Carb teardown help

Well, the parts and JIS drivers arrived at the same time today and I've started the lower half of the Mikuni's for my 550. I've read about how fragile the float pillars are and have a dilemma. Two of the float pins came out with just mild tapping with a brass rod. The other two are currently resisting my gentle tapping. Any tips on convincing them to come out?

Thanks.

 

I don't tap, but instead use a pair of fine side nippers to grip the float pin head, and gently pull 'em out. A squirt of penetrating oil, such as kroil, or 3M 5-way also helps

 

PB Blaster, and heating it up a bit but not too much..

 

Take a Putty Knife.
Sharpen one side.
Use the Putty Knife to get the "Nail-head" away from the Pillar.

Sacrifice a decent Pair of Diagonal Cutting Pliers. (Wire Cutters)
Grind a FLAT Surface on the Back-side of the Cutting Jaws.
Flat!
Make the Jaws "Slender" at the Top.

Use this Tool to Grab the SPACE between the Hinge's Nail Head and the Flat of the Pillar.
DO NOT PRY!!!
Grab onto the Hinge Pin from 12 O'Clock.

If it will Rotate. Squeeze HARD and ROTATE.
DO NOT PRY.
Keep Grabbing and Rotating until the Pin comes Loose.

Fabricate a NEW PIN from an ALUMINUM Pop Rivet Shank with correct OD.
It's OK if the NEW Hinge Pin "Floats".
Cut the Replacement Hinge Pin to fit within the relief of the Fuel Bowl.

 

I use an automatic center punch on them. They usually come out with only a few shots.

 

Brilliant!
I'll be adding a Automatic Center Punch to my Toolbox right away.

(I thought you were poking fun until I Googled it.)

This one, ... for 10-Bucks OK?
Or is there a better choice?

MiCarl to the Rescue.
Thanks a loot.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-3068-lisle-30280.aspx

 

I used nippers on the two stubborn pins and the popped right off. Thanks!

 

One other thing. In the rebuild kit, there is a small, silver disk with a hole it it that doesn't seem to match anything in my carbs. What the heck is that thing? Having leftover parts always makes me nervous.

 

Not my idea originally. Saw it somewhere else..... I use whatever Harbor Freight sells. It had got to where it was pretty weak until I did a little refurbishing on it. I expect any brand will work fine, and some may hold up better.

It also does a pretty good job as a center punch.

Those are plugs for the pilot screw bores. Their purpose is to keep someone from adjusting the mixture. Most discard them.

 

I just did a Mikuni "explosion" if you'd like a parts breakdown: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

 

Thanks for the breakdown! I'm either very unobservant this morning or it's just not there. The part I cant identify is an aluminum disk with a small hole in the center. It's about 1/4 in diameter.

While I'm at it, I ordered idle mixture o-rings from chacal. In the carb rebuild kits there are two o-rings. One looks like it's for the fuel drain screw. The other looks like it could be used for the idle mixture, but it's slightly larger. Am I guessing wrong about their purposes?

 

Could the aluminum disk be the plug for the idle mixture screw? 3 o-rings required: float valve, drain plug and pilot mixture.

 

Those little Discs are New Anti-Tamper Plugs.
Give them to a Model Railroader.