shifter forks

i don't think this is what it should look like

 

I'd say that one is trashed, probably ruined the gear also.

 

oh yea, the gear is shot. starts at the edge a nice blue/purple color then blue then a light tan and nice jaggy ruff edges.
it's a wonder it worked as well as it did

 

You young hoons will learn not to thrash your bikes the hard way :lol:

 

i imagine these will be replaced with the spares you purchased from me? thanks again Polock and good luck

 

Eeek! Pull your mains and cams asap and look for trashed bearings...all that metal went somewhere! I hope you missed a bullet here amigo.

 

Loose metal filings would trash an oil pump - then be collected in the filter and would get no further unless the bypass spring/plunger was faulty.

 

I agree with you Time, but the mains and cam bearings are the final customer. I'd want to know if they had anything to say... just in case. If they aren't messed up, you know it didn't make it past the filter. And knowing would bring me a great deal of peace of mind.

 

the way i look at it is, this wasn't a catastrophic failure, i think from the looks of the gear it's been a ongoing thing for awhile so rather than large chunks, tiny specks have been wearing off.
the cam bearings looked ok last time i had them out and when the cases come apart you see half the mains and they look good.
the concern now is the chips from drilling the screws on the middle drive gear and how the heck do you get a new starter chain guide back in without pulling the crank out? the side tab was broke off mine and the guide broke in two as soon as i touched it, soon to break again before it was out

 

You don't?

It's endless, and has to wrap around the crank. Unless I'm missing something real basic, it looks to me like you need to at least lift the crank up, but you would still need two con-rods disconnected to finagle the chain into position.

Correct me if I'm wrong; I'm going by the manual. I haven't split an XJs cases--yet.

 

starter chain GUIDE

 

The oil drain plug is magnetic, right, what did that sucker look like, that's where the heavy metal particulants should end up.

 

never noticed anything on the magnet that seemed unusual, maybe some of that stuff that's finer than dust, no chunks

 

Polock,
Since I didn't want to strip the top end while I was doing the shift forks and had a busted starter chain guide too I slipped another starter chain guide in under the crank by,
1. Taking out the cam chain tensioner
2. Rotating the crank till there was cam chain slack on both sides of crank.
3. Jiggle the crank(pistons still attached) up by about 10mm
4. Slip, push and poke that swine of a thing in (after straightening the front mount hole a bit and bending it back to the 90degree when its in place)
5. Squirt a bunch of motor oil on the bearing and crank.
6. Make sure the seals are good on the ends of the crank.
7. Gently push the crank back into the bearings
8. Pop the cam chain tensioner back in.

Everything seems to work, so far, although no real stress has been put on the engine apart from tuning on the centre stand.

Hope that helps and ... doesn't get me into trouble!

Good luck!

 

i was thinking it tapped out easily so maybe a little grinding might let it go right in, i'll practice on the old one

 

Like cds1984 I was able to get that chain guide in without removing the crankshaft. I had a buddy pulling and wiggling hard from the front while I was pushing hard from the rear. I think I had to bend the front tab slightly. It is the small ridges cast on the bottom of the engine casing that are holding it back. Those ridges fit the "teeth" on the bottom of the chain guide to help hold it and adsorb vibration. But you can get it over. Then, POP, it goes over and is then easily positioned.

One warning though. When mine suddenly popped over that biggest ridge, which is right under the crank, my hand rammed forward into the razor sharp edges of the bearing shells of the middle input gear. Deep razor fine cut that took a long time to heal.