable adjuster was such an issue.

 

Rick, mine appears to be stock, but I didn't have any trouble in adjusting it. Then again, it's all the way down at the bottom and all the way in at the lever, only want to "adjust" it now is a new cable.

 

You can take an extra Spline to give you some "Play" with the Barrel End.

Set it up so you get the Maximum Throw Movement at the Throw-out Arm.

You might have to hold the Rod tight and take a Spline to the Rear on the Throw Out.

 

I'll keep that in mind if it comes up. For now, I don't see any issues.

 

Hi everyone, photos would be good with arrows pointing to the items mentioned, as I have know idea what anyone is talking about, the only things I'm sure about is Cable and Clutch on this thread and the only way for folks like me is visual.
I'm in exactly the same boat as the OP and I need help desperately on my clutch.