help with vacuum leaks? high idle

in attempts not to bore you all to death, i have spared you vital info. i replaced the rear brake about 3 months ago, i hate relying on it, believe me, i have been riding for about 2 years total on the road, month to month. i dont enjoy having my main brake. please, help me, i have the screws, i have everything, a soldering iron. all i need is some electrical clips.
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Im one stupid screw away from relieving all your worries until i can fix this fuse box problem.

Every afternoon is the scariest ride to work ever, but on my way home, im happy in that i know that i have worked on enough of the bike that i trust it to as much of a failure as my perfect gs1000.

I would still appreciate any input on the 2 problems at hand, please dont worry to give me grief. i need answers 8)

 

Driving with no front brakes is crazy, thank god you don't live in CO....

 

Snowy, you are cruzin' for a brusin' at this rate. Fitz is righ on the money. Sure, you need to make it to work, we all do (most anyway). What you are also failing to account for is the hazard that YOU pose to the general public (given your deathwish to keep riding dispite lack of proper safety systems). You want to off yourself, I'd prefer you didn't but I also would hate to hear about how you caused permanent scars on the mind of someone else's loved one in your haste to win the Darwin awards.
Get real, fix the bike right, ride the bus and quit excusing away poor judgement. Your parents will appreciate it as will the rest of us.
'90 VW, 1.8 or 2.0L? Blown head is usually a hint that the radiator is shot and/or the water pump is dead. I've seen loads of these cars with the same problem. Boils down (no pun intended) to lack of proper care and using tap water for the radiator fluid. Good luck with that effort, 1800RADIATOR. Reasonably priced radiators and heater cores delivered to your door. I was quite pleased with the service.

 

Amen. I'm not usually that "discouraging" but in this particular case...

The bike needs to be taken off the road altogether until the brakes are FIXED. BOTH brakes. Then go ahead and mess with the electrics, carbs, whatever's necessary.

But PARK IT until you fix the front brakes. Seriously. That's the ONLY advice I can offer at this point.

 

fine, i ride the bus now to work every day, one road, an hour and 20 minutes one way.

the bike is still sitting,

the brake caliper was rebuilt recently, i have new brake fluid ready for install.

new brake pads, everything. i need to know how to get a destroyed bit out of a destroyed screw so i can try again, and do this ten minute job i had intensions on 4 months ago..

thanks again for your help


EDIT: got the head off the stud with a new set of grabbits and a torch. brakes are back.

thank you for all of your help.

 

Did you replace the 28 year old lines and rebuild the master cylinder as well? You can't be "shortcutting" on brakes, dude. For real.

Fix the VeeDub. You're gonna have to park the bike a few more times if you want to get it genuinely reliable.

(I'm a VW guy, too BTW; '08 Wabbit 2.5L 5-cyl with a 5-speed stick.)

Buses suck; but it's better than becoming a vegetable (or a statistic.) You need a re-think on your mortality.

 

VW guy here too, although not currently. I've built several watercooled rides (owned one truck that would pull 90mph in second!). I agree with Fitz, you are best served getting the Dub rolling so you have a parts getter. Sing out with questions, we'll get you through it. You can save up the dough in the mean time and get that brake system knocked out. All will be well in time.

 

So i filled the reservoir with fluid and bled my brake till there was no air coming out anymore. But the brake lever is as spongy as with no fluid. and the brake pad are not seated up against the rotor.

is it possible that the piston is still partially frozen in place or what else could be the issue?


A much more serious issue here is still my high idle.

 

Hmmm???

 

Most likely you still have a huge air bubble trapped in the caliper. PITB but it is all to common. If you can move the piston with a bit of compressed air, it isn't the piston.
As for the air/fuel screw seals, you will need to carefully drill a small hole in the middle of each seal plug, screw a small screw into it, grab the head of the screw with some pliers and pull them out. Be SUPER careful you don't knacker up the air/fuel screw head under the seals, it isn't too far below the seal.

 

I will rebuild the master cylinder and fix the brake line before i do anything else.

Here is whats left of the brass plug. someone destroyed it trying to remove the thing and now i can not figure out how to remove it.

 

Take a tap and thread it. Screw a matching screw in and pop that sucker out.

 

Alright, i finally moved to tacoma and i even have a garage!!

Edit: after further examination, a tap will simply not work for this application. the amount of brass is simply too shallow for a tap. and the amount of brass material left clinging to the wall is jagged and not present the entire way around the fuel screw. I think im going to just buy several flat screws and wedge them all in there till one is soo tight that i can pull out the brass. or destroy enough of it that the fuel screw works.

 

Just unplug the plugs from the TCI unit for your compression test.