Valve-carb-bearings question

Hi!
2 littles questions:
After cleaning up my carbs and a bench sync and a 'gage' synch, the bike runs good but the rpm does not come down. The only way to lower the rpm is to put it in first gear, release the clutch a bit and then, the rpm comes back down again and stays down. But ones i give it a bit of gas, the rpm stays high.
It accelerate just fine.

I checked for air leakage with wd40, but nothing...
Could bad valves adjustment be the reason for my never ending problem?

Another questions for you guys, when i turn the wheel, i feel like a notch in the handlebar. I feel like there is a small resistance to turn the wheel just a bit. When i turn the wheel left to right and back, i feel a notch in the middle position. I need to change the bearings?

Thanks a lot!

 

you need to do a sync while it's running and the notch you feel means you need steering head bearings

 

Answer to question #1 - Yes. And no. Yes you should do a valve check/adjustment before syncing the carbs. But no, it's probably not what's causing the high RPM.

Do the valve adjust first then recheck the sync. If it still acts up check the throttle cable and enrichment circuit cable routing. Still acts up after that then something isn't right in the carbs.

Short answer to question #2 - YUP! Chances are they are original bearings and if there is a catch ANYWHERE in the steering head then you will want to replace the bearings.

 

The carbs are running lean...chances are, on the pilot circuit if it's doing it after the engine is warm. That's why it's "hanging".

The guys are right about the head bearings...you probably have a flat spot right at the "straight ahead" position, right?

I went searching for balls for one of my H2's over the weekend. I don't want to put in tapered bearings even though they are better since this is a correct original. It's a bi**h to find my balls! I saw some recently and thought about buying them but didn't. Guess who is kicking themselves now?

jeff

 

2 questions:
Is it a big job to change the bearings?
When the carbs are running lean, how do i cure this?
Thanks again!

 

Just a quick question... when you cleaned the carbs, did you do the "clunk test?" If the slides are slow to drop, it can cause high idle speeds.

 

No, it's not that big a deal to change steering head bearings; however it is a bit of a Royal Pain.

Re: Carbs. You weren't paying attention. GET THE VALVES IN SPEC then re-sync (running vacuum sync.) THEN if it continues to have issues, suspect a vacuum leak (or not completely clean carbs.)

Before the carbs went back on-- In addition to a bench sync, the float levels should have been adjusted using fuel and the clear tube method. Did you set the floats? How?

IN ORDER:

-Valves in spec.
-Bench sync.
-Floats set and confirmed.
-Running vac sync.
-Fine tune mixtures.

If you skip any or leave anything out, you'll be at this a while.

 

To change the bearings, do i need to remove the front wheel and brakes? I guess so.... Anything else?

Thanks!

 

I just changed those bearings. I removed the tank, front wheel and fender. I then took off the caliper and zip tied it up to the crash bar on that side. The plastic Yamaha emblem between the forks had to come off as well as the bolt holding the brake line in place behind said emblem. I unbolted the turn signals and zip tied them to the headlight bracket. Remove both fork tubes. I took off the bottom mounting bolt for the head light and only loosened the top two. This allowed me to hang the handle bars, light, guages, turn signals, from one of the cross beams in my garage using a few ratcheting tie downs. This left enough room to work on the bearings. I knocked the old races out of the frame with a long punch. The one pressed on the tripple clamp was tapped off with a small punch while being held in a bench vise. The new one needed to go in a press to be put on. The lower one going back into the frame needs a bushing to reach up there while you easily tap it in with a hammer. The top one was covered with a flat piece of steel to get it in straight and tapped in with a hammer.

This was for a 650 Maxim with everything stock. The bearing race had the smallest set of dents in it where each ball sat while going straight. I had to wipe the grease off of it to see the dents. I would have never thought that little bit of damage would have caused such a problem with the steering. I was expecting damaged/missing balls and elongated troughs in the races.

I covered the engine with big rags so any ball bearings would not get lost on the engine and had an empty 30 pack beer box to catch and falling bearings. None fell for me but I read this might cause problems later so I went in prepared.

 

Just my 2 cents here but once I had pulled the carbs and I had the same issue with the idle however it was a pinched throttle cable and throttle adjustment. May want to take your tank off and make sure it isn't binding up somewhere and also set the throttle so that it has a tiny bit of play before acceleration. Sometimes these are a little tight. I lie just a hair of play because if it does bind up somehow you want to have that play in it so it doesn't take off on you. Just something else to consider.

 

Just a couple tips for Headset Bearing work.

A moderately Strong Magnet will help you manage collecting the Old Bearings.

Having a Quality, Hardened, 9-Inch "Line-up Tool" will help punch-out the Races.

Having a Duel-ended, ... Hard rubber -|- Hard Plastic Hammer is a nice tool to have to help start and seat the New Races.