Snapped header bolt/stud

Yes I have broken the stud out of the head that the header bolts onto. There is some thread left as it didn't snap right off but the length is too short to screw down the header.

Is there any easy cheap fix?

If I didn't get frustrated enough by trying to get the dam things on I had to go and stuff it right up.

 

some photos to help show what has happened.

getting the pipes back on was all I need to do after slight mods.

Had planned a bit of a ride tomorrow as the weather is awesome too.

 

I put on some led indicators and tail/brake light, sprayed most of it black and trimmed down the seat.

 

If you heat the area around the broken stud carefully with a propane torch and then grasp it firmly with a pair of vice-grips, you should be able to unscrew it easily. Be sure to give the new stud a dab of anti-sieze upon installation.

 

Bigfitz

I have been spraying it with wd40 every couple of hours now for the last 6hrs. Just had a crack at it with the vice grips with virtually no gap when closed. Just started to chew up the stud.

Going to get propane/butane torch but what sort of heat are we talking? Should i have it glowing red or just hit it for 1-2 min?

 

Butane torch did the trick.

Thanks Mate, now just have to wiggle and jiggle the damn exhaust system back on. I'm sure the is an easy way i might find out one day.

 

Just fixed mine 80 xj650 with 3 bolts sheared off,if you have access to a welder,weld a nut on to the bolt,whatever size you want,get enough material wlded to it,and then grab a socket wrench...it worked fantastic...dont try a EZ out..they suck ass.

 

Rock <--- YOU ---> Hard Place.

If it's SEIZED, ... "Chemically speaking" ... It's like welded; inside.

I'd cut the Fragment a little shorter and Drill a Tiny Hole right at the Threads.
Where the OD of the Stud meets the ID of the Head.
Drill a small hole to let you apply a penetrating oil with a Precision Oiler IN the Hole WHILE heating it.

Then, weld a Nut on it and offer thanks to your Higher Power.

 

What worked for me was 2 nuts that are m6 with 1.0 pitch. You thread both of the nuts on the remaining stud. Then you tighten the nuts against one another. Put a open end wrench on the inner and carefully turn. I also use a long handled open wrench so I get more torque on the stud. I have also used a set of socket like stud removers. They worked well to. I like the nuts method and its much cheaper.

 

I like the that two opposing Hex Nuts to remove a Stud ... method.

I add two greased stainless washers to make undoing the Nuts after removing the Stud a bit less of a struggle.

 

Longer Shocks

Got the stud out by using heat and wd40. Spraying after minute or so of heat and repeating a few times. My vice grips were pretty old so used the 2 nut trick. I was so surprised how easy it was to get out after struggling with just the vice grips. If it hadn't been for the helpful people on this site I wouldn't learned the little things that can make a big difference when new to fooling around with bikes.

Have made a few changes to the stock xj650 but thinking of raising it rather than lowering it like a lot of people are doing. Love to some some photos and specs of some bikes that have had longer shocks put on to help determine what size and type of shock to use.

 

current koni shocks

 

Off kilter a little bit... I got my broken ones out... trying to find new studs.. is 6 x 1.0 the thread size?