Could I even tell?

Could I even feel a difference if I were to go one tooth down on my front sprocket and 1 or possibly 2 up on the rear? Would it be a big difference or not even worth the money? Going for more acceleration on my 1992 xj600 rather than top speed.

Thanks
-Josh

 

No need to change the front. 2 teeth up on the rear will give you a little more acceleration. If you do a lot of highway driving, a bigger rear will lower your fuel economy. If you do mostly city driving it would probably be a good performance improvement though.

 

Just curious, Why is there no need to change the front one tooth smaller? I feel like doing that would do more of a difference than 2 or three up in the back. I'm a noob so I am probably wrong.

 

The front is usually cheaper and ya don't usually have to mess with shortning you chain

 

one tooth on the front one is equivalent to 3-4 on the rear.

 

I'll bet once/if you get the bike running 100% you won't feel a need to re-gear.

 

"If" I get it running 100%? I'd say I got this thing at about 90% so far. It's an old bike, it might not have that 10% left in it bc it wasn't taken care of before me. I feel like I've done a lot so far, since the bike was in sh*t shape when I got it. I'm just trying to make it my own man.
Maybe you can reply to another thread I started on xj chat. Thats my last problem with its running and no one has replied. This is the reason I say it is missing that 10%. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31406.html

Thanks KRS14 thats what I needed to know.

and Thanks Jason that was my next question

 

Yes it's an old bike; I own a few of 'em. Including a couple of XJ550R Secas; both of which are now running 100%. It took some doing.

Both bikes will easily pull redline in all six gears; and run through first-third almost as fast as you can shift. "Forget" to shift and they'll pull PAST 10k RPM if you let them. No "hesitation" anywhere in the rev range; I can trickle along at 35mph in 5th and then just jump on it.

Your bike has 13K on it. Danger, Will Robinson!

Your initial valve clearance check was to have been at 3000 miles; and every 5000 miles thereafter. At 13K you are right on the edge of about to burn a valve if they've never been touched. That's job 1.

Your symptoms indicate a need for a full carb service: Pull them off, clean thoroughly, properly set float levels. Bench sync. Once back on the bike, then you do a running vacuum sync---

ONLY AFTER the valves are in spec, or you won't get the carbs sync'ed.

TRUST ME: Based on what you've done so far, the mileage on the bike, and the symptoms described in your other thread, your Seca is running at maybe75% of its potential. Maybe. The 550s are absolute screamers once properly recommissioned and tuned; the 600 should be no different but you've left a lot out. Re-gearing at this point is a waste of time and money, you have more important matters to attend to before you burn a valve.

 

13k but why would I pass red line at 9500. There isn't much power on these bikes past 8500 anyway.

Valve clearence check was done less than 2k miles ago. I have the paper work. The bike was sold to someone in 08 who just let it sit since. the paper work said it had 13,2xx miles on it when sold in 2008 when I bought it had 13,7xx.

Don't think the valves changed much from sitting still for nearly 4 years bud. theres a bit of history on it for ya.

It's not like it isn't on my to do list.

Listen man, I'm not trying to make any enemys on here. I'll take your advice on it. Thats why I asked, I'm an 18 year old kid still learning everything I can. You got plenty more experience than I do I'm sure.

all I ask is you don't try and change my mind on something -I- want to do to -MY- bike, and discourage me by say "if" I get it running 100%, sorry man but that kind of pissed me off.

 

Oh and I have cleaned (very well), set floats and bench synced them when I first got the bike.

 

"there isn't much power on these bikes past 8500"....Indicates you have NOT followed the advice many have given. Mine just gets happy around 6500-7000 and 8500 is not even peak horsepower yet.

A gear change is kind of a band aid approach. Of course you can do it, but we are just saying it's a waste.

What does your Valve check clearance paperwork say....or really say? Maybe it should say "We thought about checking the valves, but the mechanic was too lazy and simply took a break but we charged the you for the time we claimed he was checking the valves anyway and you have no easy way to verify that we are screwing you". There are so many stories about shops screwing customers that I don't trust any of them.
If you don't want to spend an hour to check your valves but would rather buy gears and a chain then so be it.

 

Every damn forum website is the same. I ask for advice and get smartass answers. What is so hard about saying "hey man check your valves before you tune your carbs."

I swear the more known people get on a website the more unfriendly they get. Like I said I'm still learning, Most learn from their mistakes but I try and use websites like these to not make the mistakes. You all were learning this stuff once too. I feel like I know more about this stuff then most kids my age do these days and I'm proud of that.

All I'm gonna say is thanks for the advice about the valves I'll check them asap. I just need to borrow my friends gapper. Like I said, It was already on my to do list. I suppose I'll just move it to the top of the list.

ps, mike, I don't plan on taking the bike to a shop. I want to do everything myself, Thats the only way to learn. Like I also said, I want it to be MY bike.

 

We are simply trying to give you the advice you requested.

You need a set of "feeler gauges". When I think of a "gapper" I think of a set of different diameter wires for spark plug gapping. They will not work.
A set of feeler gauges is about $8

I was not suggesting you planned on taking it to a shop. I was trying to say the paperwork indicating the valves were checked is worthless in my eyes.

 

Okay, I'd like to apologize to you also, I did to fitz in another thread. I don't want trouble on this site, Its the only thing that is helping me with my bike.

But yes thats what I meant, Feeler gauges, what mm size will I need to go to?
I think my friends go to .05mm - 1mm. will I need bigger?

I understand about the shop thing, It is so easy for them to say they did something but didn't.

 

You need to get your hands on a service manual if you don't have one. I don't know what your valve clearance should be. The clearances will change as the engine warms up which CAN make it run completely different hot than cool.

Did you check your throttle shaft seals? When you did the vacuum sync, did it behave and stabilize very well or was it inconsistent? FLoat levels all good with the clear tube method? (I think that's a requirement on the '92 but not sure)

The way it's running says you still have carb gremlins. Sometimes they are hard to nail down and taking short cuts with ANY part of the procedure lets them live....until you pull the carbs again, and again, and again.
Mine purrs like a kitty cat now and I only took the carbs off 7 or 8 times! SERIOUSLY. 8O

 

And I'd just like to add that we aren't trying to be smartasses, and we may come across as a little harsh to the newer members, but it's only because we care.

We care about our XJs
We care about YOUR XJ.
And most of all, we care about your SAFETY!

Believe me, I was a new guy too, and thought some of the same things, but once you spend even a little time on here you'll get it.

Everything we suggest, from doing your valve clearances and cleaning your carbs, to recommending tires and headlights, we do with your safety in mind. Keeping another XJ rider safe is our purpose, keeping another XJ bike on the road is our bonus. That's why we are so adamant with our advice.

Hope you get her running right real soon, they are a blast.

 

So when doing the check, does the bike need to be cool?
My next paycheck will be going torwards everything I need to do. Tools and what not, so I'll try and find a manual also.

I havn't done the vacuume sync yet, I'm waiting on that for after the valves. But I've done the floats and all with the clear tube.

Yeah I have some stuff to work out with the title so I won't be driving it for a little anyways. I guess I have time to take them off again for another cleaning.

and thanks tskaz, I guess I am starting to learn that. I wasn't looking at it the way you guys do. But I get it. Thanks