Need help adjusting or figuring out if whats up with clutch.

85 maxim xj700N, clutch seems to be loose, i mean the clutch itself does slip under load, just it when in gear the clutch does grab until the the lever nearly extended out, i have posted a question on this but got a simple referral to adjusting the clutch cable. i have did this numerous times and wondering if the clutch basket needs replacing. please help me out for i really would like to get this bike operating correctly.

 

If you've made all the reg adj and it still slips, then pull the
cover and check the plates, measure the springs, or just
replace.

What type of oil are you using? Oils containing "Friction Modifiers"
and some synthetics will cause the clutch to slip.

 

Any oil for automotive use will affect these clutches. When I bought my Maxim in 81, the dealer warned me about automotive oils. I was told the effects may not be immediate, but over time the clutch would suffer. I was told by others that was just hype to get me to buy my oil from the dealer. I used automotive oil for a few changes with no ill affects, but switched to motorcycle oil after researching the topic. The dealer was correct and I really should have listened. Todays automotive oils are even more slippery to reduce friction and improve mileage in cars. Friction reduction and clutches are really not compatible.

Received the same advice when I bought the Venture last year. Use motorcyle oil for transmission and crankcase combination.

 

Clutches 101 here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

Although "specific" to the smaller-displacement bikes, the info in the article pertains to your clutch too; you just don't have the tabbed plain plates or "clutch boss spring" to worry about.

The basket and/or hub would only need to be replaced if they have "divots" worn in them from the plates.

Your symptom could be caused by:
-a worn out clutch;
-the throwout lever needs to be repositioned (and cable then readjusted
-an internally binding/failing or seriously worn out cable.
(The wrong oil can make the clutch slip but it won't cause what you're describing.)

A "basic" (assuming hub and basket OK) clutch rebuild consists of friction plates and springs; and maybe plain plates depending on their condition.

 

Im curious how many miles are on your bike. I would bet that the clutch has been replaced but probably done incorrectly. Fitz has the info to get in there and check it out. My clutch was slipping when the power band kicked in.
I checked mine (I was prepared to go in with both barrels blazing) but, everything was brand new but they used the original springs which were shot.

These are the 'OLD" plates and clutches.

 

i understand about the oil, this is not the case of a slipping clutch, if it was that i am fully capable and aware of taking care the clutch basket and the plates, my question as BIGFITZ was kindly to point out, read what i was trying to say, the clutch is fine, its just engage from the lever when its near extended out.. i have disconnected the cable and reset the lashing and its still doing it, now i can ride it like this but just a lil weird having it pull from a nearly fully extended lever. if your as puzzled as i am then its will have to stay like that.

 

for reference what is the tension springs needed length or how to tell if they need to be changed.. does chacal sell a clutch kit with springs and bolts

 

Free length is indeed how you tell if they need to be changed or not; but I don't have the length specs for your bike.

Chacal does carry the parts.

You might want to consider a cable too; if yours is fraying inside, it might be getting "springy" (which is a sign of impending failure.)

 

so true Fitz.. i had a guy at lunch offer me a 82 virago with kjs intake and single hitachi carb and a 84 shadow to trade for my maxim, told him i rather just buy his shadow and he keep the virago.. what you think.. virago idles rough and he says carb needs rejetting cuz running lean and shadow needs to get running has good compression but never heard it run.

 

I'd avoid the Virago, they have a known issue with starters that there is no fixing. The Shadow on the other hand is a great bike but I'd be hard pressed to trade out from an XJ.
My two cents.

 

what was with the starter issue, dont understand what made a problem that could not be fixed? please shine some light on this.... was it faulty wiring. bad starters in general, something has and had to be replaced to correct the problem.

 

It had to do with the starter clutch and the way a V-Twin will kick on one CYL but not start, disengaging, then violently re-engaging the starter.
My brother had one. His never broke, but sounded HORRIBLE every time he started up.

ESMITHERS - from reading your description it does sound like you have your clutch set too far "out" at the lever, or your cable is messing with you.

 

It's not the starter itself, it's the starter "clutch" which like the XJ's is buried in the motor.

The Virago used the same design for the starter clutch that the XJs do; but because it's a V-Twin, it tends to "kick back" (whereas the fours don't.) This will crack the outer sprag clutch housing at the roller grooves. The problem is, even if you go to all the trouble to split the cases and fix it, it will eventually just happen again.

 

ahh okay i understand what you mean..

TIMEtoRIDE- i have set that cable, many times its either to loose and does even allow full disengage of clutch rings or its too much and the bike has a major slipping problem.. i have it so as soon as pull the clutch it starts to disengage the clutch.

 

Do you by chance have the "bottom" lever by the clutch basket in the wrong position, like angled too far back, compromising your leverage?? Can you post-up a pic, or compare to other people's correctly oriented lever??