Oil filter assembly leaking

I changed my oil today (81 XJ650 Maxim). Before I started it looked like it was leaking some oil from the engine filter assembly. Well I figured, the new gaskets would fix that up. I followed all directions and torque recomendations and when I ran the engine, it was dripping oil from the oil filter assembly steadily with the engine running and slowly with it off. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (This was not the first time I changed oil, but the first time where the filter was not a screw on one).

 

Was the washer that goes on top of the spring present? It's often missing.

Any chance that the big O-ring slipped out of place when installing the cover?

Otherwise, I wonder whether a PO overtorqued the bolt and maybe distorted the cover....

It's a bit late now, but one thing you could look into are the aftermarket screw-on filter adapters for XJ's. http://plan9.dnsalias.org:90/xj/products/adapter.html

 

Cover should be fine they might have over torqued it and flattened the big oring or didn't put oil on the small one and spinning the nut dry cut it. Since the housings are aluminum they will brake before distorting. Loosen it back up and check make sure no dirt or anything is on the oring maybe flip the oring. I am sure you know to wipe a little oil on both orings

 

Is the washer #7 in this diagram. If it is, it was not there. Will that fix the problem? Can you tell me the size of the washer?

Also, I didn't take the green section from the diagram apart, but I did install gasket number 5. I also installed the other gasket. I don't think it slipped. I plan on taking the whole thing apart again and changing the oil again. I would just appreciate any advice before I do it.

Also, after an hour of sitting, there was no oil in the pan under the bike, but the filter assembly did have oil on it.

And while playing with this, I ran the battery dead. Do I hve to disconnect the battery to charge it. I thought I read somewhere that I should or the electrical system might get fried. I have never disconnected a battery in any other vehicle to charge it before.

Thanks.

 

I put oil on bothe orings. I will flip the big one when I redo this. I also plan on thouroughly cleang the inside and outside of evreything. I did clean all of the insides already.

 

I'd take the battery out to charge it if I were you. One reason is to check the electrolyte level in the battery to make sure you have not boiled one dry. The other is that you will need to disconnect the leads to prevent a surge that could fry some of the electronics on the bike. Also, it does not happen very often but a battery does have the potential to explode when being charged and I'd rather have it happen on a work bench or garage floor than in the holder on my bike.
Don't use an automotive charger either, get something like a "Battery Tender" to charge it up, it's safer too.

 

In answer to your question, washer #7 is paper-thin and about 22mm or so in diameter; big enough to fit over the bolt. It's about the size of the rubber rings on the filter itself. It's not super-critical; it does keep the spring from digging into the rubber grommet on the filter is all. It often got thrown away; so far none of my XJs has had one by the time I got it.

I'm betting the BIG o-ring (#6) slipped out of place and got pinched.

 

You don't have to change the oil just add a little the pan is lower then the filter

 

Ok Thanks. I was thinking that. I wanted to take it apart right then, but I didn't want to find out that I didn't have enough oil.

Also, I didn't pull the plug under the transmission. Anyone have a picture of where it is. I don't know if I would pull it anyway. I don't want another problem. My bike is so low to the ground, Its tough to see anything under there.

 

I continue to be open to any other suggestions before I get back into this. I have a feeling that it was doing this before and I didn't notice, because it only seems to be driiping a lot when it is idling. There is still no puddle in the drip pan after sitting for several hours.

 

I have this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ckType=L23
You don't think the 2 amp trickle charge would be good?

 

2.5liters with a filter change.

Are you referring to the Middle gear plug or the oil drain bolt?

The middle gear plug isn't recommended for removal by a novice. It could cause a lot of headaches.

The oil drain bolt is directly in the center on the front lower of the engine.

 

I didn't pull the middle gear plug.

 

The middle gear plug isn't recommended for removal by a mortal.

It could cause a lot of headaches.
And, having to remove the exhaust system, tons of other stuff (possibly removing the engine), inverting the Bike to drill the under-case and dealing with all the crap you have to do to save your bike from leaking oil all over creation.

 

I myself would not use it, simply because IT decides what type of charge your battery gets. If it senses that your battery is completely flat it may just decide to send the ten amp charge into the battery. This is what I would recommend http://batterytender.com/battery-tender ... 1-25a.html Then you can also use it in the off season to maintain your battery.

 

I can set it to the 2 amp mode. The automatic function is that it shuts off when the battery is fully charged. The shut off mode is the whole reason I bought it.

By the way, Chacal mentioned that the tab at the 12'oclock position of the filter assembly should rest against a stop. I didn't notice this stop, so this may be my whole issue. I will look into this. I probably won't get back into this until wednesday.

 

There's the possibility you need to Lube the Sufaces, ... after you check them for and imperfection.

Smear the Domes O-ring Channel with Oil.
Smear the Mating Surface on the Sump with Oil.

This will prevent the O-ring from Stretching when you torque the Bolt.
If the Surface is Clean, ... there is a chance that the O-ring will Pull rather than flatten-out.

At this juncture, ... I'd be replacing the O-ring, anyway ... as a Prime Suspect of why the Joint is leaking.

You can get a Set of O-rings in the Box with a FRAM Filter. You get A Filter and Free O-rings ...
But, because the O-rings are so expensive at the Dealer, ... I like to say:

"You get BOTH O-rings and a free filter."

 

OK, sounds good. When I clicked on the link in the original post and read the specs I didn't see anything about being able to select the charging mode, hence my comment on the charger choosing the charge rate. So if you can lock it in to the 2 amp mode then it should be fine, and with the other apps for boosting a battery, well that may come in handy in New Yawk! :wink: :wink:
But I'll still stick with the "Battery Tender" technology for maintaining a battery over the winter months. I put my Bandit away in late Oct-Nov last year, did the fuel treatment and went out and started it til it reached operating temps about once a month in a heated garage (50-60 degrees) and come spring time it started like a champ.
But that just how I do it and if other people have different methods post em up so we can get a cross reference of how you'd do it.

 

Especially if the tab ended up ON a "stop" (abbreviated fins.) That would prevent it from seating straight.

Once you take it back apart, you need to carefully inspect the oil filter housing for cracks, obvious distortion or imperfections in the o-ring groove.

Set it on a plate of glass and ensure the mating surface is flat. Look for cracks.

 

I think I fixed the problem. I took it apart and checked and cleaned everything. Then put it back together. Then it was leaking like crazy. I took it apart agian and noticed that the plate that the cover screws into was not seated properly to what is behind it. I cleaned that seated it properly and put everything back together. I ran the engine for a few seconds, and it didn't leak. I will run it longer when I get some more oil. I didn't want to chance that there may not have been enough ouil in the engine.

By the way PO painted over the low and full lines by the oil window. Can any one show me a drawing or diagram of where the lines should be. He also painted right over the window for the brake fluid. I scraped that off.

 

With the bike on the centerstand, don't worry about the marks. You want just a "bubble" showing at the top, which is about a 200CC-300CC overfill to keep the oil level sensor happy under accleration.

Check the level on the centerstand, when the bike has been OFF for at least 10 minutes to allow all the oil to drain back down into the sump. If the bike has no centerstand, have someone hold it vertical.

The "bubble" is your insurance against petcock and/or float issues. If one day the bubble has disappeared, you know you need to investigate.

 

Also, the battery was dry. I filled each channel with distilled water and charged it with that charger. It worked like a charm. When I purchased the bike, it wasn't holding a charge a idle. I bike mechanic who was visiting me showed me how to adjust the idle so it stayed over 12 volts when in idle and up over 14 when reving. I don't remember seeing that the acid level was low. It must have been. I'll have to check the levels tomorrow to make sure there isn't a leak.

 

That is where I was keeping it. I was wondering what the low level mark is to be safe. (Just in case this leak sticks around).

 

The bike shouldn't be charging the battery at idle, which should be 1050rpm. The charging system doesn't really "kick in" until above about 2200rpm and makes full output above 3000rpm.

These bikes are hard on batteries; you need to watch the fluid level weekly if you ride a lot.

 

The idea of correcting the idle was so that it wasn't draining the battery dead at idle while warming up. It was at about 10 volts at idle. I'll keep an eye on the fluid level.

 

Sounds like another win for a new XJ'r. Congrats on getting it sorted. You may be lucky with the battery with the re-filling with distilled water, but if the whole thing was dry watch for the case on the battery that it doesn't look, hmmmm, swelled or distorted. Like a new battery shape should have nice flat surfaces on all four sides and on the bottom, well if they are bowed out then you could have issues with the plates breaking down. I'd suggest a few short rides with a chase car maybe when you get it going proper, just so you don't end up miles from home with a F**ked up battery.
Just sayin'.

 

T battery aappeared to be in good shape. I will keep an eye on it.

 

Just one more note about the battery, when filling an empty battery make sure you don't fill it to the "FULL" line marked on the side. Make sure it's just below the level line. As a battery charges, the electrolytes will expand and you could potentially end up withan overfilled battery. Make sure to check the levels after the charging is complete and that your overflow tube is attached to the battery and routed properly between the frame rails so that it exits under the bike. Nothing worse for paint or chrome that battery acid.

 

I topped off the oil in my bike and started the engine up and its dripping again. I am going to take it apart tomorrow and take some pictures of the parts for Chacal. He says there could be a bolt missing form the oil cooler plate. I don't know if that will fix it. I will clean everything up carfully, re-oil all seals, buy a washer to fit where the washer goes between the spring and filter, oil all the gaskets and try again. I really wanted to go for a ride on my birthday tomorrow. Hopefully this will do it. I don't know what the problem is. I never had so much trouble with an oil change in my life. I didn't even try the other drain bolt that everyone warned against. You may want to buy stock in Castrol. I'm making them rich.

 

Just for the hell of it, can you post up some pics so that we can see the parts and where the leak is coming from? Might be a big help in identifying the issue.

 

The pictures and diagram are below. I have this under semi-control now. It is slightly leaking from between the oil cooler plate and the engine. The O ring between there was a little pitted. I cleaned everything up carefully and turned that O ring over. It was slightly leaking when the engine warmed up with the choke open. When I closed the choke I didn't notice it. I took it for a 2 mile drive. When I parked it there were 2 quick tiny drips and no more. Oil level was identical to when I left. The O ring seems to be the same size as the one for the oil filter. I am going to keep an eye on it. And if I seem to be losing a lot of oil, I'll replace that O ring. I will be directing Chacal to these images to see if I really need that part.

By the way would a number 8 hardened steel washer be good for the missing washer between the spring and the filter. Its the only one I could find with a 3/4 inch hole.






Most of the pictures of of the oil cooler assembley so someone can tell me if it is stock and if there is a nut missing. Thanks to everyone.

 

By gasket did you mean 'O'ring ? it's good to replace these when you change out the filter.

 

Yes I do mean O rings and I do change the O rings. This is an additional O ring. On the other side of the oil cooler. It is the same size as the oil filter one. Does anyone have a good source for these so I don't have to stock up on filters just to get the extra O rings?

 

XJ4Ever.

chacal.

XJ4Ever.

He also has the missing washer; don't use a "hardware store" washer, like I said before the original is paper thin. Just do without until you get the correct one, install it on the next oil change.

That's an aftermarket oil cooler flange, the factory Yamaha part is different. It was made to "sandwich in" (just like the factory one, actually) and does take the same o-ring.