Time estimates for a few "jobs" asssuming no problems??

Well I finally got a job again and hopefully I'll have it at least thru the summer. It's second shift with possible overtime on Saturdays being frequent. So... I have a few hours before work to tinker with the bike (assuming I get up early) and part of Sundays. I have a lot of project in mind (even if I can't afford them or have parts yet).

I figured I'd ask for some rough time estimates for doing a few jobs assuming no major problem or broken bolts.

I also tossed in a few other questions that probably don't warrant a separate post.

FYI: I have a complete parts bike to swap parts with and/or experiment on.

FYI 2: I don't have a garage, but I can partially empty my shed and use the work bench.

Exhaust Swap: I have new engine-to-header gaskets. I'm considering a complete swap headers-to-mufflers. Assuming no broken header bolts or other issues, would under 2hours alone sound about right?

MC/Brake Line Swap: Have a spare OEM MC (clean with new window but not rebuilt yet - have the kit) but no SS brake lines yet. I have Mighty-Vac and speed bleeder and a helper (wife). Assuming only swapping MC and Lines and not touching Calipers/pad how long would you think it would take a brake-bleeding-newb? [I'd do the MC clean/rebuild inside on not count it on the project clock].

Caliper Rebuild: Not sure if I have to yet. How long to just rebuild the calipers? I know I'll have to re-bleed brakes and actually install the caliper.

Front Forks: I'd like to eventually by progressive springs. I already have the RED seals. Rough total time including taking apart, cleaning and reinstlling?

Rear Shocks: I know its only 2 bolts, but how do you deal with compression/decompression during assembly/removal?

Valve Check/Shim Replace/Gasket: Reading the tutorials, this seems like a semi-easy & quick task. If I install my new head gasket during the initial valve check, will there be any problem reusing the gasket after the shims arrive? How many times can you take off the cover w/o replacing the gasket, especially if you only check annually?

Engine Covers: If I drain oil for oil change how many of the engine side covers can I then take off for polishing/painting/wire brushing with out more/other oil leaking all over?

Carbs - On the bike adjusting: Once you've learned how to take off carbs and replace them, how long does it actually take to remove/reinstall for the syncing step required on the bike when you have to remove the carbs a few times?

Carbs in general: After all clean and bench sync is this something a newb should dedicate an entire day (ie Sunday) to the first time?

Oil change 30 min if the bolt isn't stuck?

Well that's all the major projects I can think of at the moment.

I'm not afraid to wrench, I've just never done it on an engine.

 

I have years in my bike, but there are still more experienced people that will reply

in reverse order
oil change - correct

carbs in gen - one half day With rebuild kits. without the kits they'll be on the bench until the parts come

carb sync, bench sync is done on bench. once you get the vacume gauge or make one - 1 hour w/ tank removal, IV bottle or tank on high shelf and remount tank

engine covers - take them off, no oil will fall

valve check - 2-4 hours to check, everything will remain open until the new shims come in the mail

rear shocks, no worries, the swing arm just swings

front forks, read my recent thread about the fork plug getting stuck, took 4 hours with visit to home depot and a friend, 2 hour set back

caliper rebuild - 1 hour each. no dilly dallying

brake line swap and bleed - 2 hours max

exhaust swap - the mufflers get stuck on GOOD. it took me days to get mine off with 2 bottles of propane to heat them up, eventually need a friend and a small sledge! lol. the front header gaskets are real easy, just remove the center bolt under the middle of the engine and nuts on the head

 

That's about right; I'll only add to or clarify the following:

Exhaust swap: Don't rush it, no sense breaking a stud.

Caliper, brake lines, etc. may take longer than expected but don't rush it or the caliper will hang up. CLEANING is the most important and tedious part of a caliper rebuild. DO IT ALL, do it right and take your time. It's the brakes and therefore your life in the balance.

Valve clearance check: With a YICS motor, the gasket and donuts are good for many re-uses once new ones have been installed. CLARIFICATION: It's the valve cover gasket, not the head gasket; and the interval is every 5000 miles, not necessarily every season. As far as time, once again don't rush.

Engine covers: The clutch cover can come off without losing oil, but only as long as the bike is on the sidestand. You should be OK on the other ones.

Carb removal/reinstallation: There should be no need to repeatedly remove/replace tha carbs; bench sync and float levels are done with the rack off; vacumm sync is done after it's been reinstalled. That's the whole point in doing it right, so you only have to do it once. No taking on and off unless you've missed something.

Rear shocks: When the bike is on the centerstand with the rear wheel slightly off the ground, the shocks are fully extended. Simply swap first one side and then the other to avoid having to deal with the weight of the wheel/swingarm assembly.

 

Thanks all.

I looked all 4 front brake pads on both bike. They all have a lot of life before they wear down to the bottom of the wear groove. as far as caliper looks spare bikes have more paint still on them.

I have new donuts and gasket. I have slow seapage so NEED to do eventually...

I have spare carbs so I hope to do it right!

Wife + me = saving for shocks

 

I hope you have good luck with the fuel levels, or that could eat into your carb time.

 

All of which means nothing if they are 30 years old. Same for the calipers, and simple rubber seals within; the ones the factory says have a two year life expectancy. Old pads need to be replaced, regardless of wear. They can crumble when hot...

If you run it as-is, sonner than later a caliper is going to start hanging up and dragging. Hope for your sake it doesn't spontaneously lock.

You keep talking about "doing it right" and then you tell us about all of your planned shortcuts.

You want to do it right? Then DO it right; and don't worry about how long it takes because it will take 4X longer than planned. Trying to hurry is where you start taking shortcuts and end up having to do the same "repair" three and four times over. I'm sure you've read the posts on brake bleeding trials and tribulations; it's something you want to do ONCE not twice or three times which is what you seem to be condemning yourself to.

Hurrying and shortcuts are not how to do it right.

 

I didn't think about pad age...

How much of a "shortcut" is redoing entire front brake system without replacing rotors? Already reaching $400 with ss lines and full caliper rebuild with new pads...

I know my life is worth more but my pockets are empty :-:-(

 

Rotors generally don't need to be replaced as long as:

-they're not deeply scored.
-they're within and not under the published minumum thickness spec for your bike.
-they're within spec as far as runout.

With only 19K on the bike, your stock rotors are likely fine. They can't be "turned" like a car; but they only need to be replaced if any of the above aren't met.

If they do need to be replaced, EBC's full floaters are like half what OEM costs if you could even find them. But you're probably fine, rotor-wise.

 

As others have said. Don't put a time limit on it.

If you are gonna do the front brakes, do it all and be done with it for a long time.
Pads are something like $15 a pair
SS braided lines are something like $100

Caliper kit is somewhere around $40

Master cylinder kit is about $15
While the front wheel is off, take a close look and feel how the wheel bearings roll. At least put some fresh grease in them.

Get the HIGH priority safety repairs done first, make it run as good as possible and then worry about stuff like progressive springs or shocks.
The old saying goes: Chrome won't get you home.

 

But if you did want to do rotors.....

ebay

Not sure what condition they are in or if the turbo rotors fit. But I would definitely replace the pads, even if they weren't that old. Spending $400 on good brakes for the front, so why not spend the extra $20 and make sure they work right.

 

Good points

Actually SS lines are over $200 with all 3 lines and new crush washers, banjos, etc...

Good idea about the front wheel bearings. I'll have to price those as well.

NOTE: I included Chacal's prices to show the front end job is not as cheap as some models with only one caliper. And my ride requires the more expensive caliper piston kit...

I'm not trying to nickle and dime my ride, but I only have a penny at the moment :cry:

Is there any way to visually tell how old pads/caliper parts might be?? I'm guessing no...

P.S. Chrome won't get me home but better suspension will support 500 lbs of 2 riders and empty touring package better and smoother.

 

Assume original on the brakes, at 19K any PO would have had no reason to replace yet.

 

are you dead set on a 3 line setup? i just did a 2 line setup, new everything for around 100

 

dont buy pre-made SS lines, make your own by buying the banjo bolts and long line that you'll cut to size. it's about 1/3rd the price

 

And completely NOT DoT approved, BTW. I personally prefer the peace of mind in using pre-configured, DOT APPROVED brake line assemblies.

 

never thought of that fitz. I can tell you this, when I assembled the fittings to my lines, they were so tight the fittings got HOT while turning them. I was impressed because I instantly knew the brake pressure wasn't busting through these things. I probably still would have bought them for a few reasons: I know bike mechanics who use them and never heard a bad story, I belong to at least 5 different bike forums and never heard bad things, custom bikes have no choice and it's not a negative story that I ever heard associated with custom bikes, and in general, I never heard a bad story about them from anyone anywhere. Beleive it or not bikes are my life, after work every day and every wekend. I race twice a month and travel in my camper doing it hanging with many folks in and from different places.

fitz I don't mean to take away from what you're saying, I just thought the discussion should have been elaborated on. I read a lot of one sentance opinions and often never see the rebutle.

After fitz's statement, I'm not promoting either (any more), I'm just putting my experiance out there

 

I will also chime in about making your own lines. It is a science, if you don't get the torque right, they will leak. DOT approval means the lines have been tested and shown to be safe. DITY lines are cheaper true but who has the correct tools and can swage the fittings correctly at home? DOT will NOT certify lines that are not swaged. On a car, if things don't quite work out, you have a cage around you. Not so on the bike which leads me to the point that it's better safe than sorry. I've built lines for my GTO (no problems there) and I've purchased lines for my VW (which leaked straight out of the package, thanks Neuspeed) but by far safer is buying the correct lines built by people who build brake lines.

 

My apologies. We've discussed this 'ad infinitum' on the forum before; I was just stating the opposite position when the "DIY" recommendation popped up. A quick forum search should turn up the many discussions.

Keep in mind, racing applications don't have anywhere near the "service life" that street bike parts do. I will continue to recommend the use of only properly "clocked" and swaged DoT-approved assemblies; for safety's sake.